I know I have a small coolant leak somewhere near the alternator (underneath) on. 2010 V6 xlt. It leaks down onto the frame and steering rack. I just can’t follow it so see where it comes from. I suppose it could be a head gasket but is there something up underneath all that mess that would be a usual suspect.? Water pump, thermostat etc. Any insight would be great. Its just too small a leak to see without ripping into it. Thanks

 

How many miles on your 2010?
The black plastic thermostat housing sets behind the idler pulley as is a common failure item.
You can remove the decorative cover which has 4.0l SOHC molded into it (3 screws) for a clearer look.
Metal replacements are available if yours failed.
Hoses and gaskets are involved so look around.

Water pumps do fail and weep. Check how much the pump's shaft wobbles.
I've no familiarity with head-to-block leaks.

 

I have 114,000 miles on it. Runs pretty well, but the coolant has gotten me bugged. So I am the type of guy who when does things once, you know as well as i am in here I might as well xxxx

So with that many miles would you change the water pump, t stat, goose neck, idler pulley, and the other idler, well serpentine too. I do all my own work so parts while costly, taking things apart twice is tough on me. Thanks again

 

^+ on George's comments.

Yep, could be the Notorious JunkPlastic ThermoStatHousing (Aluminum Replacement Strongly Recommended),
Notorious JunkPlastic HeaterControlValve, WaterPump, HeaterHose, LooseClamp, Notorious PlasticTanked Radiator,...
Best to crawl under & take a close look with a good work light; try to trace coolant trail upward\upwind to the leak source.

At 100k+ Miles, yep its time for a full CoolantSystem service; best done every 33kMiles\4Yrs:
* Drain+Flush
* new Belt+Hoses+Clamps
* inspect WaterPump+PlasticFan+FanClutch, renew as needed
* new ThermoStat & upgrade to Aluminum ThermoStatHousing
* new RadiatorCap
* inspect Radiator for blockage & cracked tanks, renew as needed
* inspect HeaterControlValv for cracks\leaks, renew as needed, upgrade to traditional Metal version if possible.
* backflush HeaterCore, inspect for blockage, renew as needed, reverse HeaterHose connections
* new Coolant, burp+topoff as needed

While TStatHousing is out of the way, consider renewing the OilPressurized TimingTensioners; both LeftFront+RightRear Tensioners should be renewed every 100kMiles\12Yrs.

 

Thanks, the coolant leak seems to be from the gasket on the water pump, which is turn leaks onto the oil pan. All hard to see. So I guess its a water pump, tensioner, idler, serpentine belt, water pump housing, some hoses and I guess I will look into the timing chaing tensioners. I guess in for a penny in for a pound. And I said I was done working on vehicles

 

All fixed now. New water pump, aluminum T stat housing with Tstat, new belt, new idler pulley, new tensioner, new temp sender. A lot of these came in a kit so was pretty straightforward. Took me about 5 hours from start to finish, was cold out!!!! By myself so pretty doable. Some very tight things though. I did loosen the alternator to give me a little wiggle room. Also took off the Air metering plastic and the intake duct. Don't forget to take off the fan, that was the biggest pain. I suggest buying all new clamps and getting rid of those OEM ones!. I did buy 5/8 heater hose and replaced most that way. The one you have to get either with the kit, from Ford or use the old one is the bent one coming from the water pump to the T stat housing. Its a bear to get on so I suggest a new one so you only do this once. Take care all and thanks for the advice