awsome so are you gonna test it out once it is in?

 

eventually. i need to finish a few things up. currently i can only flex one way look at all the pics the flex is all the same way. track bar binds if i raise the drivers side then everything goes in a bind...

Next Saturday I'm borrowing a welder again in hopes to get the track bar fixed...

 

nice! shoot some black rust-o-leum on there and your set!

 

damn nice whats left to get it hooked up besides shortening bolts...

 

Maurice, dont worry ill paint it before it goes in permanently


depends on if there is enough travel in the slip yoke. *fingers crossed*

 

what driveshaft is that from? you might have said but i didnt see...

 

i believe that is from the Jeep the front axle came from....

 

ic ic

 

97 Jeep Cherokee XJ

 

Very cool. I still need attach my flange to the drive shaft I have to get some measurements to see how much, if any, I need the shaft shortened.

 

so you are still trying to figure out if the length of this shaft will work with your lift correct?

if not atleast you have this part to get them to make you a custom now correct?

 

So instead of getting the superlift DS, are you using the same jeep one zach has with the adapter?

 

no he is using a driveshaft from an older explorer, similar to mine but shorter i think.

 

its not really length as it is travel. it will fit in there now but when i flex its either going to bind or over extend.

 

Sort of, oddly enough I was at a junkyard pulling a LS rear end for my Expo 8.8. Low and behold, next to the Expo was a double cardigan shaft sitting on the ground, we compared it to the spare front Ranger shaft I pulled, and it was damn near the same length, had the same size Ujoints too. So I grabbed it to use as a cheap alternative to the SL shaft, but I needed to find a way to get a flange for it. Luckily the guys on this forum introduced the flange me and Beard bought, and it will work out perfectly and insanely cheap compared to the SL shaft.

The shaft is a stock unit on some Ford. But since it was already pulled I have no idea what it came from. I posted the part number that was still on it, but no one could find any info for me. I think why it may need shortened is because the flange will add about another ~2" to the length of the shaft.

Here it is compared to the stock Ranger front shaft.

Part number on shaft.


Obviously I don't need a front shaft with a slip yoke, but what the hell, for $40 I think it was, who cares right?

 

Dang, talk about the right place at the right time. Are you sure it will need to be shortened even with the superlift? I would think if its longer with the adapter than the stock ranger shaft it would be fine cause the superlift's added heigth.

I just wonder how it will hold up, etc.

 

you still need a slip yoke shaft in the front D94R.

 

that looks like the DS in the front of my truck.....when i get home i will see if i can get the part # for my drive shaft......if i haven't painted over it........

according to the local Ford dealer, that is the same driveshaft out of my truck....it is for a Dana 35 TTB and a BW1354 T-case....

that shaft has the slip yoke built in it Beard....that is what that shock boot lookin thing is....

 

what the shop who shorten's it will do is slide the slip yoke off, and cut the tubing at the weld were it knecks down to the splines....then but however much off that part there........that is what they did to my rear when i had to have it shortened....

 

Interesting, any idea's how much it would cost to shorten that?

 

it cost me $40 to shorten my rear 2".........

 

ha, thats nothing!

I cant wait to hear how this turns out for ya Matt.

 

How so, the front diff is in a fixed position, and so is the Tcase... what part is moving to require a slip yoke?

Ejumacate me

 

Thanks for the info Maurice. From what I could find, it appears the shaft has a "1990" model year number, and from what I could find it was for B2/Rangers. I also found out that just because its a "1990" model number, it still could be from something newer as long as they kept that design through a particular year. Other than that I couldn't find anymore information to confirm or deny my findings.

 

Like Maurice said, shouldn't be too much.

So far I have ~$40 in the drive shaft.
$117 for the flange.
Shortening should be ~$40.


So I'll have a "Superlift" shaft for ~$200.

Sounds like a better deal to me