drive shaft flopping around like a wet noodle! - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1  
Old 05-02-2011
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drive shaft flopping around like a wet noodle!

ok, so i thought my front wheel bearings were going. heard a sharp whine on take off and grinding noise and felt like the wheels were going to lock up on me. not a prob, swapped out the bearings, inner and outer, on both sides (figured i'd do one, might as well do both sides).

same prob, felt tremendous vibration. after playing around and looking around, found that the drive shaft is flopping around like a wet noodle, right in the middle. found that there's a cross member after the tranny mount/cross member that looks like it holds the shaft in place and there's what looks like a U shaped mount with a rubber type of ring around it. the rubber thingy is all torn to pieces and seems to be what is causing the shaft to flop around.

what is the name of that part so i can get a new one and is there a sticky on how to remove the shaft to replace this part?

it's a 1995 ranger, 2wd, auto, 3.0 xl

thanks
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  #2  
Old 05-02-2011
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universal joints, they are pressed in, unless u have some kind of a press, take the driveshaft to a shop with the new u joint and have them press it in.
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Old 05-02-2011
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rubber boot? slip yoke. ford sells a kit for this. it contains a new boot, 2 lock ring clips and the teflon grease the new type 15 bux
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Old 05-02-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j99ranger4x4 View Post
universal joints, they are pressed in, unless u have some kind of a press, take the driveshaft to a shop with the new u joint and have them press it in.
you don't need a press. you can use an extension and a deep socket and pound it out. do this at work all day long.
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  #5  
Old 05-02-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j99ranger4x4 View Post
universal joints, they are pressed in, unless u have some kind of a press, take the driveshaft to a shop with the new u joint and have them press it in.
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Originally Posted by 04RangerDave View Post
rubber boot? slip yoke. ford sells a kit for this. it contains a new boot, 2 lock ring clips and the teflon grease the new type 15 bux
i've seen a press kit that looks like a huge "C" clamp. i've got a few of those that have the bottom of the clamp split like a forked tongue. if that won't do, i got a buddy who's got those kind of tools.

gotta go to work in a few. i'll take a look at it again in the morning and see about getting the shaft out. will try the slip yoke kit first and inspect the joints while i got it out. there's an advanced auto about a half a mile down the street, i'll check for the kit there on my way out.
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Old 05-02-2011
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my apologies, did not mean to say pressed in like i did, installation they need to b pressed back in.
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  #7  
Old 05-02-2011
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Originally Posted by j99ranger4x4 View Post
universal joints, they are pressed in, unless u have some kind of a press, take the driveshaft to a shop with the new u joint and have them press it in.
False.

Its your carrier bearing OP.

You do not need to remove any u-joints to replace the carrier bearing as far as I know. Just removal of the driveshaft itself.

Nor is it the slip yoke.

Jeez talk about leading a guy down the wrong path, you guys didn't help one iota.
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  #8  
Old 05-02-2011
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Originally Posted by j99ranger4x4 View Post
universal joints, they are pressed in, unless u have some kind of a press, take the driveshaft to a shop with the new u joint and have them press it in.
wtf... I've always changed them by pulling the retaining clip out and hitting it with a hammer until the 'boots' come off.
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  #9  
Old 05-02-2011
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Originally Posted by legoms013 View Post
False.

Its your carrier bearing OP.

You do not need to remove any u-joints to replace the carrier bearing as far as I know. Just removal of the driveshaft itself.

Nor is it the slip yoke.

Jeez talk about leading a guy down the wrong path, you guys didn't help one iota.
What he said^^^ if you read the OPs middle paragraph he's clearly describing the carrier bearing. Its really a quite easy fix, i just replaced mine not to long ago, gotta remove the short shaft, get a 2 jaw puller to get the old bearing off, then tap the new one on. Get a haynes manual, helps a ton actually.

Here, i just went back to my post when i did it and grabbed my final words from the job:

Quote:
I'd just like to update you all, ended up just replacing the carrier bearing, mainly because of the fact i didn't want to deal with all those rusty rivets, and i'm not sure how removing that crossmember would help anything, plus i don't off road a lot and my truck is stock height.

I'd just like to put some tips here in case someones searching and reads this.

1)Have a two jaw puller handy. There is NO WAY i would have gotten the yoke, or bearing off w/o one.
2)Remember the orientation of the old bearing so you can place the new one on.
3)regarding the small metal plate that comes with your new bearing- if the plate from the old bearing is still well intact and pressed on good, Just keep it there. I had a hard time getting the new one fit on, ended up using some exhaust pipe and a block of wood and hammer to smack it on.
4)loctite the nut before re torquing, just for the hell of it.
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  #10  
Old 05-02-2011
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Its your Carrier Bearing. your U joint doesn't have a rubber type ring like what he is talking about.
you need one of these


It will make your job 300x easier.
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  #11  
Old 05-02-2011
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Originally Posted by legoms013 View Post
False.

Its your carrier bearing OP.

You do not need to remove any u-joints to replace the carrier bearing as far as I know. Just removal of the driveshaft itself.

Nor is it the slip yoke.

Jeez talk about leading a guy down the wrong path, you guys didn't help one iota.
lol it's all good, gives me food for thought for things i might need to do eventually anyways
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Old 05-03-2011
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Do your self a favor before someone makes you miss the boat again

Replace ALL u-joints and the carrier bearing. Mark the driveshaft before taking it apart (or dropping it off somewhere) lube the slip yoke with ford PTFE grease or marine grease and youll never have to worry about that driveshaft again

I will do u-joints if i have to, but theres a truck shop by my house that if i have time i drop it off for u joints and a balance for around $60. i wouldnt bother doing the midshift bearing yourself honestly, and that is coming from a Ford technician! they suck!
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  #13  
Old 05-03-2011
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Originally Posted by pcollins View Post
What he said^^^ if you read the OPs middle paragraph he's clearly describing the carrier bearing. Its really a quite easy fix, i just replaced mine not to long ago, gotta remove the short shaft, get a 2 jaw puller to get the old bearing off, then tap the new one on. Get a haynes manual, helps a ton actually.

Here, i just went back to my post when i did it and grabbed my final words from the job:
yea i have a haynes. as a matter of fact, i left it at work tonight by mistake lol.

is there a "how to" around here to just pull off the short shaft? any idea on how much a new carrier bearing should run me? i know i'll need a new boot though, it's shredded.

it's supposed to rain tomorrow, but i gotta get this sh*t done lol. it's been 3 days and i'm tired of not having a vehicle already, plus i got a load of scrap in the back of it still that needs to get dropped off before headin to work. anybody in the area want an old 300 gal. oil tank for makin a bbq or smoker? LOL. i know, sounds ghetto

i can't complain though, this little truck's been doin pretty well for all the work i've thrown at it since i've bought it. it's a tough little thing and i wouldn't give it up for anything. i honestly think it's a better truck than the junker s10 i had about 4 years ago although i do miss kickin the fuse box to get the wipers to work... NOT
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  #14  
Old 05-03-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toreador4x4 View Post
Do your self a favor before someone makes you miss the boat again

Replace ALL u-joints and the carrier bearing. Mark the driveshaft before taking it apart (or dropping it off somewhere) lube the slip yoke with ford PTFE grease or marine grease and youll never have to worry about that driveshaft again

I will do u-joints if i have to, but theres a truck shop by my house that if i have time i drop it off for u joints and a balance for around $60. i wouldnt bother doing the midshift bearing yourself honestly, and that is coming from a Ford technician! they suck!
hey, gotta do what i gotta do lol. bank account is gettin too low
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  #15  
Old 05-03-2011
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hey i did a quick vid with my cheapie camcorder. maybe ya'll can see something that i can't


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  #16  
Old 05-03-2011
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Mullet? Is that you?
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  #17  
Old 05-03-2011
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Originally Posted by Joeybutts View Post
Mullet? Is that you?
it's an afigmentation of your imaginication. should i know you from somewhere?

Last edited by MuLLeT; 05-04-2011 at 12:10 AM.
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  #18  
Old 05-04-2011
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Originally Posted by MuLLeT View Post
it's an afigmentation of your imaginication. should i know you from somewhere?
With a unique username I figured not many people would have it, but I thought you were someone from another forum I am on. His username is Mullet! Sorry for the confusion!
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  #19  
Old 05-04-2011
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Originally Posted by Joeybutts View Post
With a unique username I figured not many people would have it, but I thought you were someone from another forum I am on. His username is Mullet! Sorry for the confusion!
lol it's not that unique, only 1 in 1 billion

which forum? i'm on a few and tent to try and use the same name
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  #20  
Old 05-04-2011
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Originally Posted by MuLLeT View Post
lol it's not that unique, only 1 in 1 billion

which forum? i'm on a few and tent to try and use the same name
hahahah. forum.edesignaudio.com.
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  #21  
Old 05-05-2011
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hahahah. forum.edesignaudio.com.
nah guess it isn't me lol.
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  #22  
Old 05-05-2011
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WT....F!

ok now i finally got my driveshaft out and there's tranny fluid everywhere . i got a replacement part from advanced auto, cost me $18.XX plus tax, came out to just over $20. i can deal with that. it's an Anchor brand center bearing, whole assembly - half circle mount, rubber cushion, bearing and a separate metal flange lookin thing. one side of the rubber kinda "juts" out like a lip and i'me wondering which side is the front and where does the metal ring go?????

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  #23  
Old 05-06-2011
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This is where i had issues, when you get the short shaft off you'll see where the metal ring goes. BUT, if the metal ring thats on your driveshaft now isn't bad, totally rusted out, or damaged in any way, just leave it there and re use it. Its a true PITA to get the new one on straight. I used exhaust pipe and a 2x4 in the end (after i bent it all to hell trying other ways and had to straighten it).

As for the orientation, pay very close attention to the old one before removal, find some characteristic they both have on one side and remember which way the old one was on.
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