Front Driveshaft
I'm planning to swap in an older manual case later in the year. So it sounds to me like I need to wait. That way I'll only be paying once to get it chopped/balanced and not have to buy the adaptor with the manual case.
I guess I'll go pick up a stock one to hold me over until I make the swap.
I guess I'll go pick up a stock one to hold me over until I make the swap.
Last edited by seed60; Mar 27, 2009 at 03:46 PM.
I haven't had any problems whatsoever with my new front shaft. We've had snow up here for a bit and I've been running around in 4wd for a couple days. No worries. Matt I was looking into swapping out the output shaft before, but it's just more work. It was easier to put an adapter in, cut the shaft and install. Instead of dropping both Driveshafts, and dropping a case. I don't really see an advantage, a 4.0 truck doesn't have the capability of snapping anything (adapter or not)and ie something between the ujoint and the actually case unless you've got some serious rubber your turning. Which those of us who have done this mod, are 35's and below. But hey to each his own....
I haven't had any problems whatsoever with my new front shaft. We've had snow up here for a bit and I've been running around in 4wd for a couple days. No worries. Matt I was looking into swapping out the output shaft before, but it's just more work. It was easier to put an adapter in, cut the shaft and install. Instead of dropping both Driveshafts, and dropping a case. I don't really see an advantage, a 4.0 truck doesn't have the capability of snapping anything (adapter or not)
I just swapped the output shafts because my new t-case was from an explorer, and the adapter was on the ranger style output shaft and I had only run the drive shaft once.
It still sticks the joint out a little farther. I'm just saying..
i have to limit my down travel due to the double cardan joint not having enough travel, if i move it back 4-6" that lessens the angle on it.
i have to limit my down travel due to the double cardan joint not having enough travel, if i move it back 4-6" that lessens the angle on it.
honestly dont remember...you should do it center of joint to center of joint ideally. I got a measurement when the adaptor was in the bucket, then measured, gave the measurement to my driveline shop, and had it shortened and balanced for like $50.
Just to open this up again and start more questions...
I was able to locate a 2 month old SL Driveshaft for my Ranger, WHEN I get my lift in, for a good price.
I have been looking around the web for some info on it and can't seem to locate what I want.
1) install Instructions.
2) Are there any additional pieces needed to install this shaft ?
thanks to anyone that helps out.
I was able to locate a 2 month old SL Driveshaft for my Ranger, WHEN I get my lift in, for a good price.
I have been looking around the web for some info on it and can't seem to locate what I want.
1) install Instructions.
2) Are there any additional pieces needed to install this shaft ?
thanks to anyone that helps out.
1) instructions really aren't that needed...it's easy. I like to get the axle side straps started, then work on the Tcase end by getting it started, then tightening the axle straps then back up to the tcase, then done.
2) not really. Unless it's missing hardware. And if it's missing hardware, you could run your factory already there hardware.
2) not really. Unless it's missing hardware. And if it's missing hardware, you could run your factory already there hardware.
1) instructions really aren't that needed...it's easy. I like to get the axle side straps started, then work on the Tcase end by getting it started, then tightening the axle straps then back up to the tcase, then done.
2) not really. Unless it's missing hardware. And if it's missing hardware, you could run your factory already there hardware.
2) not really. Unless it's missing hardware. And if it's missing hardware, you could run your factory already there hardware.
I got the shaft and the price was more than right so i was wondering if there was something missing.
I didn't want to get started on teh swap and find out I needed a new flange.
So the Shaft just bolts in, nothing to do to the T/C ?
ltr
I am assuming it is, that is the way it was sold on the Explorer Forum and it has the superlift sticker and the SL P/N.
We will see once I get the lift, still out a couple of weeks.
Thanks again.
sorry to bring this back up
but I need the Flange # N-2-83-288X correct my buddy said he would order it just making sure its the right part to fix the problem he has everything else at the shop
Thanks
Thanks
Last edited by squrll; Dec 3, 2009 at 03:55 PM.
Neapco N2-83-288X. It has a 6 bolt flange. If it's got the 6 bolt flange, it is absolutely the correct flange. Same one I linked in your lift thread.
Parts
Page 8, Zabeard linked a few other resources for the part, but I believe you've got that covered thank to the friend. lol. The adaptor you'll be getting is the exact same adaptor that's included in the Superlift shaft.
Parts
Page 8, Zabeard linked a few other resources for the part, but I believe you've got that covered thank to the friend. lol. The adaptor you'll be getting is the exact same adaptor that's included in the Superlift shaft.
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