When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Transmission shops can test line pressure while transmission is in gear, and its warmed up, usually costs $90-$150
You can usually rent 300psi pressure gauges to DIY it but need to find the pressure ranges expected
Also the fact that there are NO transmission codes when trans stops working is very odd, so maybe it is transfer case
As for transfer case slipping, see if parking on a hill holds or have someone try to pull the truck in Park after its warmed up
When I changed transfer case fluid last night, I drove around block a couple times. No problems, weird sounds, smells etc. Stopped on my gravel and put in four high, heard motor change, four low and motor changes. Back to four high then two wd. All worked normal. Drove around town some this afternoon. No problems. Get home pull into gravel and turn to four high. No sound. Then the six blink. Tried low and nothing. Hopefully more clues to the problem.
RonD,
im going to buy a used transfer case and rebuild kit. I’ve tried to figure out compatibility but not 100% sure. Is this one the same thing I have? All the numbers I have circled are what is making me unsure.
Mazda is at the experts today. Will do their thing tomorrow using their experience and expertise to hopefully find the culprit. After telling him the story, he thinks possibly in valve body. But he was honest and said he doesn’t have a clue for now.
Got word from mechanic. He checked computer and were no codes relating to transmission. Left him a very detailed explanation of problems. He says transfer case is bw1354 with sub number of 87-a. Says the 87-a has clutches in transfer case and they are going/gone bad. So will replace transfer case. Ron, you have any thoughts? I trust him, but a second opinion never hurts.
Not seeing the electric clutch causing the issue since its more like a synchro for 4WD, but possible, its on the connection between output shaft and front drive chain, it allows for "shift on the fly" between 2WD and 4High
But in any case opening up the transfer case should reveal the problem if its transfer case related, which we are pretty sure it is
My money would be on planetary gears, that's the only place input shaft and output shaft can be disconnected
This is a longer video but shows how an electric shift transfer case works, this is a toyota transfer case but same as how BW1354 works, or pretty much any chain drive 4WD transfer case, AWD is diferent
Another question. Does a 57a-aa interchange with 87-a? Reason for question found a new old stock. But only has 1354. The sub characters not listed. Same price as used part
If my research is correct......
95-00same
01-03 the same. One I found was new old stock at great price. Was 01-03.
01-03 does not fit mine. But have one on way. Gonna pay to have put on. Think will be little hard on me being on my back by myself with 75 pound part with very little clearance from floor to case.
I’m learning. Slowly. So if I read correctly, the determining factor in fit or not is if the front shaft is fixed yolk or front cup yolk connected. Speedo hole doesn’t matter on my truck. That correct? The new old stock is a front cup yolk.
1995-1998 (Electric Shift) rear circular flange front fixed yoke with speedo hole, w/o sensor hole
1998-2000 (Electric Shift) rear circular flange, front cup yoke w/o speedo hole, w/o sensor hole
2000-2004 (Electric Shift) rear circular flange, front cup yoke w/o speedo hole, w/o sensor hole, w/o shift on the fly
Its really not a big deal because if you ended up with yoke style, any wrecking yard would have that style front drive shaft from a 1990-1997 Ranger/Mazda
Truck is at the high school auto mechanics shop. The instructor said would be a good lesson for kids to swap out a transfer case. minimal cost with used case. Hope this is culprit. Will know in about a week.
Got the Mazda back yesterday. I out it through a pretty good test and all seemed normal. My dad has a couple 45 minute round trips planned today. Should get it good and warm to see if same problem arises. Seems like a good shape donor transfer case. The motor still worked on it. Fingers crossed.
After a good forty minute drive to and from, dad had no problems. Mostly highway driving also. So plenty heat I’d think. Also have a potential buyer. Just had to ask his wife. Who knows what that will lead to. :).
have started on the F-150 some. Crank no run situation. But runs with little ether. Checking all the wires , connections, relays now.
After five days of driving as an 82 year old does, still good to go. He has made three or four forty-fifty minute round trips and no problems. I know I shouldn’t post this because as soon as I do he will tell me a problem. But looks promising.