Great...O/D light... - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

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  #1  
Old 03-10-2007
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Great...O/D light...

Well, beat the **** out of the truck tonight offroading. When I was crawling up a rock hill kinda thing my o/d light came on...now it stayed on and it will go on every time I go from a dead stop to 2nd gear.

Great!! Just what I need. I shoulda known better than to wheel the truck. I'm pissed, aggrivated, tired, and muddy...

I hope it's something minor, I'm pulling the code tommorow. I think I just put too much stress on it and it needs to just relax for a little. I did a lot of pulling and such...

I swear if I blow the transmission I'm blowing the truck up...

I guess if it IS slipping (which it doens't FEEL like it) I can try lucas if anything, I heard it does wonders.

1st step is a full service flush though, I think I'm doing that tommorow reguardless...I am really worried about the truck!!!

Has this ever happened to anyone else? Griggs?

I know the o/d flashing is a transmission dtc, and it could range from something minor to major. But I JUST had the transmission rebuilt, it has a shift kit and upgraded converter. I don't see why it would be messed up now. i didn't slam foward/reverse at all. The worst I did to it was spin the tires in mud, besides for getting stuck up a hill, which wasn't all that bad...


I dunno, if it's seriously blown I'm doing either of 2 things...

1. 5r44e 4wd tranny w/ bw1354 manual tranny and shorter rear driveshaft...start collecting for SAS and buy another little ranger as a DD (which I'm thinking about anyway)
2. Burn it

But I don't think it's blown, I think I just stressed it wayyyy too much tonight and it needs to get a break. I wasn't pulling a trailer or anything. And any pulling situation I was slipping the tires. Temp never went above 165 tonight either...
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Old 03-10-2007
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take it back to the folks who fixed it and say WTF?
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Old 03-10-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrpro130
Well, beat the **** out of the truck tonight offroading.
and there is your problem.......you should have known better after spending $2,000 on getting your tranmission rebuilt.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by gatorblue92
take it back to the folks who fixed it and say WTF?
and they will say: "you took it offroad, warranty is voild"
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Old 03-10-2007
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^^ mmmhmm thats what u get.. lol like i got room to talk cuz as soon as mine's out.. she's goin straight to the mudhole :) buahahaha
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Old 03-10-2007
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ah dont feel bad. last night my abs light came on, my breaks have a pulsation in them, and i have a busted cv boot that i cant change...o yea an also on the back of my rotor/hub where the shaft is theres 2 teeth on the spline that are chipped :) quit cryin lol jk
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Old 03-10-2007
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Well crap that sucks, Id say clean the hell out of it take it back and do the WTF, just say it came on going over a speed bump or somthing :), if its major...it its minor no sweat...
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Old 03-10-2007
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I still have to run the code...

Thats what I get I guess!!!

They will definetly say my warranty is void b/c I went offroad. I will have to clean the crap out of it, like with a toothbrush...
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Old 03-10-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
and there is your problem.......you should have known better after spending $2,000 on getting your tranmission rebuilt.....


and they will say: "you took it offroad, warranty is voild"
I know, I know...

Well, I'm taking it back on monday, if it makes it.

2nd gear is slipping, it's the 1-2 shift that is messed up.

Seems like torque converter to me. The tranny definetly went into "limp mode" today and it seems like it's getting worse.

When it's cold, it's fine, runs perfect. When when hot, thats the problem.

I'm converting the rear to full open again (putting spider gears back in) and hopefully that will take some strain off the tranny. If the tranny shop says they can't fix it under warantee I just have to pay.

My guess is just some metal shavings from the torque converter slipping. They are getting between the converter and causing it to not be able to lock up.

Next step of action after diagnosis is to change oil and run full synthetic and 1 quart of lucas transmission fix as a precaution.

I can't believe after 7k miles it's gone again. I am not rough on the truck besides for last night. I wasn't even that rough, I just slipped the tires on an incline and the o/d light went off.

I dont' tow, I can't pull people out...what else could it be?

BTW, gas gauge still doesn't work, so I'm thinking something electical. Gas gauge and cel have been on for a WHILE now, I haven't had any time to send it to the shop...I work when they are open. So anyway, I hope it will limp to the carwash, then back to my house, then I may just tow it to the shop. either way, I HAVE to get it fixed.

I am buying a mud truck after I pay fo the damages (or get it fixed under warantee). I will pay about 2-4k and it WILL pay for itself over and over.

If i BLOW my engine or tranny again, I'm looking at 2k for each...that means the mud truck would pay for itself. I don't care at this point.

Truck is going to be a street queen, and I'm getting a beater and paying payments on it...

Hopefully I can fix my POS ranger, damn I want to light it on fire...I wish it would just light itself up...(thinking of l2en, sorry man!!!)

I wonder what I can do to help the slippage???
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  #9  
Old 03-10-2007
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Suzuki Samurai man... I got my whole truck for less than the cost of a Superlift.
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  #10  
Old 03-10-2007
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Can you swap in a manual? Might be cheaper in the long run...at least thats what I am doing when I get back from Mexico. Mine failed about 30K after the last rebuild I had, even with proper maintenance. These things are just a POS.
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Old 03-10-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4RangerGuy
Can you swap in a manual? Might be cheaper in the long run...at least thats what I am doing when I get back from Mexico. Mine failed about 30K after the last rebuild I had, even with proper maintenance. These things are just a POS.
I could, but I heard it was a lot of work.

I'd be swapping a manual and a bw1351 too...manual if I could find it. And I'd have to get a shorter rear ds.

It's definetly do'able, but I don't think it's bolt on...

I know we ahve the spot for the clutch. I would jsut need brake pedal (slimmer one) and clutch and cables, then the tranny, tcase, and shorter DS.

As long as everything is manual, I can just re-flash the PCM, so I hear...





As it sits, I'm hoping I can get home, I am at work right now!!!

It's slipping 2nd gear when hot, when cold, no problems. I'm putting my spider gears back in the rear, and we'll see what happens....

I think rebuilds are POS's, I've always hated them...I spent 2200 for NOTHING. Now I at least need a new torque converter it looks like. Or it coudl be as simple as needing a good flush. I did have some metal chunks from the last one, and I don't think the jube flushed it the first time around...we'll see.

I hope I didn't get screwed like l2en and they just cleaned everythign off and put it back togethere. I'd be really pissed. It seems like thats what happened too, because after 6k the tranny starts slipping??? WTF!!!

Well, I'm cleaning reallly good tommorow and we'll see what happens. I'm hitting the carwash tonight if it makes it there...
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Old 03-10-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrpro130
I could, but I heard it was a lot of work.

I'd be swapping a manual and a bw1351 too...manual if I could find it. And I'd have to get a shorter rear ds.

It's definetly do'able, but I don't think it's bolt on...

I know we ahve the spot for the clutch. I would jsut need brake pedal (slimmer one) and clutch and cables, then the tranny, tcase, and shorter DS.

As long as everything is manual, I can just re-flash the PCM, so I hear...





As it sits, I'm hoping I can get home, I am at work right now!!!

It's slipping 2nd gear when hot, when cold, no problems. I'm putting my spider gears back in the rear, and we'll see what happens....

I think rebuilds are POS's, I've always hated them...I spent 2200 for NOTHING. Now I at least need a new torque converter it looks like. Or it coudl be as simple as needing a good flush. I did have some metal chunks from the last one, and I don't think the jube flushed it the first time around...we'll see.

I hope I didn't get screwed like l2en and they just cleaned everythign off and put it back togethere. I'd be really pissed. It seems like thats what happened too, because after 6k the tranny starts slipping??? WTF!!!

Well, I'm cleaning reallly good tommorow and we'll see what happens. I'm hitting the carwash tonight if it makes it there...

hmm I think flush is bad, i always heard flushing it wasn't to good, then again its just rebuilt, hmm makes me wonder if I ll ahve trouble so soon, then again I had both my tranny and tourq converter rebuilt, and now a tranny cooler...so who knows, im a lil scurred now
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Old 03-10-2007
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I think that spool definetly had something to do with this although I could be wrong. But something has to give when both back wheels are locked.
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  #14  
Old 03-10-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrpro130
I could, but I heard it was a lot of work.

I'd be swapping a manual and a bw1351 too...manual if I could find it. And I'd have to get a shorter rear ds.

It's definetly do'able, but I don't think it's bolt on...

I know we ahve the spot for the clutch. I would jsut need brake pedal (slimmer one) and clutch and cables, then the tranny, tcase, and shorter DS.

As long as everything is manual, I can just re-flash the PCM, so I hear...

I think rebuilds are POS's, I've always hated them...I spent 2200 for NOTHING.
Yeah, I forgot your truck was a 2WD. A little bit more work to swap over, although not too bad I think. Although why swap in a BW1354 tcase? Are you coverting your 2WD to 4x4? If not, just get a 2WD M5OD, itll swap right in without any changes to your driveshaft. You will need a different computer, but searching through a yard should get you that.

Yeah, rebuilds do suck. I just got fed up and I am swapping in a manual. Im getting all my conversion stuff from a guy who rebuilds M5ODs on TRS. Great price too. Only thing I hafta buy is Master, slave, clutch kit, and neutral safety switch.
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Old 03-11-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4RangerGuy
Yeah, I forgot your truck was a 2WD. A little bit more work to swap over, although not too bad I think. Although why swap in a BW1354 tcase? Are you coverting your 2WD to 4x4? If not, just get a 2WD M5OD, itll swap right in without any changes to your driveshaft. You will need a different computer, but searching through a yard should get you that.

Yeah, rebuilds do suck. I just got fed up and I am swapping in a manual. Im getting all my conversion stuff from a guy who rebuilds M5ODs on TRS. Great price too. Only thing I hafta buy is Master, slave, clutch kit, and neutral safety switch.
Sounds good! I may have to get some info on that.


I just want to keep the truck drivable, so m50d sounds nice...2wd will be fine for me...I just need something for work and back.

I got my eyes on a old 150 for a beater
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  #16  
Old 03-11-2007
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Just some updates:

ONly does it when truck is warm

My 2nd gear will not engage when o/d is off. it just spins

This leads me to believe it is electrical. Every other gear is fine when it's not in limp mode. I have too many electrical problems in my truck.

I need to get the code read.
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  #17  
Old 03-11-2007
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Sounds electrical, hopefully it is. It would suck if it needed another rebuild.

Also, finding a 2WD M5OD shouldnt be hard. Plenty of 3.0 2WDs came with M5ODs, so searching the yards would be your best bet.
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  #18  
Old 03-11-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4RangerGuy
Sounds electrical, hopefully it is. It would suck if it needed another rebuild.

Also, finding a 2WD M5OD shouldnt be hard. Plenty of 3.0 2WDs came with M5ODs, so searching the yards would be your best bet.
Definetly sounds electrical to me...

Probably 1-2 solenoid, but we'll see.

Either way, iw ant to swap in a manual soon enough...
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  #19  
Old 03-11-2007
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I've asked Bob about that before...cause it happened to me once. It went away after I turned my truck off and back on.

He said it was most likely a transmission problem.
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