Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

Hard to shift

Old 05-18-2018
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: El mirage AZ
Posts: 4
Hard to shift

Hello i have a 2000 ranger 5 speed manual and it pretty hard to shift, i know my power steering pump is bad bc it makes a real bad squeal when i turn, also i think my fan clutch is bad due to when i turn on the truck the fan is already engaged and doesnt turn off or freewheel it goes with my rpms, so my question is when im coming to a stop my engine bay is really loud sounds like a school bus also when taking off then when taking off in first gear, when i try to shift i feel like truck hesitates with me for 1-2 secs before i can change gears like the rpms are too high so it wont let me engage, happens to 1-4 gear mostly so i traffic it gets really tough to shift. It doesnt make any grinding noise at all, also when coming to a stop like i said the engine is reallt loud before i come to a stop the light turns green and i try to put it in first and i feel it not letting me into gear for that 1-3 secs while my foot is on the clutch, then i hear the rpms go down and it lets perfectly fine. My question do any of those two issues play any role in that? Any suggestions?
Old 05-18-2018
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 12,732
2000 Ranger will have the M5OD-R1 manual transmission

It uses ATF, yes automatic transmission fluid in a manual transmission.

Some one may have changed fluids and put in Gear Oil, this would make trans hard to shift.

On the drivers side of transmission there is a bolt about 1/2 way up the side, thats the Fill and check level hole.
Remove that bolt and you should see ATF, red fluid, seeping out, if it is full, if not put screwdriver or "other" dip stick into the hole to check level AND to make sure there is RED ATF in there.
If you see Gear oil, anything NOT Red then you will need to drain current fluid and refill with ATF, takes 2.8 quarts dry, so maybe 2-2.5 quarts on refill

Yes, on cold start fan clutch should be fully engaged, so you should hear louder noise from engine bay for 3 to 10 seconds and then noise should drop quite a bit when fan clutch releases, if you don't hear that change in noise fan clutch has Failed in "safe mode".
Safe mode prevents overheating at idle, so fan clutch is suppose to do that when it fails.

Clutch for transmission disengages the input shaft from the engine RPMs.
The transmissions main shaft is ALWAYS spinning at driveline/wheel RPMs there is no disconnect for that.
So when stopped the transmission RPMs are at 0rpms
Engine RPMS are at, say, 750rpms
So when you push in the clutch pedal the 750rpm input shaft must be slowed down to 0 RPMs so you can put transmission into a 0 RPM gear

If clutch disc is rubbing on flywheel or pressure plate then it is hard to get it to slow down to 0 RPMs.
On hydraulic clutch systems(what Rangers use) if air gets into the lines then clutch can not be fully disengaged and will rub on flywheel and pressure plate, making it hard to get into 1st when stopped and hard to shift when moving, matching engine and rear wheel RPMs
Rangers are hard to bleed the air out of but you may need to do this

Power steering pump is the hardest load on the fan belt, so pump may be fine and its the belt that's the problem OR incorrect method last time belt was changed.
If you have a squeaking fan belt then pulleys are getting GLAZED(polished) every time you hear that squeak/squeal
So if you change the fan belt and don't deglaze the pulleys it will squeal again.
With belt off you use emory cloth or sand paper to rough up the pulley surfaces, or repaint them, belt needs a good GRIP to turn the pulleys without slipping(squealing)

Last edited by RonD; 05-18-2018 at 10:41 AM.
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