Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

Intermittent bounce

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Old Feb 12, 2019
  #1  
RCD1320's Avatar
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From: Stockbridge GA
Intermittent bounce


I have a 2002 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD 3.0 auto. I recently lifted my truck (spindles & shackles) and doing so I replaced upper & lower control arms (camber bolts on uppers) inner & outer tie rod ends, inner & outer wheel bearings, rotors, calipers, brake pads, sway bar end links and body bushings. bilstein 5100’s all around, new leaf springs and I swapped in a 8.8 4.10’s LSD (junkyard axle 56,000miles). Brand new wheels and tires 33x12.50x17. Ever since then the truck rides rough. I can see the bed bouncing in my side mirror, the steering wheel shakes back and forth and the passenger seats shakes!!! I checked and rechecked everything I installed. I have had the wheels, tires, and alignment checked. The truck doesn’t ride like that all the time, most of the time but not all. Sometimes it will drive normal no bouncing or vibration. I can see my rear tires wobbling at highway speeds but I’ve taken the truck to 2 different places and they both told me the wheels and tires are fine. I swapped the front tires to the back and it does the same thing. I don’t know what else to do!!!! Please help!
 
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Old Feb 13, 2019
  #2  
2000ranger559's Avatar
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From: Porterville
2000 ranger

It could just be the way the tires have dirt on them ot looks like its wobbly I'm sure you'd feel it and when you lift your truck it's not gonna ride like a stock ranger does its gonna wonder alot and for the steering wheel shake I would say replace shocks maybe your front tires are bouncing I know mine do it do but it's because my shocks need replaced
 
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Old Feb 13, 2019
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RonD's Avatar
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From: Vancouver, BC
Nice looking Ranger

4-wheel alignment?

People often use the wrong spring rating for lifts
Spring rating should NOT change from stock rating unless you increase the WEIGHT of the vehicle itself, axles and wheel don't count
Springs can only work if the weight they support is enough to flex them, otherwise you might as well just use steel rods to the frame

If you remove the upper or lower shock attachment point on both shocks on the front axle(and rear)
You should be able to easily bounce the body with your 150-200lb weight
If you can't then you are over sprung on that axle

"Firm" springs are NOT GOOD for on road or off-road
Suspension does two things, ride quality of course, but the big thing is so you can maintain control, i.e. 4 wheels flat on the ground means YOU are in control
When a wheel is not flat on the ground you lose traction for power and braking, simple as that
You also lose steering if its front wheels
When you hit a bump the wheel and axle should push up against the spring, and the WEIGHT of the vehicle holds the spring down allowing it to "act like a spring" and absorb most of the bump, leaving the wheel flat on the ground
If you are over sprung then when you hit a bump the wheel and axle go up and push the weight of the vehicle up, since the weight of the vehicle is more than the weight of the wheel and axle then the vehicle pulls the wheel and axle up with it, and now there is no traction for the wheel and no steering, NOT a good thing.

AND you will have vibrations, there is nothing absorbing the road imperfections, you feel every nook and cranny the wheel does

If you want to see if its a suspension issue, lower tire pressure a bit, allow the tires to absorb the smaller "bumps"

You can use adjustable shocks, with the CORRECT SPRINGS, to change ride a bit for softer or firmer control
But it all starts with the springs
 
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Old Feb 15, 2019
  #4  
cliffdog2004's Avatar
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From: San Diego, CA
Originally Posted by RonD

People often use the wrong spring rating for lifts
Spring rating should NOT change from stock rating unless you increase the WEIGHT of the vehicle itself, axles and wheel don't count
Springs can only work if the weight they support is enough to flex them, otherwise you might as well just use steel rods to the frame
Dude. That was spot-on

As for that rear shaking/vibration...here are a couple of suggestions:

I can see you might have used lift blocks.

These (in extreme cases) will sometimes cause your axle to "walk" as the point of contact is now X inches away.

Some put traction bars on each side to combat this like these:



These will physically prevent that "walk" and also any axle wrap.

Mind you, these are extreme length on a full-size diesel. There are smaller for a mid-size.

For a little more, I have my own tires and wheels balanced "dual plane" (inside and outside weights). Yeah, it looks awful on the outside with the hammer-on weights, but at least I'm smoother on the road.
 
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