Hello All!
I am a brand new member, so please forgive me if this is a sticky somewhere, as I haven't gone through this site fully yet.

I was driving home from work yesterday, and my Ranger went out of overdrive, the OD Off light was blinking. I got off my exit and hit the stoplight. I tried restarting the truck at this point, but the light was still there. Light turned green, and No power. Feels like it is stating off in 3rd gear. Engine sputtering and struggling. I took it to the local parts store and pulled the codes, Most are trans related, solenoids TCC etc. Some Evap codes and a O2 heater codes as well. While we were writing the codes down the engine started to stall out at idle. Was able to barely get the truck home.

In short, any similar experiences? I wonder if the Transmission itself went, or if I am having an electrical issue with my transmission circuits.
Thanks in advance for any help!

 

Welcome to the forum

First, need the year of your Ranger and also engine size, that will tell use what automatic transmission you have
There were 3 different models used, A4LD, 4R and 5R

OD light flashing means computer has decided there is an engine problem OR transmission problem, not limited to just transmission problem.

Computer will change to "safe shift" mode if there is an engine problem, and because engine was "sputtering" it may be engine issue

So year and engine please just to get started
If you can get exact codes that would also be helpful

But year and engine first is fine

 

Sorry, I thought that info would show after I filled it out:
2001 Ranger XLT 4x4 4.0 SOHC.
The codes are almost all transmission related codes. There were almost 30 of them(some repeated twice). I can list them here if needed, but most were related to various solenoids and TCC.

 

yes, list them, or the ones you think are pertinent, and definitions if you have looked them up already, no one knows then by heart, lol

2001 4.0l SOHC will have the 5R55E automatic

If there are that many then could be a fuse, on 2001 check fuse 41(20amp) in engine fuse box, that powers the 6 transmission solenoids, TCC is a solenoid.

Transmission solenoids all get 12volts(from fuse 41) when key is on, computer Grounds each to activate then lifts the ground to deactivate.

If fuse 41 is blown then it may blow again if one of the solenoid 12v wires is shorted inside the transmission, they all share that one 12v wire
Also check the multi-wire connector just above pan on the transmission, just in front of shifter, that's all the solenoid wires, and maybe it got hit by some road debris, unlikely but not impossible, especially since problem happened while driving.

Here is a picture of the connector: http://s575.photobucket.com/user/loc.../0029.jpg.html

Sticking up like a periscope with the pins inside, obviously not plugged in to vehicle wiring harness.

The shifter, in the picture, has the Black Digital Range(DTR) sensor on it, that tells the computer what Gear you have selected, just FYI, if this has a problem starter motor won't turn over the engine, START key position need to pass voltage thru this sensor to activate starter motor, so transmission must be in Park or Neutral for it to pass this voltage to starter.
Also computer can go a bit "insane" and not shift well if this has a problem since it doesn't "know" what "gear" it is in

 

ok, here they are, the EVAP codes I have had for a while:

P0740 torque converter clutch circuit
P0743 torque converter clutch circuit
P0750 shift solenoid A malfunc
P0755 shift solenoid B malfunc
P0760 shift solenoid C malfunc
P0765 shift solenoid D malfunc
P1747 electronic pressure control solenoid A short circuit
P0753 shift solenoid a
P0758 shift solenoid B
P0763 shift solenoid C
P0768 shift solenoid D
P1760 linear solenoid for line pressure
P0442 Evap emissions control
P1451 Evap control system canister vent solenoid
P0135 02 sensor heater circuit malfunc
P0141 02 sensor heater circuit malfunc
P0155 02 sensor heater circuit malfunc
P1409 EGR vacuum regulator circuit malfunc
P0743 torque converter clutch solenoid circuit malfunc
P0750 shift A solenoid malfunc
P0755 shift solenoid B malfunc
P0760 shift solenoid C malfunc
P0765 shift solenoid D malfunc
P1747 electronic pressure control solenoid A short circuit
P0442 Evap emissions control
P1451 Evap control system canister vent solenoid
P0135 02 sensor heater circuit malfunc
P0141 02 sensor heater circuit malfunc
P0155 02 sensor heater circuit malfunc
P1409 EGR vacuum regulator circuit malfunc,
I will give the wiring harness and fuse a look. Maybe I will get lucky. I haven't had much in the way of luck with this truck though, been a mess since I bought it! lol

 

For sure power or wiring issue, could be complete computer failure but then you wouldn't get the codes, lol, just no shifting on transmission

And looks like that fuse 41 is also used for O2 heater circuit

AND fuse 41 powers EVAP vent valve

Check O2 sensor wiring, close to exhaust pipes so they can get damaged, a short on the heater circuit wire on any of them would blow that fuse and.................you get what to got now

 

all that is connect through that tiny 10amp blade fuse? I pulled that fuse and it tested ok. I will test it and see if it has power on both sides, but so far i dont see anything obvious.

 

20amp mini-fuse

It only has power with Key on, which comes from fuse #7 in engine fuse box, PCM relay fuse, 30amp mini-fuse

You can down load 2001 owners manual here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...1-models-3747/

Has fuse layouts, starting on page 169 for 4.0l


Now worst case scenario as far as testing will be to pull off the Computers 104 wire connector and test the solenoid and sensor wires for a short to ground to find the one or two wires that are shorted
You will need a Volt/Ohm meter
Connector is on firewall near the top and passenger side center, looks like this: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1052748771

If you get that far I will get the pin numbers you need to test

 

i downloaded the owners manual, thanks for the link. The fuse labeled 41 in the box has a 10amp fuse in it, which ohmed out ok, but perhpas that is not the correct fuse i was looking at. I will revisit it, hopefully tonight. I havr so little free time to troubleshoot things anymore, its crazy. I do have a loaner vehicle which should help. Will i be checking continuity of those pins to ground? KOEO correct?

 

Yes, if you pull off the Computers connector the pins in the connectors for those solenoid should show no continuity to ground, no connection.

The computer IS the ground for those wires

This is wiring diagram for 2001 5R44E and 5R55E same wiring for either

 

ok. So get this. Found the correct fuse 41. Blown. Replaced it with a 30 amp (all i had) and lo and behold, everything is working. Drove around for a while, made sure i got to operating temp and still no issues. Get this...my check engine light, that has been on for a year, is now off as well as the O/D light flashing issue. Not sure what to make of the former...when i first got the truck i had a check engine light on for evap. I replaced the gas cap as a simple first measure, had the dtc cleared. Stayed off for a while, then came back on and has been on ever since. I just figured the gas cap wasnt the issue after all..which it seems it wasnt. So i will change the fuse tomorrow to the correct one and drive it and see how it goes i guess. Any ideas would be most welcome, i find the whole thing strange.

 

Good work

Not all that strange

That fuse provides power for many systems, and it blew for a reason so I don't think the problem is solved, get a spare fuse.
Hopefully when it happens again you can get back up and running faster but you may have to do a bit more investigating of possible shorts
It could have been a one time thing, but not sure how that could happen, could be O2 sensor heater is drawing too many amps

EVAP Code will come back, if there is a leak in the gas tank, takes a few days
Most common issue is filler tube/vent that gets cracks and leaks air.
EVAP uses engine vacuum to suck air out of the gas tank, prevents gas fumes from polluting the air.
EVAP creates a negative pressure in the gas tank then shuts the vent valve and watches the pressure sensor for the tank
If pressure doesn't hold then it will set a code, thats why "gas cap" is always on the list for possible EVAP code issues, if it is loose then tank can't hold pressure.

You can tell if EVAP system is working each time you fill up, when you open the gas cap you will hear a "whooshing" noise as air is sucked into the tank.
ALL vehicles have EVAP systems so all should make the noise
If you can't remember the last time you heard that noise then EVAP isn't working

Simple check for gas tank air leak needs a rag/towel and short hose
Key off
Wet the rag/towel, damp not dripping water
Remove gas cap
Put hose end in the opening
Wrap rag/towel around it to seal opening

Blow into the hose, tank should hold pressure
You can often hear air escaping from cracks in filler hose, may need a friend to listen or blow to find the leak

DO NOT use an air compressor for this test, you WILL blow off fittings
Your lungs can only generate 2psi of pressure, which won't hurt anything

 

i agree it is likely not fixed. But i do find it strange that the MIL that has been on for over a year went off when that fuse was replaced. I expected the OD light to go off, but certainly not the MIL, as i assume there is still an EVAP issue.. that is what i cant wuite wrap my head around. It isnt like i cleared any DTCs. But it acts like i did. I did replace the filler hose a few months back when i did the fuel pump. It looked like swiss cheese. MIL was still on after that though.

 

just a quick update. Ive put 30 miles on my Ranger so far without issue. I will update if something happens. Thanks for the help!

 

I Just had a similar issue today on my 2001 ranger xlt 3.0. I was getting onto the on ramp of the interstate and giving it medium acceleration and the truck bucked really bad once and then seemed fine. When I got to speed I noticed I was around 4500rpm at 65mph and my od light was flashing and check engine light was on. I stopped to turn it off and then back on and nothing changed. When I went to take off again it shuttered and had no power like the truck was stuck in a higher gear and the transmission was slipping. I limped home and scanned it and the only code on the truck is p0743.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Welcome to the forum

Its good to post the code with the definition since you probably looked it up already
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical

There are 5 codes for this solenoid circuit
P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfunction
P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off
P0742 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck On
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical
P0744 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Intermittent

Computer chose P0743 but not P0740 or P0744
So my guess would be that the computer can't "see" the TCC solenoid, so broken wire or solenoid

But there are other issues if its not shifting because this has nothing to do with shifting

Best thing would be to drop the pan and look for any metal or plastic debris in the fluid or pan, if found then full rebuild would be needed
If fluid and pan are clean then test the solenoids, OHM Meter

 

Alright I have an update. This was my first time using my scan tool and I didn’t realize you have to page over for each code. The codes it has are:

P0743- tongue converter clutch circuit electrical
P0750- shift solenoid A
P0755- shift solenoid B
P0760- shift solenoid C
P0765- shift solenoid D
P1747- pressure control solenoid A short circuit

number 41 20A fuse is blown. I unplugged the large transmission connector by the shift linkage on the transmission and the fuse is still blowing. Is there anything else I would need to unplug to try and isolate the issue from internal or external of the transmission?

 

OK, thats more like it, good work in finding this

Yes, fuse #41 also powers the O2 sensor heaters and the EVAP Vent solenoid

Check O2 sensor wires they are near exhaust pipes so can melt and short out
Each O2 has 4 wires
Heater 12volts, light blue/orange stripe wire from fuse #41
Heater Ground

Sensor +
Sensor -

The heater wires can melt and short together


This would explain the shifting issues, no power to solenoids

 

I just want to say thank you very much, a few days ago I bought a 2003 ranger at a reduced price, according to the owner the transmission was damaged, at first I used an obd2 scanner and it seemed strange to me that it turned out with 10 or more codes exclusive to the transmission, I thought that the wiring harness would be damaged, but ooohh! I found the solution when I found your post about fuse #41, you have saved my life! Thanks a lot