Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

Limited Slip 95 2.3 ranger

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Old Dec 1, 2017
  #1  
Robotdestruct's Avatar
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From: Idyllwild
Limited Slip 95 2.3 ranger

Has anyone put Limited Slip in a 95 2.3 extended cab ranger?

Where I live gets some snow/ice and I wanna know if that’s an option. I know I should get a 4x4 but if this will help me on some of the inclines I’m gonna have to do daily, id rather go this route.

Did you just swap an axle?

If so, can you point me in the right direction of where I can search for the axle or the set up for my current axle?

do any of these photos tell me the axle size? I see that it tells me my ratio.





Thanks foe for your time.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2017
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From: Vancouver, BC
Yes, easiest way is to swap the whole rear end

1993 to 2011 Ranger axle will work, 7.5" or 8.8" doesn't matter, you will have a 7.5" with 2.3l so another 7.5" would be easiest

Look here to see what you have now: Ford 7.5 & 8.8 Inch Axle Tag & Door Codes

Drivers door sticker will tell you
Because you also want to Match the Ratio, i.e. 3.73, 4.10, or your speedometer will be off.
But you can change the gear on the speedometer shaft, up to 1997 Ranger used speedometer gear in the transmission, easy to change to match new rear ratio
 
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Old Dec 1, 2017
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From: Idyllwild
Originally Posted by RonD
Yes, easiest way is to swap the whole rear end

1993 to 2011 Ranger axle will work, 7.5" or 8.8" doesn't matter, you will have a 7.5" with 2.3l so another 7.5" would be easiest

Look here to see what you have now: Ford 7.5 & 8.8 Inch Axle Tag & Door Codes

Drivers door sticker will tell you
Because you also want to Match the Ratio, i.e. 3.73, 4.10, or your speedometer will be off.
But you can change the gear on the speedometer shaft, up to 1997 Ranger used speedometer gear in the transmission, easy to change to match new rear ratio

Awesome Ron.

Okay its a 3.73 ratio and axle is a 7.5.

So the hunt is on. Now, if I have no luck finding an axle, do you prefer and know of a reputable retailer for a limited slip kit, Ron?
 
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Old Dec 2, 2017
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I am all for DIY but when swapping ring/pinion gears a certain skill set and tools are required.
Swapping the whole axle is just basic wrench work

I would call local shops and get their pricing, parts and labor, they will warranty it if they supply the parts.
Also ask labor only if you supply the parts, they will need to know what parts you would supply, model numbers, there would be no warranty

It doesn't take much shop time to do the work
Pull wheels and drums
Drain differential remove cover
Remove axle clips, pull out axles
Remove open differential
Remove ring gear from open differential and install it on L/S differential
(if pinion gear seal is leaking you may want it changed now)
Install L/S differential, and the skill part, reshim ring pinion and axle alignment
Install new axle seals, for sure, maybe new bearings, up to shop or you
Install drums and wheels
Install cover with new gasket
Fill with gear oil and Friction Modifier needed for L/S


When a vehicle goes around a corner the wheel and axle on each side needs to rotate at a different speed, inside wheel turns slower than outside wheel
This is why OPEN differentials are used, they allow for separate axle RPMs inexpensively, and work fine for 99% of drivers

Ford Limited slip uses clutches to detect RPM differences, the Friction modifier in the gear oil allows the clutches to slip when cornering, without it the outside tire on a corner will start to "chirp" and you will feel a tug as the outside tire is held from turning by the slower RPM of the inside tire, so outside tire is dragged on and off as you turn.
If the RPM of one axle gets to different from other axle, i.e. tire is slipping/spinning, then the clutches force the other axle to a closer match to spinning wheels RPM, so power is diverted/transferred from spinning wheel to non spinning wheel
OPEN differential transfers all power to easiest wheel to spin, so not great in slippery conditions.

Lockers are different than limited slip, they are controlled by the driver with a switch.
They mechanically lock both axles to the same RPM, so equal power on both axles, but limited cornering when in use, you could break an axle if used on high traction road.

A pickup trucks biggest issue in snow or mud is lack of weight over the driving axle
Front wheel drive vehicles are better in snow, even with OPEN differential simply because they have the weight of the engine on drive wheels AND...........laws of physics shows it is easier to PULL a weight thru the snow than to PUSH a weight thru the snow.
4WDs biggest advantage comes from getting Front Wheel Drive, lol, getting weight of the engine over drive axle and PULLING force vs pushing force.

So even with L/S you will want to put some sand bags in the bed between wheel wells and tail gate, and put up a board between sand bags and cab, you don't want sand bags coming thru back window in a sudden stop, lol, flat ruin you whole day


No, can't say which L/S or locker would be best, I have had Fords L/S on my Rangers and have no complaints.
I have been stuck on ice even in 4WD, but tanks slide off the road on ice so it happens

Studded tires or at least Snow tires are needed when temps are low, all season tires are just 3 season tires, for the rubber to last it needs to be hard when it warns up during summer driving, when temps get down under 40degF the rubber gets way too hard and traction is almost 0
Snow tires have rubber that stays soft in cold weather, but that rubber will wear out fast in the summer
 

Last edited by RonD; Dec 2, 2017 at 12:06 PM.
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Old Dec 4, 2017
  #5  
Robotdestruct's Avatar
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From: Idyllwild
Originally Posted by RonD
I am all for DIY but when swapping ring/pinion gears a certain skill set and tools are required.
Swapping the whole axle is just basic wrench work

I would call local shops and get their pricing, parts and labor, they will warranty it if they supply the parts.
Also ask labor only if you supply the parts, they will need to know what parts you would supply, model numbers, there would be no warranty

It doesn't take much shop time to do the work
Pull wheels and drums
Drain differential remove cover
Remove axle clips, pull out axles
Remove open differential
Remove ring gear from open differential and install it on L/S differential
(if pinion gear seal is leaking you may want it changed now)
Install L/S differential, and the skill part, reshim ring pinion and axle alignment
Install new axle seals, for sure, maybe new bearings, up to shop or you
Install drums and wheels
Install cover with new gasket
Fill with gear oil and Friction Modifier needed for L/S


When a vehicle goes around a corner the wheel and axle on each side needs to rotate at a different speed, inside wheel turns slower than outside wheel
This is why OPEN differentials are used, they allow for separate axle RPMs inexpensively, and work fine for 99% of drivers

Ford Limited slip uses clutches to detect RPM differences, the Friction modifier in the gear oil allows the clutches to slip when cornering, without it the outside tire on a corner will start to "chirp" and you will feel a tug as the outside tire is held from turning by the slower RPM of the inside tire, so outside tire is dragged on and off as you turn.
If the RPM of one axle gets to different from other axle, i.e. tire is slipping/spinning, then the clutches force the other axle to a closer match to spinning wheels RPM, so power is diverted/transferred from spinning wheel to non spinning wheel
OPEN differential transfers all power to easiest wheel to spin, so not great in slippery conditions.

Lockers are different than limited slip, they are controlled by the driver with a switch.
They mechanically lock both axles to the same RPM, so equal power on both axles, but limited cornering when in use, you could break an axle if used on high traction road.

A pickup trucks biggest issue in snow or mud is lack of weight over the driving axle
Front wheel drive vehicles are better in snow, even with OPEN differential simply because they have the weight of the engine on drive wheels AND...........laws of physics shows it is easier to PULL a weight thru the snow than to PUSH a weight thru the snow.
4WDs biggest advantage comes from getting Front Wheel Drive, lol, getting weight of the engine over drive axle and PULLING force vs pushing force.

So even with L/S you will want to put some sand bags in the bed between wheel wells and tail gate, and put up a board between sand bags and cab, you don't want sand bags coming thru back window in a sudden stop, lol, flat ruin you whole day


No, can't say which L/S or locker would be best, I have had Fords L/S on my Rangers and have no complaints.
I have been stuck on ice even in 4WD, but tanks slide off the road on ice so it happens

Studded tires or at least Snow tires are needed when temps are low, all season tires are just 3 season tires, for the rubber to last it needs to be hard when it warns up during summer driving, when temps get down under 40degF the rubber gets way too hard and traction is almost 0
Snow tires have rubber that stays soft in cold weather, but that rubber will wear out fast in the summer


Well,

I decided to just sell it after all Ron.

If I can get your opinion. Through a mutual friend, I have the opportunity to purchase a red 2001 xlt supercab 3.0 4x4 ranger. It has 150,000 on it, exterior and interior look great. No noticeable oil leaks, engine sounds great at idle. No pings or knocks that I can hear. Price is $3000. Any enthusiasts have any opinions on the 2001 3.0?
 

Last edited by Robotdestruct; Dec 4, 2017 at 10:54 PM.
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