Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

Need tranny!

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Old 08-05-2018
lilredwuck's Avatar
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Need tranny!

i have a 2004 XLT 2x4 2.3L engine w/manual trans. I called a local junkyard, and they said they would need the VIN just to make sure it would even be the right one for my vehicle???
i need something now, what is interchangeable with a 2004 manual? Years? Anything info would help
 
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Old 08-05-2018
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Ford used 2 different 2.3l engines with different transmission bolt patterns.

Your 2004 2.3l is the Duratec engine, with an M5OD-R1 manual transmission with bolt pattern that only fits 2.3l Duratec engine.
Rangers or Mazda B2300 from 2002 to 2012 with 2.3l engine will work, these were all 2 wheel drive so no 2WD/4WD issues

M5OD-R1(M5R1) is the "model" of transmission NOT what it will fit, thats why "they" want the VIN, it will tell them the correct engine so they can match bolt pattern.

Heads up, when transmission is out you should change the rear coolant line connection, only way to get at it is with transmission out
Also change rear main seal, they are cheap, and only way to change it is with transmission out
And obviously any clutch work that is needed

The M5OD-R1 manual transmission was used in all Rangers and Mazda B-series with all engine sizes and in 2WD or 4WD setups from 1988 to 2012, it is a good reliable transmission, surprised you need another one
These do use ATF, yes automatic transmission fluid in a manual transmission, so heads up on that as well, NO gear oil!
 
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Old 08-05-2018
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Good idea to clean the egr while its out too, its another thing on the duratec that cant be accessed without removing or at minimum lifting the rear of transmission.
 
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Old 08-07-2018
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Once I figured out where the EGR valve was located, it’s been sitting behind the seat for months. I just had the slave pump in the tranny replaced. The clutch a few months before that. I think the gasket failed or got pinched when put in. I got in one day and like any other day took off only to find it grinding second, but going in after it grinded. So I just didn’t use second. I’m disabled, so my wife checked the fluid level. 15/16 socket and ratchet. 1 1/2 quarts low. Fills it up. Second still grinded. Needless to say, the seal finally went, the truck started violently shaking, then poof a three lane wide cloud of black smoke came out and it stopped shaking. I got to worksite 0.3 miles away. Through choppy translation, he said it was shot and I had cracked the casing. I then drove it to bosses house 5 miles away, instead of towing 60 miles home. It shifted fine, (except 2nd) when there was no to little fluid? It also had little power, and I couldn’t go over 50 without it shaking again.

Long story short, the one at junkyard had 1 that I needed. I had given her the VIN, and it worked. $378 out door, 114k miles on it, 90 day parts warranty, but 2-3 days to get. I guess it’s at sister facility.
My truck has 179,953 miles on it. I didn’t have a check engine light on until my bosses mechanic worked on it. I didn’t have a tranny problem except for 2 slave cylinders and 1 clutch. And I ABUSED that red headed step child of a truck.
Bought it with 6k miles on it for $10k. I needed a work truck. Wrong color as I HATE red, but damn hell of a price break. The same blue one (except automatic) was $6.5 more.
Long story short I used to haul up to ( I hated it) but 5x 55 gallon barrels of saltwater, rocks, fish tanks, etc for 8 years. Been a really good truck no major issues until now besides maintanence. Cracked radiator, exhaust broke, and something I can’t remember but it had to do with spark. Wasn’t the distributor, wires, plugs, but it was a $90 part. All I remember.
 
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