I have a problem with my transmission. Its a 99 4.0 automatic. Its started shifting hard from 1st into 2nd gear and flashing OD light. I checked all selenoids and they gave the accurate range to be good. I put it all back together and now my first gear won't work. It takes off in second gear. Scanner gave speed sensor A so i changed that and still that and still not working. A secondary code for transmission range sensor popped up and am wondering if changing it will give me my first gear back. Much appreciated help.

 

Need the exact codes you had or are getting now

Ford OBD2 code list here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...trouble_codes/
P0700 to P0804 are the basic transmission codes, so guessing is out of the question, lol

The solenoid is the electrical part but its opening and closing Valves inside the valve body, the mechanical part
A "circuit" code can mean a solenoid's external wire has failed OR it's internal coil wire has fail

A solenoid is just a coil of wire around a metal core, when you pass 12volts thru it it becomes an electro-magnet, which can pull in a metal part to open or close a valve its attached to
Transmission Solenoids all get 12volts from same wire with key on, then each has its own ground wire that runs back to the computer
Computer is programmed to "look for" that 12volts with key on, if its "sees" the 12volts then wires/solenoid is OK, its passing 12volts thru it
Computer can then Ground each solenoid to activate it, to move its valve, and computer should see a spike and drop in voltage as the solenoid is activated, confirmation solenoid is working, magnetizing

Computer has engine RPMs, and it has Speedometer(wheel RPMs)
So it can calculate what ratio(gear) the transmission is in, it activates and deactivates solenoids to chose a ratio(gear)
Problems here are mechanical if the wrong ratio is seen, solenoids can be working but the valves are not working, or bands and clutches, are not

This is why exact codes are needed, to try and diagnose if its an electrical or mechanical issue

 

Oh ok. First it gave me a p0500 code and I changed the sensor. With that marked as secondary code was p0705. I haven't changed the range sensor because i want to check my wiring and connectors first to discard any issue there. ( its been raining 3 days straight) i can shift into 1st gear manually but it wont engage. It remains in 2nd. I know first gear works because when i take off in second, as soon as it's suppose to be "switching to 2nd" 1st gear engages for a second then goes back to 2nd, all other gears are ok. Im at a loss man

 

Thanks a lot man i thought nobody was gonna answer.

 

Forgot to mention I've checked all the selenoids and they all click and have good amps on the meter.

 

You would get a code for the specific solenoid if it was bad


P0500 for lack speed at the computer, and there is no speed sensor in a 1998-2000 Rangers
In those years ford used the rear axle ABS sensor, so if that sensor was bad yellow ABS light would also be on, was it?

P0705 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit malfunction (PRNDL Input)
This the DTR sensor on drivers side of transmission
I assume you can start the engine, also check if Reverse light work

Park is at one end of shifter, 1st is at the other end, but it still shouldn't prevent 1st engaging in D

Good read/look at what the 4Rs and 5Rs are using in each gear: https://atracom.blob.core.windows.ne.../2003_5_50.pdf

Looks like only solenoid 1(A) is needed, if solenoid is working then maybe the valve it operates isn't

 

ABS light did not come on unless my bulb is out. Would i get a warning on a scanner for that? Im proud to say im the only owner of my ranger. I lost reverse ten years ago and replaced everything in there while we were at it. I'd think bands and clutches are doing good still. Didn't have metal on my pan or magnet this time.
How would i go about checking or changing this valve? Could it be my selenoid isn't closing completely?

 

Yellow ABS light should come on with key on and then go off, that's a bulb test, all dash warning lights should do that bulb test with each key on

No, you would get a code for that solenoid if it wasn't working like it should

How far have you driven it since this happened, i.e. has transmission been fully heated up, 20+ mile drive

 

My bulb is out then. I've been driving it these couple days about 20 miles and still no change.
Im now thinking of buying a used transmission and just swapping it. I can get one for about 5oo bucks with 1 year warranty. Do you think it be cheaper than the actual fix on the one i have? I was watching a video on changing the valve body and i think i can do it but changing the whole thing seems a little easier. Either way ill never let this ranger die. Sorry took awhile to get back to you been working late.

 

Judgment call there, don't have a crystal ball, lol, wish I did

But you can use a 5R55E automatic from a Ranger 4.0l or Mazda B4000 all the way up to 2011 in a 1998-2000 Ranger 4.0l
Matching 2WD or 4WD of course
The 2001 and up 5R55E got an extra bolt hole in bell housing, but other 6 still match up, and 2 extra external sensors but you just don't need to hook them up since your 1999 computer doesn't need them
So if you can get a lower mile model from later years then it will work

But used is USED, lol, so no history on service in any year