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What I can see is an FPR not a Damper, damper only has vacuum line NO fuel line
You need TWO fuel lines in the engine bay to use that type of Fuel Rail, and 2000 computer would like the 30psi fuel pressure, so instant LEAN codes all the time
You will probably need to get a 2000 lower and upper intake with fuel rail if you only have the ONE fuel line, 2000 computer also needs the higher pressure(55psi) that was used with the single fuel line system
The second picture is the top left where the other threaded connection would be on the 97 rail.
I also scrubbed down the other part and pulled part # F87E-9f775-CA. I'm getting massively conflicting information searching around, some places are calling it a regulator, some places are calling it a damper, and I found one on amazon made by Herko where they actually call it both.
Just looking for confirmation before I order a new synchronizer. I believe there is a 1997 (Hall effect) Cam synchronizer in the engine with a 2000 cam position sensor smashed on top of it.
This is what I have in there at the moment
And if this imagine is correct, then I have a 97 Hall effect synchonizer instead of a 2000 VR synchronizer installed at the moment, I have the sensor in hand and it is for sure a 2 wire VR sensor for a 2000
For the sensors Hall effect was 3 wire, VR was 2 wire
Hall effect is square wave DC volts, VR is sine wave AC volts, so totally different signals, not just a wiring change
Ranger V6 engines started switching over to VR in 1999, so yes, 2000 engine Computer would need the 2 wire VR sensor pulse
And yes the synchronizer tower was different between the two types
Well, I THINK we did it Ron, the synchronizer came in today and I picked it up and got it installed along with the new injector, other cleaned/refurbed injectors and new gaskets. I couldn't let the truck run for very long, I had drained the radiator thinking I was going to change it but decided to just do a flush instead so it has no coolant but for the 2 minutes it was running, it ran WAY better than before. I'll have to take it through some drive cycles tomorrow and see how things go and if the synchronizer actually starts to do its job.
The synchronizers are actually different lengths, the 2000 is slightly longer, maybe 1/4" or so, but it did fit in the 2000 engine and I didn't hear any awful noises so I hope it's fine.
I also found out the best way to remove a seized synchro is to remove the hood and use a seal puller on a slide hammer, after fighting with it for ~3 hours, one wack from the slide hammer popped it out.
It was stuck enough that I broke the aluminum wall of the top of the sensor with a pair of needle nose vise grips.
I finished buttoning up the cooling system this morning and let it idle up to temp then took it out to fill it up with gas, I'm letting it cool now then I'll take it back out to get anti-freeze to finish the flush but for now, it's running like a brand new truck fresh off of the lot. The transmission is still hot garbage, slipping around 2-3, hesitating in drive from a dead stop, sometimes banging in to gears, O/D light flashing from time to time. From what I have read it seems like I might need one of these rebuilt kits
05-31-2020
