So i decided to reuse the same gear ratio on my 8.8 rear end, now my question is mainly about the pinion itself and all the shimming involved. Being as I'm using the exact same ring and pinion and nothing has changed could i just measure the previous shims with a caliper and put in the new ones that came with my rebuild kit. The reason i ask is because it looks like setting pinion depth is fairly tricky and very expensive with the tools. i suppose worse case scenario i have a machinist help me out, but id rather not so help would be appreciated.
Thanks much guys

 

So what are you trying to do? Are you putting in a L/S in?

If you're reusing everything the pinion will be ok if you don't touch it. mark which shims go on what side before removing them. you can re-use your shims if they're not broken.

 

I'm doing an explorer 8.8 swap. I bought a complete rebuild kit from ford racing so i did take the pinion out to replace the bearings, races and shims. However if i replace the shims with newer ones of the same thickness i cant see why that would pose a problem but thats why im asking, and ya its a LS i just rebuilt.

 

you'll have to go through the whole process to be safe then.

 

So you're thinking I'm going to have to set pinion depth all over again? I've got all the shims replaced with newer ones in they're proper place and they're all correct nothing is out of order, all measurments are the same and everything will be shimmed the same. Wat do you think?

 

You will need to at least check your teeth engagement before you finish reassembly. Also the drag on the pinion bearing is critical to its life. So it need to be set correctly.

 

oh ya that i can do thanks bud! I just lacked the tools to set depth and they're pretty pricey.

 

When I rebuilt my 04 Levell II I reused all shims. Double checked/set bearing preload (used two crush sleeves til I got it right, then new pinion nut for final assembly), checked pattern, all were within spec. Yours might not, but mine were, you just have to check.

That was about 35k ago and all is well.....knock on wood!

 

Summit has a kit for under 100 last time I checked, not sure if that's pricey or not but it was the cheapest I could find.

 

ya i seen the kit on jegs and summit but id rather spend that 100 plus on my brakes and other stuff i need to complete this rear end. I just planned on reusing the shims and setting bearing preload and checking the teeth so wish me luck guys im going to try and finish it today.

 

should of just got mustang brakes for your 8.8 lol

good luck though!

 

thats the plan dangerranger01 told me about them, i got the bracket coming in the mail from currie Currie Enterprises Racing Rear End Categories so yup just playing the waiting game. but ya cant wait mustang cobra svt brakes gonna be awesome!

 

If you are using the same housing, ring and pinion and carrier just reuse all the old shims, tighten the pinion down using a new crush sleeve to 16-29 in/lb and torque the bearing caps down (aarows pointing outward, on the same side they were) to 77lb/ft and youre good to go.

you will need a lb/ft torque wrench and a bram style 1/4" drive in/lb torque wrench with a 1/4-3/8 and 3/8-1/2 adapters so you can use your 1 1/16 socket to check turning torque of the pinion

 

dosent sound to hard at all well after i get off the phone with currie im headed down to get the main bearing pressed into place on the pinion then hopefully its easy sailing

 

Hey can anyone out there help me convert in/lbs to ft/lbs? My torque wrench wont go low enough in in/lbs to set bearing preload and i cannot find a beam style torque wrench anywhere in town. I figure if i can convert in/lbs then i should have it. I have to be between 16- 29 in/lbs i was going for 23 in/lbs so if you guys can help me out id be very grateful. thanks

 

12 inch lbs = 1 ft lbs

 

couldnt agree more

 

easier said than done that bram style torque is what im looking for but i **** you not i cannot find one over here at all. All i can find is either digital which is what i got and a click type which looks like what ill have to use anyone ever set preload with a clicker?

 

i do it all the time with a clicker, works fine. just continually check it so you dont over tighten. it doesnt have to be perfect, you have that range that Justin posted. Just take your time and you will hit it.

I use the clicker and shoot for 21-22 inch pounds of drag on 8.8s

 

alright thanks, ill go buy one tomorrow. A friend let me borrow his smaller torque wrench which was digital as well and that thing would not read at all, it would skip from 16 to 40 and higher it was hardly consistent at all, so as a result i messed up my ring so ya most definetly appreciate the feedback and ill give it a whirl tomorrow morning. later

 

i have the jegs pinion depth setting tool if need to use it let me know we can probley work out a deposit or something