I have been reviewing old posts on doing clutch replacement. Several people have mentioned removing the transfer case before removing the transmission. I have always removed the transmission and transfer case as one unit to reduce disassembly time. I have a tool for my floor jack that converts it to a transmission jack so the combined weight should not be a problem. Is there something else I should be concerned about when removing the transfer case and transmission together?

Something else that was mentioned was getting a gasket for the single pipe connection on the Y-pipe. When I inspected the underside, I saw this would most likely be needed and planned to get one. What I am not sure about is the two connections at the front of the Y-pipe. Are they the reusable type gaskets/seals?

 

I took off my tcase for ease of removal of the trans...I also had the jack, but taking off the tcase made it lighter. I did of course, break a bolt when I took off the tcase...had to drill that out and replace.

As for the Y pipe, that was my HUGE PITA! I did get new gaskets for the lower connection, $$$ from Ford but no way it was reusable.

If I remember correctly, there was no gasket on the upper connections, they were a flare type fit, could be wrong though.

HOWEVER, DO NOT FORCE THOSE UPPER NUTS!!!! I broke the studs on those upper connnections, took about 4 hrs and entire oxyacetylene tanks to get those busted studs out. The alternative would have been to remove the manifolds to get the studs out, thankfully that was not necessary. Next time I do this, I will heat the nuts with the oxyacetylene before hammering on them! Heat will be your friend if you have any rust on those things!

Also, the studs are not cheap from Ford, but you may need to replace them.

 

Thanks for the information Carl. I think I will get a transfer case gasket just in case there is a problem removing them together.

I think you are right about the front Y-pipe connections being the flare type. The Ford repair manual does not say to throw the gasket away like they do for the rear Y-pipe connection.

Being in So Cal, I usually don't have a problem with frozen nuts. However, since the exhaust nuts get heat oxidation and they have been on there for over 100,000 miles they may be a problem. I plan to use a good penetrant and let it soak overnight then hit it again before removing. That usually takes care of it. I really don't want to waste time on replacing studs.

I was surprised to see in the repair manual that you should throw away the bolts and washers for the drive shafts. Then I saw later, if new fasteners are not available you can use a thread locking sealant on the old ones. Apparently, they prefer you to buy new bolts with locking seal already on it instead of using Locktite. A good source of profits.

 

I live in northern Wisconsin. Frozen nuts are very common here. Insulated pants do help