This is Larry again...
my transmission is slow to go into drive better in reverse sometimes goes in with a bang. Much worse when cold. I read somewhere where I need a new pressure control regulator and a fluid change. Fixing to do the fluid and filter change got the Best synthetic fluid you can buy i’m hoping to find a plug filter I’ll be at probably not my luck. While I’m in there should I do anything else?
I know I need to adjust the bands and replace the neutral safety switch but I believe that’s done on the outside is it not? Anybody had this experience I would appreciate your knowledge.

 

Welcome to the forum

Your symptoms are way to general to say "this is the problem"

All automatics run on fluid pressure, they just have one set of gears used to vary ratios
This is done with clutches and brakes(bands)
The pressure engages and disengages clutches, and applies the brakes on parts that shouldn't move when clutch has disengaged that part

The fluid pressure comes from the only pump, main/front pump, it is attached directly to torque converter so spins at engine RPMs, increasing RPMs increases pressure, so if REVing engine helps engagement then it is a pressure issue

The valve body routes this pressure to the correct clutches and bands, in the "old days" this was done with springs and *****, and cables and engine vacuum
Electric solenoids have replaced these for better shifting, the solenoids control the valves that send pressure where its needed

There was also a fluid pressure(EPC) valve added to prevent seal/gasket blowouts, too much pressure, which was a problem in the "old days"
Yes, if this fails that can lower pressure, but..............all these solenoids are monitored by the computer, so if one is not responding correctly it will set a transmission code, P07XX
Many code readers don't see these codes, if OD light ever flashes then there are transmission codes set, get them.

After you drop the pan inspect it for debris, plastic or metal bits, if found then you will need a full rebuild, the rotating part of the transmission has a problem

If its clean then you may want to swap out Valve body and separator plate
You can test solenoids with ohm meter, look here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/2-3l-2...engage-156898/

 

Well I think I’ve got the final word on these 4R & 5R and AOD transmissions as far as delayed engagement goes. Over the last two weeks I have done much research learned that there are several TSB‘s and different opinions as to what causes this problem nobody seems to really know or have solved it. Some folks say what they did helped but nobody has said they fixed it. So yesterday I dropped the pan cleaned everything out took the valve body down and inspected it. Someone had already replaced the separator plate with the updated version and I put a new pressure valve in and adjusted the bands. I also put a new neutral safety switch on. There was no debris or metal in the pan as a matter of fact it appears someone had been in there in the not-too-distant past however the fluid was very dirty not burnt just very dirty. I replaced it with Valvoline merc V Synthetic. The results are positive after driving it for two days the delayed engagement has improved to where it don’t clunk when you put it in gear but it still has a couple of seconds delay, worse on a cold morning start. Today I talked to my long time transmission man This guy knows this sh$& if you know what I mean. He told me that this was a Ford problem just like some of the early 2000 Hondas he doesn’t even rebuild them anymore too often he hast to take them back out when the rebuild doesn’t solve the delayed engagement problem. He now buys a remanufactured transmission from a company that warrants both parts and labor he charges about $500 more than other shops I guess that’s to cover the increase cost on the warranty. If the customer doesn’t want to pay his price he tells him to go somewhere else. He also told me to just drive on because he knows of other transmissions with that same problem that have run upwards of 350K miles with that problem. So there you have it gentlemen if you have a tranny with this problem change your fluid and just keep driving do not put an additive in it it won’t help it may even make things worse. I have become somewhat of a Ranger expert in the last month since owning this truck I now know way way way more than I ever wanted to know about it. How to fix AC vacuum leaks Freon leaks brakes and parking brakes, also had to do extensive metal work the truck had taken a hit behind the passenger door even bent the B pillar i went to the scrap yard and cut a panel out and grafted it in and put on a new aftermarket front fender and still have a rocker panel to Weld in. I will try to upload a picture if I can figure out how to do it.

 

Thanks for the update, it should help others

 

My 2004 Ford Ranger XLT automatic transmission has a similar problem. Delay engage, especially on Reverse. I have to switch to 1 -- > 2 -- > D -- > N -- > R then reverse will engage.

Which is a more economical option? Buy a rebuild or rebuild transmission?

Thanks, in advance.

 

I did a lot of research really builds from reputable shops are available for about $1000 I decided to let my transmission man that I’ve used for years build mine he promised to keep the cost under $1500. I trust him so I’m going with that option