Heres what My swap used.

Bellhousing was from a 2.8v6 mustang ( 1988-1989 modle ) . The starter is on the drivers side so re-locating it wasnt a problem. 5 of the 6 bellhousing holes fit perfectly, one was off about 1/16th of an inch. The Bellhousing I used is aluminum so filling/mig-ing it in and redrilling wasn't a problem ( I have all 6 bolts in as of present ).

I used a ' short throw ' shifter ( pro-5.0 ). RedneckStone or anyone else that has driven my truck can say I relocated the shifter itself closer to the driver and in first gear, it sits against my leg ( right where I want it ) .

I did have to cut the floorboard 2 inches. It was NOT because of the shifter itself, but because of the mounting system I used ( at that time ).

The new 4.0 styangs have a T5 in them. This change could be done with all factory parts and a shaft cut/balance at a local shop for 50$ ( or whatever they charge in your area, locally for me its 50$ ).

My clutch is cable driven with a Quadrent adjuster from a regular Fox mustang. It required a VERY SMALL mig spot which I drilled/tapped into ( I could have just used self tapping screws.. but wanted something beefy ).

I run Juice at times and the tranny has held up fine. I DID crack the case on my first T5 and switched to a Wolrd-class model afterwards. I use a 10.5inch HD clutch/pressureplate and throwout. The front is a 10spline shaft and the first gear is set to 2.97.

The reason I went this route.. I had the tranny here ( I have a Liberty 5-speed thats starting to look very juicy right now ) , My factory tranny sorta.. ' broke ' and ford was NOT replacing it under warrenty. It wasn;t ' just the slave cylinder ', it was the main shaft being bent, a chunk of the bellhousing missing where the clutch sorta came ' un-attached '.. *I* wasted it. 550lbft.. my ****. These trannies are made in France and give up easily.

This SHOULD be a very easy swap for ya as the new mustangs are a nice ' parts-bin '

 

*I* wouldn't even THINK of trying such a swap on one of *MY* vehicals. Its not just the tailshaft, its the transfer case, front shaft, the geqaring is totally different, the case flex designs are different as forces will be goin in both directions..

 

Thats something I wouldnt know about. I had my speedo re-calibrated at a local dyno.

I had to move my center consol 2 inches backwards and extend the shifter area about 2 inches as well. Nobody has ever asked me if this was NOT factory as it looks ' right on ' still.

I believe drilling 4 holes in the frame rails and moving the factory member occured.

Well met.

I know its a 157tooth flywheel, I believe internally balanced type. They closed the factory holes and re-drilled them. A SB ford crank has 6 bolts, our engines have 8 on the crank. A factory fly wheel can be purchased now as well as the clutch and other things that were ' made to fit '.

This should be an EASY swap . The only items I can see needing a lot of attention on your part would be the crossmember and shifter. Everythingn else should be from the ' parts bin '. Clutch, flywheel, pressureplate, throwout berring..

What REALLY screwed with a LOT of us that went after things ' early on ' .. superchargers, T5's, performance parts.. we all had to come up with inovative ideas.. now that the mustang has OUR engine, the parts-bin support element is there and BETTER Then what we all rigged-up in the early years.

IF my clutch gives before Im ready to do my project, I'm buying a factory flywheel and clutch. It *should* bolt right in. I believe part of my issues with going through 2 clutches a year is a few thousandths ' off center ' from my flywheel bolt pattern.