Ok, so before someone says "search".... I did. All of the posts were very old or a different situation.
I bought a new Luk clutch with slave cylinder throw out bearing g and pilot bearing under a year ago. Old throw out was roasted. Got everything replaced and was doing great.
Now I am having the same noise (not as aggressive a grinding noise as before, but noticeable)but wasn't having shifting issues till last night. I was at a stoplight just coming off of the interstate from a 30 mile trip. I could not even get it into any gear for at least 15 second's and pumping the clutch the whole time. Finally after some shear force got it into 2nd. Got home with it and it was getting easier to go into gear the whole way.
It was getting stiff then easing up on my way into work this morning but I was not having the same difficulties as last night. Does it sound like the throw out bearing again or could it be the master cylinder not actuating properly. At a bit of a loss.
Thanks in advance.

 

Throw out bearing will only make a noise when clutch pedal is down, that is the only time it is being used.

Is the clutch reservoir full?

How does transmission shift with engine off?

 

Sounds like the problem i had a few days ago. Turns out i had air in the line. i know hard to believe cause my truck ran fine for 5 months then all of a sudden did what your describing. I followed the perfection clutch video for proper bleeding of the ranger clutch check it out it works my only suggestion to there description when you get to the gravity bleed step double there recommendation on how many reservoirs to dump through and when they say pull the master definitely do it! it traps air lie you would not believe!

 

Reservoir is full. Checked it this morning so I had light and wasn't being pelted by hail. And shifting with the engine off is smooth.

 

I honestly was hoping for air in the line. We never removed the master cylinder when replacing everything so I was thinking maybe some air was introduced. But that doesn't explain the slight grinding squeal.

 

If its full probably air in line since it will not go into gear. Id start with rebleding the system.

 

This is stating the obvious, but have you checked your transmission fluid level?

 

I really doubt its throwout bearing the only purpose it serves is to give the clutch a surface to ride on when not engaged so grinding trying to put it in gear just doesn't fit if it was throwout bearing it would do it anytime you press the clutch in gear or in neutral wouldn't matter. The grinding and not going into gear makes me think air in lines if the clutch does not completely release it keeps the transmission spinning it may not be full speed or even enough to get it to move when i had the issue it would roll back on a hill with the clutch pushed in even when i started it in gear but once i pulled it into neutral it would not go back into gear. Back to the not completely releasing if it stays slightly spooled up it will cause the synchros to fight you putting it in gear IE you get a grinding sound. Also did you replace just the clutch disk or the pressure plate to? The factory style was self adjusting and it has to be adjusted back out when installing a new disk that can also cause issues like you describe.

 

Reverse gear is a good tell tale if clutch is fully disengaging the engine/flywheel from transmission.
Start engine in neutral, let clutch out to get trans spinning in neutral, push clutch pedal in.
Reverse has no syncro to smooth transition, so if you get gear grinding then clutch is not fully disengaging flywheel.

 

So I have not had anymore grinding in my clutch lately and have not had any more issues with the clutch disengaging since i re-bled the master-cylinder. SO I must have had air in it. Thanks for the help guys.

 

Good news

 

Your ranger may not have a syncro in reverse but later model Rangers do. I don't know what year this change took place but my 2002 has a reverse gear syncro.