Limited slip differences
#1
Limited slip differences
What is the difference between a limited slip clutch type and a torson t2 limited slip? Looking to add a little more traction to my back tires. I do a lil off roading not alot what do you guys recommend?
I read on here that someone with a limited slip said when one tire was lifted in the air you. Get stuck. Why is that I thought the advantage to them was wen one tire slips it sends power to the opposite wheel.
I read on here that someone with a limited slip said when one tire was lifted in the air you. Get stuck. Why is that I thought the advantage to them was wen one tire slips it sends power to the opposite wheel.
#3
exactly, i was off roading on some loose rock and my back right tire kept spinning and front left spinning in 4 wheel. so im wondering if it be easier to have a limited slip, if its worth it. i just found out that my new rear end isnt as good as i thought so now im trying to get it to be better.
#4
i just found this online at http://www.offroaders.com/tech/limit...ferentials.htm
it cleared up alot of things...
it cleared up alot of things...
#7
yea exactly scramber82, i think thats the best option. i looked at the auburn lockers. ones that can be engaged when i need it. i like that option. much more expensive but worth it i think....the one online i found where i got the questions from is 130 for a clutch engaged limited slip w. 15000 miles on it. worth it? or just use that money towards the auburn lockr or another type locker?
#8
#14
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
Straight up lockers are a little difficult to drive in mid winter in CT.
The back ends are lite enough to slide on their own little lone when both tires are spinning together.
If your are thinking Locker like the Summit one for $400 and the other one for $130 you are over half way there for the Switchable Lockers, which in mid winter can be unlocked if necessary.
Again, more money but a better way to go.
Luck on YOUR choices.
The back ends are lite enough to slide on their own little lone when both tires are spinning together.
If your are thinking Locker like the Summit one for $400 and the other one for $130 you are over half way there for the Switchable Lockers, which in mid winter can be unlocked if necessary.
Again, more money but a better way to go.
Luck on YOUR choices.
#15
the summit one at 400, isnt a switchable one? thats why i was gunna go with the auburn, i believe its switchable. so i can turn it off and just have it open when i dont need it. i like that option. you know where i can pick one up or how much they go for?
so were all in the agreement that the one for 130 isnt worth it?
so were all in the agreement that the one for 130 isnt worth it?
#16
Torsens are expensive new and often hard to find used. Used clutch-type LSDs like Ford's "Traction Lok" are readily available and cheap but are often in need of a rebuild.
#17
The Lock-Right isn't a selectable locker, but an automatic one.
Stolen from the webiste:
“The LOCK-RIGHT's operation is fully automatic. Designed to send the engine power to the wheels with the most traction, the LOCK-RIGHT will help get you where you want to go. While traveling straight the LOCK-RIGHT will lock the axles together similar to a spool. However, when the wheels need to differentiate in a turn, the LOCK-RIGHT will allow the outside wheel to rotate faster to complete the turn. The internal gears on the LOCK-RIGHT will overrun each other to allow this differentiation.
When operating off-road, the LOCK-RIGHT will always send the engine power to the wheels that need it most. For example, if you are rock crawling and one wheel is in the air (complete loss of traction), the wheel on the ground will receive the engine power and keep you going. Whether it be snow, sand, mud, ice, etc... the LOCK-RIGHT will give you the traction you need.”
Basically give it gas and it engages (full lock), let off and it unlocks.
I went for the "more street friendly" No-Slip version from the same manufacturer (Powertrax by Richmond)...same product as the Lock-Right, but with a quieter operation (addressing the above comment from Dave about the Lock-Right "popping" around corners). But you do pay a little more for the No-Slip version.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWT-92-0688-2807/
Stolen from the webiste:
“The LOCK-RIGHT's operation is fully automatic. Designed to send the engine power to the wheels with the most traction, the LOCK-RIGHT will help get you where you want to go. While traveling straight the LOCK-RIGHT will lock the axles together similar to a spool. However, when the wheels need to differentiate in a turn, the LOCK-RIGHT will allow the outside wheel to rotate faster to complete the turn. The internal gears on the LOCK-RIGHT will overrun each other to allow this differentiation.
When operating off-road, the LOCK-RIGHT will always send the engine power to the wheels that need it most. For example, if you are rock crawling and one wheel is in the air (complete loss of traction), the wheel on the ground will receive the engine power and keep you going. Whether it be snow, sand, mud, ice, etc... the LOCK-RIGHT will give you the traction you need.”
Basically give it gas and it engages (full lock), let off and it unlocks.
I went for the "more street friendly" No-Slip version from the same manufacturer (Powertrax by Richmond)...same product as the Lock-Right, but with a quieter operation (addressing the above comment from Dave about the Lock-Right "popping" around corners). But you do pay a little more for the No-Slip version.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWT-92-0688-2807/
#20
I may be wrong..but I don't think OxLocker makes one for the stock frontend. I also have my doubts about ARB making one for the 98+ IFS D35 setup.
Last edited by logan03CO; 07-13-2011 at 11:27 AM.
#21
The Lock-Right isn't a selectable locker, but an automatic one.
Stolen from the webiste:
“The LOCK-RIGHT's operation is fully automatic. Designed to send the engine power to the wheels with the most traction, the LOCK-RIGHT will help get you where you want to go. While traveling straight the LOCK-RIGHT will lock the axles together similar to a spool. However, when the wheels need to differentiate in a turn, the LOCK-RIGHT will allow the outside wheel to rotate faster to complete the turn. The internal gears on the LOCK-RIGHT will overrun each other to allow this differentiation.
When operating off-road, the LOCK-RIGHT will always send the engine power to the wheels that need it most. For example, if you are rock crawling and one wheel is in the air (complete loss of traction), the wheel on the ground will receive the engine power and keep you going. Whether it be snow, sand, mud, ice, etc... the LOCK-RIGHT will give you the traction you need.”
Basically give it gas and it engages (full lock), let off and it unlocks.
I went for the "more street friendly" No-Slip version from the same manufacturer (Powertrax by Richmond)...same product as the Lock-Right, but with a quieter operation (addressing the above comment from Dave about the Lock-Right "popping" around corners). But you do pay a little more for the No-Slip version.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWT-92-0688-2807/
Stolen from the webiste:
“The LOCK-RIGHT's operation is fully automatic. Designed to send the engine power to the wheels with the most traction, the LOCK-RIGHT will help get you where you want to go. While traveling straight the LOCK-RIGHT will lock the axles together similar to a spool. However, when the wheels need to differentiate in a turn, the LOCK-RIGHT will allow the outside wheel to rotate faster to complete the turn. The internal gears on the LOCK-RIGHT will overrun each other to allow this differentiation.
When operating off-road, the LOCK-RIGHT will always send the engine power to the wheels that need it most. For example, if you are rock crawling and one wheel is in the air (complete loss of traction), the wheel on the ground will receive the engine power and keep you going. Whether it be snow, sand, mud, ice, etc... the LOCK-RIGHT will give you the traction you need.”
Basically give it gas and it engages (full lock), let off and it unlocks.
I went for the "more street friendly" No-Slip version from the same manufacturer (Powertrax by Richmond)...same product as the Lock-Right, but with a quieter operation (addressing the above comment from Dave about the Lock-Right "popping" around corners). But you do pay a little more for the No-Slip version.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWT-92-0688-2807/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PiROC...eature=related
#23
#25
https://www.ranger-forums.com/showth...f+guide+review
For the front you don't have many options, I think Aussie stopped making their unit for the D35 IFS (98+).
Since I hear having a locker up front is a little "interesting" in snow...I have been looking at getting the relatively new (and long awaited) T-2 L/S unit from Torsen (Part # 975420-0207B) for the front diff:
http://s300909324.e-shop.info/shop/a...75420-0207B%26
Install thread here:
https://www.ranger-forums.com/drivetrain-tech-37/torsen-lsd-front-diff-install-107198/
A while ago I exchanged a few PM's with a member that had the L/S Torsen unit installed up front and here is a few additional comments he told me:
"I'm really pleased with the Torsen ,when driving in 2wd you can't feel any difference in the steering it’s just like an open diff, when in 4wd it works very well if you get 1 wheel off the ground it will send the torque to the other wheel and you can still make hard turns without any binding unlike a full locker... I had a local shop do the install, it took them just under 5 hrs, they pulled the right wheel and slid the diff housing off the left axle without removing the wheel from the truck."
Last edited by logan03CO; 07-15-2011 at 05:39 AM.