Transfer case???? - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

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  #1  
Old 08-26-2007
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Transfer case????

Ok well driving up to New Hampshire everything is going well. I went 200 miles and used a 1/4 of a tank of gas going up hill the whole way with some wood and coolers in the back. i think a cover for the bed is in order. but then getting off the exit I put it into 2nd start to roll through the sign and then BOOM it stops moving and the engine is revving and again it bangs and starts to move and then another boom as it stops moving again and doesn't start. I think my T-case went and you know what while I've changed out my transmission, rear end, I'm going to get a new drive shaft while I'm at it. I need a one piece anyways. I wanted to change out and get a new transfer case. Get something better but from my searches i can't find anything and well THIS SUCKS. I'd like to get maybe a dana 300 or np205 or something. You guys help me out tell me what I can do and what I can't. I searched but the only things I found were like doubler kits, a stubbler kit, and those were both like almost a grand. I'm just looking a better transfer case with a better low gear on it or something.
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Old 08-26-2007
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1350 and 1354 are the only cases that will bolt up unless you wanna drop a couple grand on an atlas.
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Old 08-26-2007
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ok so I looked up the different, I need to get a BW 1354, it has the right flanges for me. now I have an auto one and I really don't think its worth the effort for me to get a manual one because I don't really need it. the auto one works great. I really wanted to find a different transfer case with a better low gear. Oh well I guess I'll stick with the stock one. I just wanted something better. I'm going to change out the drive shaft though.

Last edited by DaGGer; 08-26-2007 at 09:14 PM.
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Old 08-26-2007
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you shouldn't even consider a 1350......they have the slip yoke for the driveshaft in the t-case instead of in the driveshaft.....

find yourself a manual Borg Warner 1354 out of either a Ranger or Explorer and bolt it up.......

if you are serious about wanting a NP205, then you will need to either swap your transmission with a 2wd tranny, or make yours a 2wd tranny and then custom fab up brackets/crossmembers for a divorced t-case.....and look to spend about $1,500 on the divorced NP205 by itself.....they are highly sought after units.....




I personally don't think it is the t-case.....i would look IN THIS ORDER at these parts before assuming it is a t-case.....(most times if you destroy a t-case, it will leave a hole in it and you will see fluid pouring out......there is no room for broken parts inside the t-case, they will get out!)
- u joints in driveline
- rear end diff
- t case
- transmission

i say the problem is in the first 2 (u joints or rear end...)
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Old 08-26-2007
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OK its not that u joints. I can see all of them and they are fine. the rear end is fine. the sound is coming from the t case. I can hear it. I'm going to get it home and pull the t case. I've replaced the transmission with one with only like 60,000 and the explorer axle has about the same. so the transfer case has 140,000 on it and I think its at its end. I'll check it out first because I'm pretty sure its whats wrong. Now what makes the manual transfer case so much better than the auto one?
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  #6  
Old 08-26-2007
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the manual t-case is better because there is no electrical parts going to it.....you don't have to worry that the electric shift motor will fail when you are in 4wd....you reach down, grab the lever, and throw her in 2wd......
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Old 08-26-2007
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eh, see mine hasn't been bad at all. never once had a problem and I really don't need it. so I'm just going to throw another on in there then. maybe while I have it out I'll see what I can do about painting my rear axle and new transfer case. Any tips or ideas about painting them just so they look new.
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  #8  
Old 08-27-2007
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don't paint your t-case.....it is aluminum.....the bare aluminum disapates heat....the paint will help hold it in......

now the rear axle, paint it all you want, it is steel.......

i would sand off ALL the old paint on the axle, then apply some POR-15 to it so you don't have to worry about it anymore...
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Old 08-27-2007
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ok sounds good. I didn't even think about what it was made out of. OK I figure while I have things out I should take care of them. I just really needed my truck when i put the axle in so I didn't have time to paint it.
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Old 08-27-2007
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yea, the electric shift 1354 are dirt cheap around here and there are tons of them. They hardly ever fail unless like the tranny they are run low on fluid so go ahead and just pick up one cheap at a junkyard and swap it in there. One thing though, keep the electric shift motor off your t-case as a spare for if and when the shift motor fails.
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Old 08-28-2007
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I'm going to keep everything off the old t case that is still in good working order.
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Old 09-02-2007
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UPDATE: Got the truck home, had a friend with a 2006 silerado 4.8L pull it home. did really good pulling my truck actually. the Tow mode is pretty cool. But anyways. got the transfer case out (kind of a pain but not that bad), I have a few pictures for you to look at (sorry I don't own a good camera so its from my phone):

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I know its hard to see but you get the point of its really ****ed up. Can any of these gods of the drive train help me out. Do I need a new transfer case or can I rebuild this one. everything else looks fine but this was ****ed up. I can get more photos of my transfer case and all the parts so you can see how it all looks. I can use my G/F camera and get some good pictures.
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  #13  
Old 09-03-2007
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Bump, come on anyone I need some help
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Old 09-04-2007
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for the price of another t-case from a junk yard I wouldn't even bother messing around with trying to rebuild one... personally I'd like to know how you blew up this one. Did it happen to still be in 4wd with the hubs locked? That would certainly blow it to pieces pretty easily.
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Old 09-04-2007
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No, the hubs are always unlocked. My friend was driving it, he drove it from CT to NH and thats about a 2 1/2 hour to 3 hour drive. They stopped once and this happned as they got off the highway. So it couldn't be the hubs, it just had 150,000 on it and i think it wore through thats all. But yeah i have located another t case for $250 with 41,000 on it so I'll be getting that friday, hopfully on friday I'll be doing quite a few things to it. I want to see if I can get a solid driveshaft and some hurkuliner (SP) and maybe take care of a few places on the truck that have tons of scratches dents.
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  #16  
Old 09-07-2007
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ok well got the new t case in and everything is working great. Glad to have my truck back. its a bit weird to be driving it again. Feels new to drive it. I really want to get started on fixing some other things, mainly the body. I might just see what I can do about fixing the scratches with some buffing and then see if I can blend the paint for where I have a few dents.

By the way, where is the fill plug, i could only find one plug by the back of the case where the motor is? Also, I had this thing on the back of the T case behind where the front drive shaft is located on the case. It looks like maybe a harmonic balancer or something for it. My other one didn't have that. I'll get pictures if you don't know what I'm talking about.

Last edited by DaGGer; 09-07-2007 at 09:46 PM.
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  #17  
Old 09-25-2007
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i think the other plug youre looking for is behind that harmonic dampner. i changed fluid in mine not long after i got it and had to remove it to do the job.
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  #18  
Old 09-25-2007
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Here....on my '01.....You need to pull that rubber counterweight thingy off using a 13mm socket. Once that's off...BAM! there's the drain plug. Up top, mid body toward the right, is the fill hole. It uses a 3/8" rachet to take the plugs out. I used a 3/8 rachet with a 3" extension. Mines painted pink. Be prepared to see some ugly **** brown stuff to drain out of it. I believe the book calls for ATF on our tcases. I run Royal Purple Synthetic in my crankcase, trans, tcase, rear end, powersteering, etc. Hope it helps.

Shane

What you need to take off:


BAM! The shiny one at the bottom is a drain....the pink painted one is the fill.
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Old 09-25-2007
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Glad your back up dagger,. I've had mine off and on so many times over the last couple of weeks that I could do it blindfolded.
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  #20  
Old 09-26-2007
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oh I know what you mean, I can take my transmission off in just under two hours. I hate taking the drive train apart to no end. But things are back together and working great. I'm just about to have the money to get the gears and install kit for my front gears so I'll have 4.10's up front so I can get my 4x4 working again. Can't wait.
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