My red 99 4x4 4L needs a new transfer case cv joint. It's loose, the boot is gone and it clatters when hubs are locked. I've watched how to's and would love some advice on three things.

1) Ordering the right part! What do you call this CV joint attached to the transfer case? This is not the CV joint at the wheels. It's not the ujoint. It has a spiral worm gear in it. Is it the propeller shaft CV joint? "Front Drive Shaft Rearward CV Joint Rebuild Kit"? Just maybe to make sure I don't order the wheel CV...

2) RUST RUST RUST !! Watched several videos and it doesn't look technically difficult. But in Wisconsin, the UJOINT clips and retaining bolts are going to be VERY rusty. I can deal with the clips but the ujoint appears to be attached with tiny 12-13MM bolts? Them's going to STRIP FOR SURE!! How do you get those off without stripping? This looks like high risk for a home mechanic. Service manuals don't talk about rust much.

3) That seems like something you'd want heavy duty. Does anyone know the different brands? Rockauto has SKP, Ultra-Power, and APWI... 1A offers TRQ. They're all $20-$50 but for a precision milled part, expected a lot more.

Finally, complimenting this 2006 how-to for ujoints https://www.ranger-forums.com/engine...-joints-20868/,

 

Its often called a Propeller joint

Yes, common for these to wear out on 1998-2011 Rangers

If bolts are rusted then they will break and you have to deal with that when it happens
Best you can do is to spray them with PB Blaster or other penetrating oil, wait a day and start removing the bolts

No, I don't think there are "heavy duty" versions, I would read reviews on them if available

The Motorcraft ones should be the best, but thats what failed on yours(I assume)................after how many miles?

If rust is an issue where you live then its best to prime and paint any part that you can, lol

Rust comes from oxygen touching bare metal, once its painted oxygen can't touch the metal so no rust
Primer sticks to bare metal, paint doesn't, but primer is not very "hardy"
Paint does stick to Primer, and paint is "hardy"

 

I dealt with this issue about 50K miles ago. After evaluating everything, I decided it was better to buy a new complete driveshaft. It was not that much more expensive than a good quality CV joint and everything was assure to be balanced. If you install just the CV joint, you most likely would also have to have the whole thing rebalanced and that is not cheap.

I think the name of the place I bough mine from was Detroit Axle. That is not Motorcraft but they had good reviews, and I've had no problem with it. I looks to be good quality and I would not hesitate to buy other parts from them again. The cost is about 1/3 the cost from Ford.

 

As a noob mechanic with more time than money, I’ll DIY this job. Detroit Axle is a good lead.

This rig has 180k so I’ll expect to replace u joints, straps, the clunky propeller cv joint and output/ input seals. It looks like leaks may have saved the day. The bolts are coated in oil.

I’ll order the parts and try to share.

 

Adding

greet advice on priming replacement parts in the rust belt

Sldo will look to replace the front differential input shaft seal

 

step 1 ordered parts
APWI FD5201 CV Joint $ 37.79 because it comes with new bolt retainers.
MOOG 43710 (437-10) Universal Joint Strap Kit $ 3.43
MOOG 269 Universal Joint $ 9.74

Now, need snap ring pliers and maybe torx sockets.

 

Here’s an update.

8mm socket snd t20 torx in hand. Found a nice snap on ring retainer pliers from eBay. Received the parts early so I hit the cold garage.

removing bolts was worryingly easy. Three of the propeller shaft bolts turned on wrench weight alone. So we probably had a catastrophic failure in the near future.

marked the shaft with orange primer.

pretty leaky under there.

Rust was only a problem in decoupling the old gear from the transaxle housing. just worked it off.

so here are some pics. Now I regret not buying the entire shaft because this worm gear is NOT coming off that spline. The retaining ring came off easily.

any ideas?

also, the APWI brand came with CHEAP IN-never-out bolts. So I got m8 alloy bolts from the hardware store.

if I can return the $40 propeller I’ll replace the entire shaft. Then will tackle the joints.

as a home mechanic this is probably the biggest job I ever tackled. So far so good except the rusted spline.

some pics might help.

 

My puller wouldn’t pull it after a day of pb and propane heat. This would not have come off without serious tools. He used “blue crescent wrench” looked like acetylene... and a air hammer.

so here are some interim photos of removal.

Comfort first!!! Only holds air for 20 mins so it’s retired from camping

PB PB PB PB PB

Marked with spray paint

Both sides. Also helps see when it’s coming free from housing ( this is not a show truck )

More PB

Chisel is not banging but levering

Success until the worm spline problem

 

Again get help if rusted. Broke my c clamp

ultimately this guy’s video best represents the successful hammer technique . Wear glasses. Don’t use chrome bits.


Broke

Rusty retaining ring removal with small screwdriver

eBay snap-on find. These pliers were perfect! They spread and have pins for ring clips. Sorry out of sequence

 

It’s a real shame. I only have rust colored primer.



it’s only 40 f in the garage so that’ll dry all night.