Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

Transmission clarification

Old Dec 14, 2019
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Jordanchup's Avatar
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From: West Mifflin
Transmission clarification

So I've been search high and low for an answer to my issue and haven't found anything that explicitly addresses it.

Long story short: The trans blew in my 08 XLT. Between rebuilding and replacing, I'm gonna replace the thing.

My issue is finding a compatible unit. What year rangers can I grab an AT from. Also is the AT from the 3.0 compatible with the 2.3 or do I have to grab one specifically from a 2.3?

Also I've read the 2WD and 4WD variants are non-compatible, but not entirely sure on that one.

Thanks.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2019
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2008 Ranger will have the 2.3l Duratec 4cyl engine, these only came in 2WD, just FYI, and yes 2WD or 4WD matters

So you would need a 2001 to 2011 automatic from a 2.3l Ranger or Mazda B2300(same engine and trans), these years used the 2.3l Duratec 4cyl engine

Transmission MODEL is a 5R44E, thats a model number NOT what it will fit
Same model was used in a 3.0l Ranger but it wouldn't bolt to a 2.3l engine, you could pull all the guts out of it and put those in your 5R44E if you wanted to, because its the same model

As far as I know the 5R44E model didn't change in those years, 2001-2011

This website confirms that: https://shiftritetransmissions.com/s...7-up_2-3l_2wd/

Not recommending this place, just used it for compatible years, and the picture is of a 4WD transmission, lol
 
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Old Dec 15, 2019
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Thanks RonD, really appreciate your expertise in the matter.
Went and got the trans assy, gonna try to get it in within a week weather permitting.
Is there any advice you can give before I go off the deep end here?
Would buying an ATSG manual be a good move or a waste of money?

 
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Old Dec 15, 2019
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If you have never done an automatic before then one BIG THING is that you have to install the torque converter into the bell housing and seat it fully BEFORE mating transmission to engine.
You can pull the old transmission off without unbolting torque converter, but you CAN NOT install it that way
But I would unbolt torque converter and pull it with the trans, but its very heavy that way

Short video on seating a torque converter, its easy:

If you do not do this you absolutely will destroy the transmission, i.e. full rebuild to fix the front pump and shafts
Did this 40+ years ago on my first automatic install, ruined a just rebuilt transmission
This is not a Ford thing its an automatic thing

The rest is just wrench work so not sure a manual would help

Bell house should fit flush to engine, do NOT force it using bolts, something is wrong if that is needed
After bolts are snug tight, torque convert should slide forward and bolt to flex plate

There is often a Block plate, thin metal piece between block and bellhousing, don't forget that
Give flex plate a good look for cracks near the crank bolts

Watch for wires at the top side of bellhousing, I have pinched many a wire in my zeal to "get er done", so run your hand around to make sure no wires are between engine and bellhousing
 

Last edited by RonD; Dec 15, 2019 at 10:21 PM.
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