How-To: Change a DOHC 2.3L PCV Valve - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Engine & Drivetrain How-To & DIY articles pertaining to the 'Engine & Drivetrain' in this sub-forum.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 12-22-2010
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 42
How-To: Change a DOHC 2.3L PCV Valve

How to change a PCV valve in b2300 or Ford Ranger. I wrote this up after some misinformation and hope this makes go easier for you!


You will need:
• 7/32” socket
• 1/2 “ socket
• 8mm socket
• socket extensions (12”-28”, whatever you have)
• Jack Stand
• Jack
• 19mm socket for wheel lugs
• Vaseline
• garden hose
• Power Drill
• Ύ” spade bit

1. Undo the Neg. lead on the battery. (Do this to avoid engaging the starter motor with the metal socket extensions.)
2. Jack up the drivers side front and place on jack stand. Undo lug nuts (but do not remove!) before jacking up.
3. Take the lug nuts off and remove wheel.
4. Using the 7/32” wrench/ socket, undo the 3 bolts along the edge of the fender flare.
5. Undo the 2 larger (unsure of size) bolts roughly underneath the headlights.
6. Undo the mud flap (if equipped) with an 8mm socket.
7. Remove mud flap.
8. Directly above the wheel will be (one) ½” nut. Remove this.
9. If there are any barbed connections on the inside of the engine compartment, pull them out of the plastic spray guard.
10. The plastic splashguard is now ready for removal. Manipulate it until it comes out, and make sure none of the bolt clips come off in the process. See photo 1.
Name:  Photo1.jpg
Views: 1377
Size:  151.4 KB

11. You will notice that there is a LOT of sand and crap caught in the recess of the splashguard that juts down at the lowest point of the fender, just above where the mud flap sits. Clean this out. See photo 2 and 3.
Name:  Photo2.jpg
Views: 1330
Size:  104.1 KB
Name:  photo3.jpg
Views: 1333
Size:  190.7 KB

12. Drill 3 - Ύ” holes in this recess using the spade bits and power drill. This will help in preventing rust forming at the bottom of the fender. While you are at it, hose out any dirt on the fender bottom. See photo 4.
Name:  Photo4.jpg
Views: 1327
Size:  173.1 KB

13. Identify the PCV valve (circled in red). It is hard to see, but look for light grey plastic. It will be attached to the black breather assembly that is attached to the engine block directly behind the steering column. See photo 5.
Name:  photo5.jpg
Views: 1352
Size:  211.1 KB

14. Using pliers, or strong fingers, move the hose clamp along the hose towards the firewall, and pull the hose off the PCV valve.
15. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO PULL, PRY, or DISRUPT THE PCV VALVE! As per govt. regulations, most models, especially later years, will have a retention device!
16. Using an 8mm socket attached to extensions, start undoing the first of 8 8mm bolts that hold the breather assembly to the side of the engine block. You may have to move some wiring harnesses and plumbing. Photo 6 is a photo of all the parts.
Name:  Photo6.jpg
Views: 1340
Size:  129.5 KB

17. These will be torqued to about 10-15 ft/lbs, and should come out easily.
18. Remove the breather plate from the engine block.
19. Clean the breather assembly, and carefully remove the black cap that retains the PCV valve. You cannot remove the PCV valve without removing this first. Use a pen knife and work carefully. This is a $15 part from Ford. That’s a lot of beer!
20. If you crack this, you can reassemble it with two-part epoxy. Or buy a new one.
21. Now the PCV valve will pull out. Pull it out.
22. Remove the rubber o-ring from the PCV valve, and retain, it is not included with new valves!
23. I personally would replace the valve, regardless of condition, alternately; you can clean with intake manifold cleaner. Seriously. You have done this much work; it’s time for a new valve.
24. Place o-ring on new PCV valve and insert in breather.
25. Place lock ring do-hickey on breather over PCV valve, and snap into place.
26. Manipulate Breather assembly back through maze of wire in wheel well and up against block.
27. Using a diagonal tightening pattern, tighten the 8mm bolts HAND TIGHT! (Using the socket extensions.) They do not need to be more than 15 ft/lbs.
28. Attach the hose to the PCV valve and slide the hose clamp over the PCV valve.
29. Put all hoses and wiring harnesses back into place.
30. Manipulate the splash guard back into place under the wheel well, and attach all bolts that you had to take out. (I would coat the bolts in Vaseline to ease in removal next time.)
31. Put the mud flap back in place and bolt it up.
32. Insert barbed wiring harnesses into the splash guard on the inside of the engine bay.
33. Re-connect the negative battery cable.
34. Re-install front wheel and put on lug nuts. Tighten while holding wheel from spinning.
35. Lower vehicle.
36. Tighten lug nuts.
37. Yeah Baby! Done!

Last edited by zabeard; 12-22-2010 at 08:22 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 02-27-2012
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Newport CA
Posts: 3
Thanks for the post and pics. What an f'n CHORE! I have a surging idle (mostly when cold) and poor gas mileage. No codes or CEL. Makes me thinkk twice if i should bother with this PCV valve...
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 02-28-2012
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 42
It should only take you about 2 hours, most of my time was spent looking for the damn thing, and making sure I didn't do anything wrong! Have you checked for vacuum leaks?
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-09-2013
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Elberton, GA
Posts: 1
Thank you for the extensive write up and pics. I never would have found the PCV valve without your help. It seems that Ford tried very hard to make what should be a somewhat simple job into a huge headache. Thanks again.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-16-2013
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 1
Nice Thanks!!!!
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 10-20-2013
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Austin
Posts: 7
Icon5

Quote:
Originally Posted by woofer2609 View Post
How to change a PCV valve in b2300 or Ford Ranger. I wrote this up after some misinformation and hope this makes go easier for you!


You will need:
• 7/32” socket
• 1/2 “ socket
• 8mm socket
• socket extensions (12”-28”, whatever you have)
• Jack Stand
• Jack
• 19mm socket for wheel lugs
• Vaseline
• garden hose
• Power Drill
• Ύ” spade bit

1. Undo the Neg. lead on the battery. (Do this to avoid engaging the starter motor with the metal socket extensions.)
2. Jack up the drivers side front and place on jack stand. Undo lug nuts (but do not remove!) before jacking up.
3. Take the lug nuts off and remove wheel.
4. Using the 7/32” wrench/ socket, undo the 3 bolts along the edge of the fender flare.
5. Undo the 2 larger (unsure of size) bolts roughly underneath the headlights.
6. Undo the mud flap (if equipped) with an 8mm socket.
7. Remove mud flap.
8. Directly above the wheel will be (one) ½” nut. Remove this.
9. If there are any barbed connections on the inside of the engine compartment, pull them out of the plastic spray guard.
10. The plastic splashguard is now ready for removal. Manipulate it until it comes out, and make sure none of the bolt clips come off in the process. See photo 1.


11. You will notice that there is a LOT of sand and crap caught in the recess of the splashguard that juts down at the lowest point of the fender, just above where the mud flap sits. Clean this out. See photo 2 and 3.



12. Drill 3 - Ύ” holes in this recess using the spade bits and power drill. This will help in preventing rust forming at the bottom of the fender. While you are at it, hose out any dirt on the fender bottom. See photo 4.


13. Identify the PCV valve (circled in red). It is hard to see, but look for light grey plastic. It will be attached to the black breather assembly that is attached to the engine block directly behind the steering column. See photo 5.


14. Using pliers, or strong fingers, move the hose clamp along the hose towards the firewall, and pull the hose off the PCV valve.
15. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO PULL, PRY, or DISRUPT THE PCV VALVE! As per govt. regulations, most models, especially later years, will have a retention device!
16. Using an 8mm socket attached to extensions, start undoing the first of 8 8mm bolts that hold the breather assembly to the side of the engine block. You may have to move some wiring harnesses and plumbing. Photo 6 is a photo of all the parts.


17. These will be torqued to about 10-15 ft/lbs, and should come out easily.
18. Remove the breather plate from the engine block.
19. Clean the breather assembly, and carefully remove the black cap that retains the PCV valve. You cannot remove the PCV valve without removing this first. Use a pen knife and work carefully. This is a $15 part from Ford. That’s a lot of beer!
20. If you crack this, you can reassemble it with two-part epoxy. Or buy a new one.
21. Now the PCV valve will pull out. Pull it out.
22. Remove the rubber o-ring from the PCV valve, and retain, it is not included with new valves!
23. I personally would replace the valve, regardless of condition, alternately; you can clean with intake manifold cleaner. Seriously. You have done this much work; it’s time for a new valve.
24. Place o-ring on new PCV valve and insert in breather.
25. Place lock ring do-hickey on breather over PCV valve, and snap into place.
26. Manipulate Breather assembly back through maze of wire in wheel well and up against block.
27. Using a diagonal tightening pattern, tighten the 8mm bolts HAND TIGHT! (Using the socket extensions.) They do not need to be more than 15 ft/lbs.
28. Attach the hose to the PCV valve and slide the hose clamp over the PCV valve.
29. Put all hoses and wiring harnesses back into place.
30. Manipulate the splash guard back into place under the wheel well, and attach all bolts that you had to take out. (I would coat the bolts in Vaseline to ease in removal next time.)
31. Put the mud flap back in place and bolt it up.
32. Insert barbed wiring harnesses into the splash guard on the inside of the engine bay.
33. Re-connect the negative battery cable.
34. Re-install front wheel and put on lug nuts. Tighten while holding wheel from spinning.
35. Lower vehicle.
36. Tighten lug nuts.
37. Yeah Baby! Done!
I don't see any clamp at the other end other as in this picture and still is very stuck to it can I just pull it without tearing the rest of the hose?I also broke already the PCV retention ring and can't find one on line...I already wrap it up for the day.But I on line.My romie makes great home wine so $15.00 for the replacement ring will be ok as long I do not break anything else.
Attached Thumbnails
How-To: Change a DOHC 2.3L PCV Valve-photo1.jpg   How-To: Change a DOHC 2.3L PCV Valve-photo2.jpg   How-To: Change a DOHC 2.3L PCV Valve-photo3.jpg   How-To: Change a DOHC 2.3L PCV Valve-photo4.jpg   How-To: Change a DOHC 2.3L PCV Valve-photo5.jpg  

How-To: Change a DOHC 2.3L PCV Valve-photo6.jpg  
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 10-21-2013
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 42
Buy the ring from the dealership, or try rock auto. Remove the breather plate first and try and pull the hose off from the PCV valve, or hold it with some water pump pliers and twist.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 10-22-2013
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Austin
Posts: 7
Icon5 can the pcv retention ring be glue it back?

In your post you mentioned the epoxy as a way to repair the PCV Retaining ring.
I just wanna to put everything back since I already remove the Breather and the PCV Valve which finally came out by just twisting a little bit and then pull it.I guess the twisting did the job of unstucking it from the hose.The breakage it is very small.There's some epoxy around and I really need just to put back the PCV Valve so I can run some other tests.All started when I run out of gas and after filling it up it would run but then after turning off and then tried to started again it won't start.I changed the fuel filter and the fuel pump works. I disconnected the batery cable so to reset the iddle data.After that I run the truck at 50~60 several miles and after that let it sit for a couple of hours, after that I swich it on but it won't start.Any idea?
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 09-12-2015
NewShockerGuy's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: NOVA
Posts: 599
Thank you for this!!

Just replaced mine.. What a royal PITA for sure! Luckily I was removing the intake manifold and figured why not since I am there.

It was definitely needed since the truck had 160k miles on it!

-Nigel
Reply With Quote
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2.3L DOHC Valve train noise NoModYet General Technical & Electrical 0 03-17-2014 09:17 AM
Not cool! PCV valve location... pacodiablo SOHC - 2.3L & 2.5L Lima Engines 8 03-20-2008 05:10 PM
PCV Valve Green Beast 2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech 1 04-19-2007 04:30 PM
PCV Valve on 2.3L pepperman54 SOHC - 2.3L & 2.5L Lima Engines 7 07-08-2006 03:26 PM
PCV Valve on 92 2.3 wanted General Technical & Electrical 4 02-23-2005 03:17 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:20 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.