1) Read the instructions in the first post
2) Follow the instructions in the first post
3) Look at the pictures in this thread
4) If you're still having problems, take a pic and post it, we will try to help

 

my first indication is the old rotors had to come off with a 5lb sledge lol I have but 30k on my rears but over the last few months i ran in to some run out in the rotors. that and they never really spun as free as the fronts there was always some rotor drag. it has not affected the performance of the truck up until the last few months. I got it solved for now but wanted to bring it up.

 

Ford racing Part Number: M-2300-G2 is this the brake kit that will work ? just want to make sure Im on the same page

 

Ok I've got an 05 with an 8.8". I want to swap the drums to disk and I plan to do the gt setup. Can anyone provide part numbers for gt axle to caliper brackets ( the ones that have to be cut to fit around the axle housing) and also numbers for stock flex lines that can be used for gt calipers to factory hard lines . Thanks in advance


Oh just thought I'd share.. The bracket which appears to be f4zz-2c101-a for a gt left side seems to be discontinued, same with the right side.

 

I just did mine last night I listed the part number.

 

I have GT capilers and not the cobra calipers as shown in the write up. Does anyone if the brakes line kit from Currie Enterprizes will work on GT's as well. Ron

 

The write up covers both.

Your best bet for GT axle brackets is a junkyard.

 

Yep they work the mine is a female 3/8th x 24 and the caliper is a 10mm banjo.

The gt and cobra calipers are the same the axle and caliper brackets are different.

 

I am a little concerned about doing this with the stock master cylinder and ABS module. Wouldn't it be a lot different between the disc and the drum?

 

Come on dude. Its only a 3 page thread, and you can't be troubled to read it?

 

Trust me, I have read through and studied it quite thoroughly. I realize that there was a prior mentioning of it not making a difference, but I wanted to know if anyone has had problems in that regard. The only explanation given was that there was going to be the same volume of fluid moved either way. But since the truck was designed for rear drum, wouldn't there be any complications down the road when it comes to a bad panic stop? Given that the discs have a better grab then the drum, wouldn't they be more likely to slide? I don't know and that is why I am asking. I do not want to have some body in a 50k car pull out in front of me and I end up hitting them because all my rear end did was slide. I wanted to be sure that there wouldn't be a downfall that drastic. Like I said, I don't quite know why or how, so would like to know before I get in over my head with doing something like this. I haven't heard anything bad, only good. But I would like to know a little more.

 

Your ABS still works with this swap, nothing to worry about. Panic stops are where discs will make the most difference.

 

Now, I wouldn't run into a clearance problem using the cobra rotors with my stock 16's would I? I would think that there is plenty of room.

 

I have had no clearance issues with my 16s

 

I have the same problem - I just did the conversion this weekend. Disc wobbles badly unless you torque all 5 lugs. Not going on axle flush. I have a 2004 Tremor 4x4 4.0l. What did you do? I verified that I have the right part number discs 1994-2004 Mustang GT. thanks

 

Milled out the center rotor hole 50 thou so it sat flush on the axle flange.

 

I have a 2003 Ranger, 2wd. i have a disc set=up from an 02 mustang. Those of you who have done the conversion on a ranger with antiloc, what did you do to the proportioning valve if anything? on the older , without A/L you could disassmble the stock valve and add an ajustable but it looks to me that you cannot do this now.

thanks
mike

 

I finally got this done about 2 months ago; brake performance is definetly better. I'm having a problem with e-brake though. I have it hooked up, but when I push the pedal down nothing happens. I think I need to make a bracket for the end of e-brake cable sheath to push against (similar to how it clipped to the backing plate on the drum set up). Does anyone have a good pic of something you used that worked well? I rather not re-invent the wheel if I don't have to.

 

Find a buddy that has some steel pipe scrap laying around and search through his pile until you find something with the right inside diameter. I found some steel pipe and cut it down, and ground the ends until it was the perfect length. It took quite a bit of trial and error, and hooking up/un-hooking the cables to get it right. I also bought new cables because one of mine was pretty (rusty inside) sticky. The new cables made a huge difference and they're cheap at Advance Auto Parts.

 

has anyone modified the Proportioning valve on a 2003 ranger to add disc brakes to the back? or did you just leave it alone or did you add the adjustable valve without modifying the proportioning valve.

IS THERE ANYONE OUT THERE WHO CAN ANSWER THIS QUESTION ??????

 

If you read this thread it has been covered a time or 2. Most people do not run a proportioning valve because most have 4 wheel or rear wheel abs that does the proportioning automatically. Some have swapped in expo master from disc brake trucks. Others have added valves and others still have gone to larger f250 masters.

 

Anybody know where to get the cobra set up online? The previous links seemed to be only for the gt ones.

EDIT: Never mind, I looked again and found it. Pays to read.

 

For all future on lookers, Buying the "m2300m kit" from summit and getting your calipers, brackets, and brake pads from Autozone is much cheaper as compared to the "kit" from latemodelrestoration.com. Just in case you don't feel like researching all the way.

 

I used this thead a few times I thought I would give some things that I did one is I used ranger front brake rubber lines you will have to drill the block a little for the banjo bolt to go threw. And the gt rotors have to milled around the axle flange about an 1/8 of a inch to seat properly. I used a dremel. And I also used the ranger front soft line bracket spot welded to the axle. I used these parts s I don't half to special order anything and it turned out pretty clean

 

I'm thinking of using the brakes off a 2010 and newer truck from a wrecking yard, I'm thinking would be quicker, cheaper & have all the OEM parts needed to do the swap, looks like the only issue would be reducing the number of lines (4) to one