How-To: Rear Disc Brake Conversion on Stock 28-Spline Ranger Rear-End
Yes, easiest thing to do is get some round tubing that has an ID big enough to slide over some of the spring on the end of your factory cable, but an OD small enough to be stopped by the part of the cable that originally latched into the backing plate. Cut them to fit and start long and go shorter to give yourself enough engagement with the pedal and still not drag when it's released.
1) If I read the entire thread before opening my big mouth, I would have found your posted solution before I posted the question in the first place.
2) After I posted my question and then decided to actually read the entire thread... at which time I never updated my question saying I had seen this solution.
That being said- I'm not entirely happy with that solution. Sure I think it will work, but I'm more interested in something a little more "factory" looking. I think I saw on the FRF site that someone actually used an explorer cable system for a "plug-n-play" solution. Even know this costs money I think I'd rather go that way. It's more elegant. I'm not super familiar with the explorer, does anyone know which years (if any) would work for this?
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Upstate,SC
I failed to up date my post about checking the rear drum brakes for pressure. I found no pressure at the bleeders. As I bled the rear brakes, I swapped out my vacuum tool for a pressure gauge while the hose was still full of fluid. The gauge is an 0-10 psi gauge and it didn't move when I opened the bleeder.
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