Hello. I am a new member with limited knowledge (including forum-posting lol so apologies in advance for any potential mistakes on subject placement or etiquette — and welcome any relevant advice), and am looking to purchase an OBD2 scanner for use on my 2001, 3.0 Ranger. I've been told I can acquire an adequate and decent one for no more than $50-$60, I just need to be sure it's one that is capable of doing the "learning" on a new crank sensor. The only specific brand I've had suggested to me is Autel, however when I searched them I found several models around that price target with no way to confirm it had the necessary function I was looking for, nor distinguish between other available functions to decide which would be most valuable to me. Any help on confirming what I should be looking for in the product would be greatly appreciated.

 

There is no learning required for a crank sensor.

 

If not this video, then it was a very similar one that convinced me there was a possibility it may have to be relearned. I definitely did not do any research on the one I purchased to verify if it would be necessary since I didn't see any videos on the subject until after it was bought and installed. Is there any reason I should completely ignore the info in video suggesting that relearning may be necessary for some sensors in your opinion?

 

Forgot to include video link^^

 

Sensors just provide data to the Computer(PCM)
The PCM does have "learning" capabilities for some sensors and controls

But an OBD2 reader doesn't, OBD2 is a communication protocol, a "language" like English or Spanish
OBD2 reader sends requests for data to the PCM, the PCM then sends back the requested data, and that's all
This is why they are called "Readers", they read only can't change anything

There are devices call "tuners" that can change PCM software a little

 

Thanks for that explanation RonD. Would it be safe to assume then that a tuner is likely what would be required to perform the function he speaks of in the YouTube video?

 

What is it you are trying to do ?

There is nothing to learn or teach the crankshaft sensor

 

I replaced the crank sensor on it and the only video I'd seen on that job mentioned that the new sensor had to be learned and that without taking in somewhere that had the relevant tech to do it, there were a couple alternative ways that sometimes work: one involved reaching a certain rpm for a specific amount of time, decelerating to a specific lower rpm for a designated amount of time without touching the brakes, and a couple other steps at other target rpm's without using brakes — something unrealistic in this area of San Antonio lol. Alligator Alley in south Florida would be perfect however...

The other alternative process involved disconnecting battery 3 times after and that did at least calm my otherwise high idle (only did that after installing new ckp) down to something more familiar (somewhere around 800-1100 if I remember right). It stalled on me while driving after having driven it for around a week although that consisted of minimal driving up until the day it stake l stalled — and I had just wanted to rule out the learning ior lack of it, being a possible reason for stalling. I've sense however (in part from y'all's comments) decided to focus elsewhere for culprit — including looking into cam sensor/synchronizer, but mainly because when truck was dying on me my oil pressure gauge dropped down to nothing.

The only thing I know for sure is that I currently have crank and no spark. Open to any more advice and appreciate the replies so far.

 

When you turn the key to run, Does the check engine light come on?

When cranking the engine, does the check engine light turn off ?

 

The best I can remember on the most recent time I checked, with the key in the on position I had the standard orange color check engine light on along with the more serious check gauge in a red light, and I have to assume it was referring to oil gauge which was flattened at zero. Same combo of lights appeared when it stalled and died on me while driving — the last night it was operable before now. And as a bit of a side note, when I was recently shopping around for starters on Amazon, I noticed that one of the compatible ones was presented with a bundle deal with the 2nd item being a starter solenoid, and the 3rd item was an oil pressure switch — something I generally wouldn't have expected to be bundled in with the starter and solenoid. Seemed a bit out of place to me but maybe that's giving away my lack of knowledge... is that far less surprising to you all?

Anyway, back to the pressing topic at hand... I've also recently purchased an obd2 scanner hoping maybe it could help me zero in on my no start no spark issue. And the only codes I got out of it before I ran into connection problems were for seatbelt pretensioner and seatbelt pretensioner clips and altho the app for the scanner said those were somewhat common for this year (or perhaps age of?) Ranger, I hope it's not because a recent attempt with a slim him digging around in the door has snagged on a wire to a side impact sensor that theoretically could be on that same circuit? Seems like a secondary problem if it is a problem tho and can't recall seeing a light related to airbags or anything else, and can't check any of those lights atm because....

I've periodically had to plug in a charger to boost my battery back up to cranking level ever since it's been sitting without the chance for alternator to do its part, but even before then once every coyote months when turning truck off and getting out I'd hear a sporadic fast clicking coming from fusebox under hood but hadn't gotten around to chasing it down as it wasn't a constant issue. Now however during this repair endeavor I've noticed something drawing down battery current even without key on and by measuring Amp draw between disconnected negative battery cable and — battery post, I identified 2 circuits in the I/P panel: 26 (battery saver relay, aux. relay box, restraint central module, generic electroic module, instrument cluster) and 29 (radio). Of course those were just the problem ones with the key off...

Once I had the key to on position I again noticed my battery voltage dropping from 12.3ish to 6.7ish and decided to check it with one of the 2 main positive cables disconnected one at a time (one ran to the high current fuse and relay box under the hood and the other to the starter) and found with starter cable disconnected it was fine — altho after disconnecting starter I still had an issue so I tried removing the only fuses/relays labeled for the starter and discovered removing the 50a fuse allowed me to retain battery voltage reading. However, when I tried subbing the 50a fuse for the I/P panel I still had the same problem. With the #11 50 removed tho and battery voltage not dropping I thought maybe now I could still run scanner but realized I needed my instrument cluster on so I tried reinserting #26 on I/P panel and altho I didn't seem to be losing current with it still, I can only assume that the missing 50a that ran ignition switch as well as starter relay may be necessary also for my instrument cluster? as I'm not seeing any check engine lights and can't get scanner to connect.

Do I actually need to consider replacing that whole fuse/relay panel under hood just because of that one bad spot or could I move those wires to an unused spot and try plugging the 50a into it instead, or is there something else I need to check somewhere down/up the line from that point on fuse panel where its corresponding wire is coming from or going to? Thanks in advance!

 

For what it's worth... in case it's relevant in any way I just wanted to add that preceding the ckp replacement, I had replaced my water pump, thermostat, and timing cover gasket — due to a leak in the timing cover gasket. My ckp wasn't failed (altho reading about symptoms of a bad one it may have been on its way out) but was actually misplaced once I had everything back together and that's the sole reason for installing a new one at the time.

 

Also, one more thing I hadn't mentioned before and mainly because I thought it wasn't relevant to the topic, is: my truck has just barely surpassed the 90,000 mile mark and I think it's likely that the majority of parts/components on it are probably still the originals. As stated, I think that's irrelevant but just in case I'm wrong about that...

 

Your check gauges light and 0 oil pressure are both because the engine is not running, not worried about those.

The battery voltage dropping from 12 to 6 with just the key being on tells me your battery is dead, possibly the alternator as well.

A dead alternator would explain the engine dying while driving and all the dash lights coming on.

Get your battery charged and then take it to an auto parts store and have it tested, you should probably also take the alternator in to have tested as well.

 

I had battery tested and it's all good. The battery voltage drop with key on only happened when I left the #11 fuse (starter relay, ignition switch) inserted but remained stable when I pulled that fuse — which seems to indicate to me that it's not related to the alternator or anything else, outside of that circuit. I bought and installed a new ignition switch tonight and thought I was set — that voltage was maintaining with key in and my lights reappeared in my dash — however after noticing them eventually dimming I rechecked voltage and it was down to around 6 again until I pulled that fuse again. After reinserting it continued behaving just as it did with the original ignition switch: dropping by half as long as the key was on with that fuse in place. Turning off or pulling the fuse allowed the voltage to return. Did I seriously kill my new ignition switch already? I had previously wondered if maybe this circuit has a bad or missing ground (perhaps affected with the movement of ac compressor and power steering pump during the recent work I'd done?) but the new switch holding voltage steady for a little while made me think that couldn't be the case. And I'm not sure if the lack of a proper ground would even do that, I'm just reaching here trying to look for any possible connection between this current problem and the recent work I'd done... Regardless, I'm worried that I do need to replace the new ignition switch already since it's acting like the old one now, and since replacing it had restored some of my missing functions on dash. I also had to pull the #26 fuse from the inside panel as it was drawing down battery also once again, except (and just as before) it pulls an Amp or more without the key even needing to be on. There had been times before my recent work although they only happened once a month or less, where I'd here really fast clicking when turning the truck off and removing the key, that sounded like rapid clicking coming from the relays/fuses in the engine bay but the occurrences were few and far between and other than that, I've had no issues with the truck other than the recently addressed timing cover leak. This is my only vehicle and it's really hurting me in a big way right now to not have it running so I appreciate the feedback more than y'all know!

 

If your voltage is dropping from 12 to 6 with just the key on

Either fuse #11 should be blowing, or wires should be catching on fire, or your battery is dead.

Was the battery load tested or just voltage tested ?

 

It also just occurred to me that before I had it towed, I'd tried on several different occasions to start the truck without noticing it sounding any weaker. But when the tow driver dropped it off, my battery was all the sudden dead. If I wasn't having to constantly change it before due to the ignition switch or something affecting it, is there anything the tow driver may have done or tried doing that would explain why this has become a problem all of a sudden?