looking for used welder what should i get ? - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #26  
Old 04-23-2007
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6013s? just out of my own curiosity.. how are they diff than 6010s and 6011s(i know the 11s are used on AC machines)

but ya man, id get a stick welder that is ac and dc... and later on, you can get a scratch start Tig added on to the welder. thats what i will be doing once i move, stick welding is easy, just be sure to wear long sleeves or a leather welding jacket... i wear long sleeve wrangler shirts with a medium startch and it still gets burned thru. ha it looks like ive put cigarrets out on my arms ive been burned so many times from the slag and splatter.

just a tip for stick welding.. with say a 6010 rod.. strike it like a match then pull it away from the metal a bit so it doesnt stick and use a painting motion of back n forth to get a nice looking bead... and if ya mess with 7018 rods.. you just tap the rod agaisnt the metal and with this rod, jus watch the "puddle" and slowly drag it down the metal.. with vertical up use the painting motion tho...

and you can down hill a 6010 for a nice smooth weld. but it wont penetrate as much, but an acceptable weld.
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  #27  
Old 04-23-2007
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Location: Shelbyville, Kentucky
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well, like i said earlier, i've got my fluxcore craftsman 110v welder up for sale! it's practically brand new and i still have all the accessories except for the face shield...but you can get a cheap one for $20 at harbor freight
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  #28  
Old 04-24-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Black Cat

pratice with the stick welder on some 6013 1/8" electrodes. they are soooo easy to run at around 100Amps output on the machine
I saw 1/8 and a smaller diameter at home depot should i usualy use the 1/8"? when would i use the smaller diameter ?

when i join 2 pieces of tubeing should the edge be beveled at an angle too ? i do understand why you need the bevel sometimes but its alot of work to grind the edge onto it so i only wanna do it if i need too.
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  #29  
Old 04-24-2007
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info on 6013 electrodes.

http://www.weldcotemetals.com/dataFi.../teche6013.pdf

when doing a joint prep it all depends on the meterial thickness. 3/16" or 1/4" and up for any process i belive (can't remember the thickness at moment) requires a joint prep for a full penatration weld.

also 1/8" rods may be good for say if your doing a frame repair. but a 1/8" rod may not work well on sheetmetal patch. reason being a 1/8" rod take lets say 95-140 amps to run (depending on rod type i.e. 6013,7018, etc) at those amps a thicker steel has no probles taking that kind of heat its thicker so you need more power. but a fender thats like 1/16" thick may just get red how and blow a hole before your rod is ready to go. a smaller electrode takes less amps to run. and can in turn weld thinner steel.
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