im not looking at doing this in the near future or anything but i would like to eventually. basically what all do you need and i doubt there is a 'ranger turbo kit' you could probally retro fit on from like a thunderbird or something maybe? and then what about the mainfolds? have to do anyhing there? basically wat im asking is what all do you need and have to change.

like what would i need on top of something like this? if this even would work. idk im new to this stuff, just gathering info.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3T4-...1%7C240%3A1318

 

Everything will have to be custom.

 

you can get a super charger kit but still some of that is custom idk if beard still has his for sale or not

 

RP Caster Kit

Use this and then find a used Eaton M90 from an older Thunderbird. Don't do a turbo as this is easier and will provide plenty of power.

 

Turbos are very efficient but the plumbing and headers can get complicated. And expensive if done properly. Also the TQ curve is not smooth. The bigger the turbo the quicker the step up in TQ. So controling it becomes important. And that gets costly.

A turbo setup doesn't have to be expensive if you set realistic goals and use off the shelf (used OEM) parts wherever possible. But.. it can get costly if you care about quality. Your choice.

I helped a guy push 13psi on his stock 2000 4cyl S-10. In the end we kept it down to 10-11psi because his clutch started to slip. His total cost was about $700 Now, he didn't have a tune and we made other compromises so-as to keep it as cheap as possible. But IMO had we spent money on a nice SS header, got it tuned, used a bigger fuel pump, and upgraded the clutch he could have had a safe 13-15psi ride. The power increase was awsome once we got above 7-8psi.

A tubo on a V6 is much more complicated. And IMO I'd never again make a simple log style exhaust manifold. I'd make one out of cheap mild steel as a test piece. Then when I was happy with it.. I'd make it out of SS.

Something else to consider is if the motor is long stroke or short stroke. 4.0L are short stroke and really respond to higher rpm type of mods.

Rich

 

Yes, V6 Turbo's are a PITA. I built a customers Twin Turbo Z car this fall and it took 3 weeks. If you are really serious about going turbo I would go with a forged 2.3. Inline motors are much easier to boost, because everying is in one side, and out the other. There is less lag because the plumbing isn't as bad. Expect to spend 10-15K if you want it optimized. I know that sounds like alot, but for example - you can't possibly expect to get all of the adjustment you want from your stock ecu, and an aftermarket (Aem) ecu is 1800$ alone, and the sensor upgrades run about 500$ and up depending on how much sampling is going to be done from the engine..

 

this is some of what i am doing on mine:












this isnt the half of it though!!!

 

i dont see Rich on here very much... but wen i do see a post of his i always read it. he's always got somethin helpful to say.

 

I've spend a little too much time thinking about adding TQ to stock street cars.


Nick, That's a very good and seemingly *least expensive* setup all things considered!

Something else to consider.. add as many "bleeds" as you can in that area when you put the body back together. The seals around the headlight, ect... Maybe make an air channel that takes air from between the hood, headlight, and grill. I'm picturing it covering 1/2 of the vehicles width. And funnel / direct it over the top of the turbo. Much like BMW does with thier air intakes.. except your plumbing fresh air to help sweep away heat. Heat rises when no other force acts upon it and this would be a good way to keep things from getting too heat soaked when at slow speeds and stopped.

Think of it this way. If you had a small and very smokey fire right there with the hood closed. Where would the smoke go at differing speeds. That little duct between the grill/light/hood can help both ways. At speed air will flow in and when stopped heat will flow out. Especially if it's the largest opening. (unless you have a open cowl hood)

In my experience (I've measured this with temp sensors and strings of yarn) once you get to speeds over 25-30mph the heat gets swept down past the firewall on each side of the engine. Adding a bleed at the rear of the hood (or a *open* cowl induction hood) will decrease the vehicle speed needed for the heat to sweep down and out. I've been amazed at how little heat will actually go up and out the rear of the hood when going slow / stopped.


Rich

 

See that big open patch on my hood? When I'm idling with a warmed up engine I can see heat pour out of it like looking at the pavement in a desert.

 

Functionally I love it. But astheticly it looks odd. This is the cool thing about designing cars. It's a blend between function and looks. And most of the time the two are at odds with each other.

Rich

 

Function before beauty.

 

I agree... but function doesn't sell new cars.

 

.

 

I think he left himself logged in on a public computer (school, home, friends house.....)

He was on about an hour ago, now in the past 20mins these have been posted.

 

Thats why I don't buy "new" cars.

 

LOL.. yeah but at one time your cars was new.. and someone *in part* made an emotional decision.



Just messin with ya.. Later.

Rich