Forced Induction & N20 Tech General discussion of forced induction and nitrous for the Ford Ranger.

N2O On 3.0L

  #1  
Old 02-18-2009
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N2O On 3.0L

I have been reading alot on here about N2O and such and am thinking about a setup for my truck.

Here's my current setup:

2006 3.0L automatic transmission. I have a KN FPIK (ie crappy) intake system and no other mods besides cosmetic ones. I will be purchasing NICKSTERSVT's Stage 3 transmission kit and installing it in around 45 days.

My questions to start this thread out are:

1. What type of system would be best suited for an on demand system? IE I only want to push N2O when I want too, not all the time.

2. What all would be need besides lines, bottle and jets?
3. Is there a kit/system that meets my demands of HP increase without alot of headaches? Would I need to change anything on the truck for a 75HP shot besides adding the N2O system?

I am currently looking at this NX kit that says bolt on nothing else needed... and want to see if they are telling the truth...
NX Kit

Nick
 

Last edited by Npierce; 02-18-2009 at 05:04 AM. Reason: added link to possible system
  #2  
Old 02-18-2009
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I would add a progressive controller so you can bring the power on gently and maybe a bottle heater.I,ve sprayed my 3.0 without the controller,but the instant hit is kinda violent.
I would also stay around 50-60 H.P. without a tune and get that tranny shifting firm before you spray it.
Oh! and plugs that are one temp range cooler are a good safety measure.
Here's the controller I use on my Cobra and soon the Ranger.
http://www.daytona-sensors.com/Nitrous_Controller.html
 

Last edited by N20-3.0; 02-18-2009 at 10:20 AM. Reason: added link
  #3  
Old 02-18-2009
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Yeah I have been reading your threads and was hoping you would respond to help me... I guess I could have PM'd you also... Any more info you have would be helpful...
 

Last edited by Npierce; 02-18-2009 at 11:03 AM.
  #4  
Old 02-18-2009
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I have never ran N2O but from my SRT4 days i read up a lot. I would go with a wet system and also make sure that I have RPM safety switch and a fuel pressure switch too. That way your not shooting N2O with out the proper fuel and if for some reason your RPMs would raise above a certan point it shuts off the N20. With N20 i stand firmly behind the "you can never be too safe" view.
 
  #5  
Old 02-18-2009
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Here's a little more info.wydopnthrtl explains it well.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=59227
 
  #6  
Old 02-18-2009
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Yeah my brother has a SRT4 and is into all the turbos and such... He said thing. I just plan on doing 50-60 wet shot with a progressive 2 stage controller. I will be upgrading my transmission to much firmer shifts with the help of NicksterSVT and a limited slip install by myself, that should take care of some issues in the HP department until i can get a XCAL or LiveWire SCT tuner....
 
  #7  
Old 02-18-2009
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Do you have an Air/Fuel gauge? I would install one before running the N2O. It will make tuning a lot easier and also let you see if you are causing damage to the motor.
 
  #8  
Old 02-19-2009
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No not yet. Trying to get a full list of items I need to order mid March for delivery beginnning of April. I am overseas and will be finally back home in April. So keep the ideas and info coming....
 
  #9  
Old 02-19-2009
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Originally Posted by RangerNDog View Post
Do you have an Air/Fuel gauge? I would install one before running the N2O. It will make tuning a lot easier and also let you see if you are causing damage to the motor.
If your gonna buy one don't go cheap.You want a wideband gauge.Like this one.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
 
  #10  
Old 02-19-2009
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Originally Posted by N20-3.0 View Post
If your gonna buy one don't go cheap.You want a wideband gauge.Like this one.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Thats exactly the one I was going to recommend.

Also rember that just because the jets you use say 50-60hp shot it can be more or less. A friend of mine ran a 75 shot to his mustang and when he dynoed it he gained a lil over 100hp and almost 140tq. I would start out smaller than the 50-60 and work up from there.
 
  #11  
Old 02-19-2009
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Yeah AIR/FUEL guages/meters are expensive....lol guess i will have to save some money again to make it all happen....
 
  #12  
Old 02-19-2009
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For that much power increase there are several things I'd do.

1) Go one range colder plugs with thier gaps in the 0.035-0.040" area.
2) Up the tranny line pressures via a nitrous tune. Otherwise to run increased pressures all the time will only add stress to it for the 99% of the time your not spraying. In my nitrous tune I add Xpsi globally... and add about XXpsi on the shifts. (stock pressures won't hold for even a 50shot)
3) With that much on a 3.0L.. I'd just stick with the stock timing curves. But run 93 or 94 octane when spraying.
4) Lower the shift points in the tune.
5) Remove fuel cutout.

And you might want to consider replacing the head bolts with some ARP ones. A 75hp shot on a 150hp motor is a hefty power increase. Would hate to see you lift a head because the stock ones stretched.

(sorry about the "X" in this post. But.. I don't just give away my hard learned tuning stuff for free. That is except for a fellow enthusiast who tunes themself.)

Rich
 
  #13  
Old 02-20-2009
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Thanks for the info. Keep it coming. I have been talking to Tony (N2O-3.0) via PM now so he is giving some good info.

What program are you using for tuning? He uses Sniper and I have been looking at a SCT Live wire due to the fact I can use it to clear codes look at the PCM and also hook a air/fuel meter to it and monitor it on the same device.

Would I want to run these smaller gapped colder plugs all the time or only when running the nitrous system. Also could I possibly run a semi nitrous/semi road tune in which if I can activate the nitrous with no issue of burning the motor out and then roll right back into regular driving. Or would I have to stop and change tunes before and after running the Nitrous...

I know speed kills and street racing is illegal, so do not turn this thread into some legal affair, just would like my questions answered to try and make my truck what I want it...
 
  #14  
Old 02-20-2009
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I use SCT pro racer to write the tunes. I then flash my x-cal 2 and then use it to re-flash the trucks PCM.

I run a colder plug 24/7. Check out the link on my web page and you'll see what I use.
I like to go top quality on plugs. And with the densos one range colder and a smaller gap I have very little issues. The only time I have a stumble is if it's cold and I don't let it warm up at all. If it's say 25f and I just get out on the hwy. It'll have a feeling of stumbling or surging for about 20 seconds. But once the plugs get some heat into them it's all fine.
Any old school guys know what I'm talking about... No problems. Just a little annoying if you don't let it warm a little before heading out.

You only use nitrous at WOT and when activating it. And as such you want the timing and tranny functions to be different than non-nitrous WOT.
So even if you used a wet kit to supply the fuel.. the two tunes ought to be different.

On my nitrous tune nearly everything is identical to my 93 octane daily driver tune..except for WOT settings.

What I do is flash the truck with my nitrous tune a few days before going to the track. Then hook up the bottle and spend a little time here and there spraying to get back into the cadence of launching w/o spinning. That way when I get to the track I've got a bit of practice and only adjust things for the tracks condition.

So for WOT operation. You need a different tune. But everything below WOT could be the same.
 
  #15  
Old 02-20-2009
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OK good info yet again... Do you have a lmited slip rear? So there is no running around town and being able to smack a button for some speed when needed???
 
  #16  
Old 02-20-2009
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Yes I have a FX4 with comes with 4.10s and a LS.

If you had a manual tranny you could "smack a buton" with some octane and a low timing tune. But with a auto tranny it's not a good idea unless your spraying below a 35 shot.

If you had a built motor and a built tranny.. then yes you could do that. But on a stock ranger you really need to have everything setup so that you can spray w/o worries.

Rich
 
  #17  
Old 02-20-2009
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Originally Posted by Npierce View Post
OK good info yet again... Do you have a lmited slip rear? So there is no running around town and being able to smack a button for some speed when needed???
If you run some kind of controller all you do is flip the activation switch and everything is automatic.Providing you did'nt forget to turn your bottle on.Yes I've done that.
I run my nitrous tune all the time.Like wydopnthrtl said the main difference is on top.
 
  #18  
Old 02-20-2009
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OK so no running the streets like crazy only when i want to run it all the time. BOO...lol anyways this SNIPER software is crazy... I don't know what I need besides The software and a "bullet". But the descriptions are so vague as to what you need for one car...
 
  #19  
Old 02-20-2009
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Originally Posted by Npierce View Post
OK so no running the streets like crazy only when i want to run it all the time. BOO...lol anyways this SNIPER software is crazy... I don't know what I need besides The software and a "bullet". But the descriptions are so vague as to what you need for one car...

You need no bullet.All you need is the Special Forces Software.It works some what similar to wydopnthrtl's setup.You write your tune's flash them to the interface witch holds several tunes.Then flash to your truck.Oh! you can tune 2 ford vehicles with it also.
I'm not saying you need Sniper.That's just what works for me,but you need some kind of tuner for what you want to do.
I know wydopnthrtl use's SCT.That is a great product also.
 
  #20  
Old 02-21-2009
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Yeah i am just trying to figure out which tuner is best for me. I like the SCT livewire but I would have to do all custom tunes no matter what. They don't have preprogrammed tunes for it.... I need to find out if any of the local dyno places have used either and which is a more widely used system... makes it easier to get help locally if a shop has messed with it before...
 
  #21  
Old 02-21-2009
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So I went back to read my PM and saw that you suggest waiting on building my transmission. I wrote that the transmission needs help due to having the 2-3 slip amny experiance. I had it checked by Aamco and i had some codes for improper gear ratio and 2-3 slip. Is this a big deal. I thought it was and that is why i was going to fix tranny first then come back and put on a nitrous kit and tuner. What do you guys think...
 
  #22  
Old 02-21-2009
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Originally Posted by Npierce View Post
Yeah i am just trying to figure out which tuner is best for me. I like the SCT livewire but I would have to do all custom tunes no matter what. They don't have preprogrammed tunes for it.... I need to find out if any of the local dyno places have used either and which is a more widely used system... makes it easier to get help locally if a shop has messed with it before...
You can get tunes for the livewire from both Rogue and Bamachips
 
  #23  
Old 02-21-2009
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Yeah but they charge for them do they not??? Or do they do them for free. I kinda want to minimize the longterm cost of having someone else do a tune for me everytime i change something(or want to change something) Ideas??? Ideas???
 
  #24  
Old 02-21-2009
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Yeah its not free lol, you can get the original tune from them though and then take it to a local shop. Or you can do that from the beginning.
 
  #25  
Old 02-21-2009
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Yeah. I just want to be able to tune when I need to... I don't intend on making many changes to the truck after the N2O install so it will be more or fine tuning after the initial install...
 

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