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Forced Induction & N20 Tech General discussion of forced induction and nitrous for the Ford Ranger.

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  #51  
Old 03-24-2009
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Originally Posted by wydopnthrtl View Post
If I was going to buy a ready made kit from one of the major names. I'd buy a 50hp wet kit from NX.

I'd *not* install the braided supply line. That's a huge waste of nitrous. Buy a kevlar suply line rated for 100hp from Denny at racetested. That way you won't have to purge and you'll use less nitrous trying to fill a huge pipe every time you open the bottle. Yes it'll cost you $100+ for the line. But trust me you'll spend that much in no time buying nitrous at $4 a lb. And you won't need to spend money on a purge kit.

Ok so stuck with a 50hp fixed hit kit.. I'd make the fuel solenoid to nozzle line as short as is possible. Make the nitrous side as twice as long as the fuel. Even if you gotta put a curly Q in it.. make it twice as long.

I'd run a thicker fully synthetic oil because when you activate the "fixed hit" 50hp shot size down in the 3000rpm (or below) area you rod bearings and piston skirts will be pushed harder than if ramping the nitrous.

Also, it's a good idea and will even save you money to buy a 15lb bottle vs a 10lb bottle. (I have two 15lbs ones)

Rich
Rich, here you go contradicting yourself again about HP (horsepower)......


You just posted this:

"Horsepower however is ABSOLUTELY NO DIFFERENT than say.. mule power. Or.. dog power... or maybe mouse power. It means nothing of substance to us here and now in 2009.
It simply is a math calc to make uneducated people understand the power an engine can provide vs something they could grasp. Like horses for the uneducated people people several hundred years ago."




Just like your statements about K&N air filters, what are we supposed to believe from you?
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  #52  
Old 03-24-2009
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Takeda,

I would appreciate it if you would keep your comments out of this thread and any further issues would be kept in a private messages.

Back to the topic at hand...
Rich and N20,
I am looking forward to your data from the track. Still working on research of systems...
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  #53  
Old 03-25-2009
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1.5 weeks and I'm going to the Fri night street race! Gotta swap the water pump out this weekend. I'll hook up the nitrous box / bottle and put in the tune too. As well as a splash of 100 octane and a new fuel filter.

So by sat afternoon I should be spraying a 600DP shot on top of the 1,984DP that the truck already makes.



( (Torque x Engine speed) / 5,252 = Horsepower = (248+75)8 = 2,584DP (aka "dogpower")

Last edited by wydopnthrtl; 03-25-2009 at 10:57 AM.
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  #54  
Old 03-25-2009
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lol Yeah well make sure you PM me your results if you don't want to share with the world... Would love to see them. I just got extended on deployment (Navy) and so will be making som more extra money to support my modification habit....
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  #55  
Old 04-04-2009
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Wound up not going. W/O a job I need to cut back on costs where ever possible.
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  #56  
Old 04-04-2009
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Boo on the horrible economy...Guess I am lucky i am in the military. Don't have to really worry about getting fired a guess.
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  #57  
Old 08-28-2009
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HI!... I had a NX wet kit from my F-150 drag truck. I just eliminated the fuel solenoid and converted it to a dry kit. Currently running a 40H.P shot. Just get your tuner to set you up with a nitrous tune. This will allow the fuel injectors to squirt more fuel with the nitrous. Ford F.I intake manifolds DO NOT like wet kits. The intake manifold was designed to only flow air not fuel (fluid). You will get fuel puddling in the lower plenum which can cause a nitrous backfire/explosion. Look it up on youtube. Not a pretty sight. Stick with a dry kit. Don't run platinum plugs! Copper core plugs are best like the AUTOLITE racing plugs. One step colder. You also need to retard your timing when running nitrous. Your tuner can do this. I'm stepping up to a 75H.P dry shot and a few other mods soon. Hoping for a low 13 second E.T. Current times are in my sig.
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