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Forced Induction & N20 Tech General discussion of forced induction and nitrous for the Ford Ranger.

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  #26  
Old 02-21-2009
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Oh gotcha so your looking at getting the software and tuning it like rich does, I was confused for a second lol
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  #27  
Old 02-21-2009
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Yeah i want to be able to tune myself. So when i make a change to something or want to experiment, i don't have to wait for a tune to come...
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  #28  
Old 02-23-2009
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So i did some research and i am looking at a few companies to provide my esssential system and lines.

I am looking at N2O Direct and DynoTune. noth companies sell the Name brand systems such as NOS and NX but also have there own brand of kits. Would it be ok to go with say A N2O Direct system for just the essentials ie bottles, lines, and solenoids or do you guys recommend getting the name brand (NX NOS etc ) systems.

I will be getting a single nozzle system with wideband O2 gauge and also a progressive timer....

Any help is appreciated....
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  #29  
Old 02-24-2009
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The controllers pulse the solenoid. Meaning.. it opens and close the valves longer and longer and longer until the "power" (meaning nitrous or fuel) is at 100%

Because of this.. pick a solenoid that will take it.

I use wizards of nos solenoids on both vehicles. They are very expensive but they will pulse all day long.

Rich
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  #30  
Old 02-25-2009
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Roger... I am still looking at tuning software to go with the nitrous. I am thinking about the SCT more and more due to the fact local shops have palyed with it more than anything else. No One's even heard of Sniper.... So i would be the only one in the area with it... But i think tuning software is tuning software....

With the SCT tuning software can I control transmission shift points and pressure???

Would it be best to get a whole nitrous kit pr purchase seperately??? I could always use the solenoids and then upgrade later too couldn't I? So many decisions....
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  #31  
Old 02-26-2009
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Well I am looking at a system from NOS. Its the sniper system part No 07005NOS on their website. Comes with everything except progressive controller and air fuel sensor. I am currently looking at the daytona sensors site at the nitrous controller and a air fuel sensor. Air/fuel is kinda expensive and not a dial guage type, so i may just go with their nitrous controller and get a air/fuel from summit or jeg's.

Any thoughts on what i am thinking so far.
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  #32  
Old 02-27-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Npierce View Post
Roger... I am still looking at tuning software to go with the nitrous. I am thinking about the SCT more and more due to the fact local shops have palyed with it more than anything else...
SCT is like microsoft was in the early days. Very frustrating at times because its not refined like it ought to be. But.. you can get it done and it's what most people are using.


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Originally Posted by Npierce View Post
With the SCT tuning software can I control transmission shift points and pressure???....
Absolutely. Not only can you.. but with more than a 35 shot you'll have to.
I once sprayed a 50shot on the stock 1-2 settings. It sliiiiiiipppppeeeddd.

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Originally Posted by Npierce View Post
Would it be best to get a whole nitrous kit pr purchase seperately??? I could always use the solenoids and then upgrade later too couldn't I?
Knowing what I know now. And considering your going to be able to tune yourself. Make it a dry kit. There are several advantages in do this.
1) No fuel drop out
2) Less cost
3) No possibility of a fuel leak
4) Easier install

There really is no downside **if** you can tune yourself. Without that ability though.. go with a wet kit and keep the shot size to a 50hp. Fuel drop out and cyl-to-cyl distribution is an increasing problem the more fuel you try to suspend in the airstream. Don't forget that these intakes flow into a open plenum and then **UP** to the runners. Thats exactly what causes fuel to "drop out" of the airstream and not get equally distributed to each cyl.

If you spray a dry shot (nitrous only) the nitrous turns to a gas form as soon as it leaves the nozzle. By the time it gets to the plenum & runners it's very well distributed and has no problem flowing upward equally to each runner.

Supplying the fuel via the injectors also adds another layer of protection. You don't flood the intake charge with fuel that has the potential of burning. (backfire) Not only that.. but they are actually timed properly for just when the cylinder needs the fuel!
On a modern FI car I'm a HUGE HUGE fan of dry shots. It just makes sense... as long as you can tune.. or have it tuned specfically for your shot size.

So far with a fresh fuel filter.. I can push 75hp worth of nitrous and still keep my A/F ratio in the mid 12s. So at least on my 2006 FX4 the stock fuel system is quite capable of keeping up.

As far as a "kit". You can save money and make it more efficient if you contact Denny at racetested dot com With his supply lines you can eliminate the need for a purge. That way you'll use less nitrous.
He doesn't sell the solenoids I use though. But he can sell you everything else.

Rich

Last edited by wydopnthrtl; 02-27-2009 at 09:01 AM.
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  #33  
Old 02-27-2009
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Can you recommend a beginner's system that will work for my truck. I looked at NOS, but that only have a plate type system... Give me a couple companies that I can research tomorrow on duty....
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  #34  
Old 02-28-2009
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If I was going to buy a ready made kit from one of the major names. I'd buy a 50hp wet kit from NX.

I'd *not* install the braided supply line. That's a huge waste of nitrous. Buy a kevlar suply line rated for 100hp from Denny at racetested. That way you won't have to purge and you'll use less nitrous trying to fill a huge pipe every time you open the bottle. Yes it'll cost you $100+ for the line. But trust me you'll spend that much in no time buying nitrous at $4 a lb. And you won't need to spend money on a purge kit.

Ok so stuck with a 50hp fixed hit kit.. I'd make the fuel solenoid to nozzle line as short as is possible. Make the nitrous side as twice as long as the fuel. Even if you gotta put a curly Q in it.. make it twice as long.

I'd run a thicker fully synthetic oil because when you activate the "fixed hit" 50hp shot size down in the 3000rpm (or below) area you rod bearings and piston skirts will be pushed harder than if ramping the nitrous.

Also, it's a good idea and will even save you money to buy a 15lb bottle vs a 10lb bottle. (I have two 15lbs ones)

Rich

Last edited by wydopnthrtl; 02-28-2009 at 07:23 AM.
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  #35  
Old 02-28-2009
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So there isnt a ready to go DRY shot kit that you would recommend???
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  #36  
Old 03-02-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Npierce View Post
So there isnt a ready to go DRY shot kit that you would recommend???
I'm sure there is. Buuuutt.. that's only adressing 1/3rd of the way to make more power.

Nitrous is two parts nitrogen and one part oxygen.
When N20 reaches something like 750F it splits. The oxygen does its part in combustion. The nitrogen helps prevent knock.

There is no short cut and simple "kit" to just add 50hp. Take the time to understand how nitrous works and your ranger will live a long happy life. Try to take a short cut and it won't.



You still need to add in the heat (strong enough spark)
And you most importantly need to add the fuel. With just a dry kit you'll blow up your motor. You have to balance those three things to make a fire that will keep the engine alive.

Spark
Fuel
Oxygen.

IMO supplying enough fuel is the absolute most important element.
If spark or nitrous (oxygen) falls off... no harm no foul. But if you can't supply enough fuel... you'll melt a piston...or more than likely chuck a rod out the side of the block.

Nitrous is the cheapest way to make more power on a stock engine. But if a fella is just "cheap" in his thinking about slapping a cheap kit on? He will just become another one of the many who blew up thier motor.

If your a newb at nitrous... think fuel. How can you insure that your supplying enough fuel.

Rich
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  #37  
Old 03-03-2009
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I am definitely on board with ensureing I know everything about adding nitrous before I do so, hence the thread. What i was asking is there are alot of Nitrous wet kits out there that come with all the lines and solenoids for plumbing the system out, I was just wondering since you recommended a dry shot vice the wet shot, if there was a particular brand and system they manufacture.

I just don't want to be buying everything seperate if I can get everything already together with one package. If you recommend i go the seperate item route, then let me know.

I know that I need the following to make things work with no blow up....

Bottle with nut and valve
bottle bracket
nitrous line from bottle to solenoid
nitrous line from solenoid to intake nozzle
spray nozzle
solenoid for nitrous
WOT switch
System on/off switch
nitrous controller with software
wiring harness for solenoid and WOT switch

Would the WOT switch be replaced by the Nitrous controller since it essentially does the same thing?

And would Denny know who i am talking about if i say Rich sent me to you for help in getting things together... Just want to know if I drop your name he will know what I am looking for or to point me in right direction in quality materials and equipment...

Nick
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  #38  
Old 03-03-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Npierce View Post

Bottle with nut and valve and press.gauge
bottle bracket
nitrous line from bottle to solenoid
nitrous line from solenoid to intake nozzle
spray nozzle
solenoid for nitrous
System on/off switch
nitrous controller with software


Nick

Nick,You don't need a WOT switch.If you run a controller it works off of the TPS.You also don't need any wiring harness.So I adjusted your list a little.
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  #39  
Old 03-03-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Npierce View Post
I just don't want to be buying everything seperate if I can get everything already together with one package. If you recommend i go the seperate item route, then let me know.
Hey Nick, What happens is that the standard kits will include braided hoses and lots of parts you don't need. Plus the profit on each of them.
Those braided hoses are not what you want. ESPECIALLY if your talking about a 50shot or below. They waste lots of nitrous and you have problems with the shear volume of fluid in it's ID.
Remember that nitrous turns to a gas form when it decreases in pressure. When you open the bottle thats exact what happens with a large supply hose. That requires a purge. Then after the nitrous passes through the solenoid.. it happens again before reaching the nozzle. Or.. at least for the first second of flow through the solenoid.

On my ranger I have a small ID kevlar supply line from the bottle to the solenoid. And the piping going from the solenoid to the nozzle is very small and it's made of simple nylon that is rated at 1800psi. That means I have no need to purge, I get liquid nitrous instantly from the moment the bottle is opened, it stays cooler when the lines are pressurized (braided steel gets hot and makes the N20 boil), and it's overall price is actually cheaper!

Why buy parts that are inferior... and pay more for them just because it's in a "kit" form? What Denny will sell you is a "kit" But it's a customized parts list vs a prepackaged bundle for ease of sales & marketing sake.

If I were in your shoes.. I'd tell Denny exactly what you want to do. (spray size, ramping, ect)
He'll sell you just what you *need*. And for the things he doesn't sell he'll tell you what to buy from other sources. He's very knowledgable in nitrous and most importantly he's all about quality at a reasonable cost. He and I are very similar in that respect.

And yes Just tell Denny I recommended you contact him from off the ranger forums. He and I have worked very closely on my ranger, my lightning, and some motorcycle projects.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Npierce View Post
Would the WOT switch be replaced by the Nitrous controller since it essentially does the same thing?
Yep. This is exactly what I do. I have no WOT switch. Instead I run a FJO progressive controller. It has a single wire that you tie into one of the TPS wires. It is easily reflashed with a laptop with different settings and such.
It supports rmp based ramping too if that suits you.

Last edited by wydopnthrtl; 03-03-2009 at 10:34 AM.
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  #40  
Old 03-03-2009
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MMk i will email Denny and see what he can set me up with. I just don't want to waste money on something i don't need or won't last as long....
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  #41  
Old 03-03-2009
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Thansk to the both of you for setting things straight for me. Only 29 days and I will be abck in the states, eager to get things rolling on the truck...
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  #42  
Old 03-11-2009
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Well I emailed Denny and he is kinda busy with R and D on a new system utilizing Nitours with methanol as an added fuel.

I am thinking about just doing the wet route with a ramped shot up to 50hp. I don't want t much right now just something to get me started. Might just by an air fuel guage and sensor and get it installed. then save more money for tuner software and then the nitrous system.....
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  #43  
Old 03-12-2009
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When you get a kit and are ready to install it.. send me a PM or e-mail. I'll help you make the best out of what ever you choose to do.

Rich
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  #44  
Old 03-12-2009
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Roger will let you know here soon in next month or so.... got to make the wife a deck out back first and replace the hood on her car since some truck back into it with a hitch ball.
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  #45  
Old 03-23-2009
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you sure you wanna do this? I dont wanna sound like an ***, its your truck, but even with the nitrous your going to be in the 17 second 1/4 mile range...

My brothers old truck was an 06, 3.0 auto reg cab.. with intake and exhaust he ran 18.1's.... then he traded up on an 06 tiburon, 2.0 auto... with I/H/E and a 60 shot he ran 16.8's.....
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  #46  
Old 03-23-2009
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My 05 Edge Reg. cab 3.0 5 spd. Auto/w 4.10 gears went 16.40 bone stock.With a K&N filter,cooler plugs,a good tune and a 60 shot it ran low 15's consistently.
With the 100 octane nitrous tune I wrote it went [email protected] mph.
I've just added pulleys,1.7 roller rockers,headers and a progressive controller for the nitrous.
Those time are not impressive I know,but you would never expect that from a Ranger.That's the fun part.
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  #47  
Old 03-23-2009
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Yes. If i wanted a car I would have bought one... I like the sport truck scene and a nice big V-8 was out of question... I hate Chevy so no S-10 and Dakota's aren't my style. Plus my truck is paid off and I don't want a new payment right now.
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  #48  
Old 03-23-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roddy1 View Post
...even with the nitrous your going to be in the 17 second 1/4 mile range...

My brothers old truck was an 06, 3.0 auto reg cab.. with intake and exhaust he ran 18.1's....

ETs are very relative to many things besides power. Putting that power down in the first 60ft is the key. Even in a stock ranger.. you should be getting no worse than 2.3 60fts.

IMO w/a 50shot he could expect low to mid 15s on the stock street tires.
If the DA was high and it's a sticky track.. 14.9s are possible. (generally a rare set of circumstances though)

Rich
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  #49  
Old 03-24-2009
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Rich,I agree 100%.I think mid 15's would be right where he'd be at.
The 14.9 I speak of came on a very cold night with a well prepped track.As soon as I smacked the throttle I could grab the kit.
I'm hoping that with my recent bolt-ons I can run in the 14's consistently.
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  #50  
Old 03-24-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N20-3.0 View Post
I'm hoping that with my recent bolt-ons I can run in the 14's consistently.
Last year I kept spinning the stock 265 tires. (two different tracks) So I'm going to try running the 32's. I might step it up to a 75 shot too.
I'm really not sure what to expect except for a slower trap speed. As is on the street I can spin the stock tires. And the 32s don't spin a lick. So that will make for a better launch.. but the rest of the run those 32's will be hurting me.
I donno.. I'm thinking it'll run 14.7s @ 91 or so. I'm headed to the track in two weeks.. should find out soon.

Rich
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