Thanks, 2011 Supercab. I put an offer in on it!
I got the manual, and I'm waiting for the delivery. Hopefully this book has the location of the splices, like the other For manuals I've used. Then I can locate and inspect the splices.

 

Inside ECU will hopefully look like this: Ford EEC-IV

You can see the 3 blue capacitors, they can be black color as well

Those are really the only user changeable parts besides the diodes which hardly ever fail
But with covers off you may see damage from bad power supplies, those are the 3 pin black units around the edge of the circuit board

My 1994 looked like this, the bent over cap, I bent it over, was obviously disconnected, and a 2nd one was as well just couldn't see it until I was removing it, and pin just fell off, lol.





You can get the caps on line
need 2 of the 16volt 47uF
1 of the 63v 10uF

You will probably have to order 5 or 10 of each but they are cheap, google: electronic parts for your area
I actually pulled them out of old equipment I had not taken to recycling yet
You can use higher rated voltage caps, like 50v 47uF or 100v 10uF, just don't use lower voltage caps, these are not uncommon in power supplies or other electronics

Just FYI, the white specs you see is a sealer that is sprayed on the circuit board, its on both sides of the board

 

Thanks for the info, Ron. I'll look at the ECU and see what it tells me

 

I removed the covers and don't see any evident damage. If I gently pull on the capacitors, one blue and the black one seem to have one leg that is pulling out of the capacitor. I have found someone that will order and replace the capacitors for me. It appears that all the blue and black ones were replaced already.
The mustard colored droplet shaped one next to the bent over blue one, he says , is a capacitor also. Any idea what the value is of that one?

 

No, I don't know its value but its not an electrolytic capacitor so rarely would fail, I wouldn't bother replacing it

 

ok, thanks Ron. I will advise my friend to that fact.

 

Good afternoon, Ron. I got the repaired ECU back today. All capacitors were replaced. He cut them out, so there is no way to test them. I also got the manual for the circuit troubleshooting. I want to check the supply circuit from pin 26. It shows that 26 goes to TPS, EVP and MAP sensors. The map shows two splices. One location is listed as fuel charge harness near T/O to fuel inj. #1. What is T/O? I can't find any explanation for it!
Thanks
Chip

 

I believe it means "tap off" as in spliced/tapped in to.

 

Ok, thanks. That makes some sense. I wasn't sure if it meant anything else. Ford and their acronyms don't always make sense!

 

Hi Ron,
I reinstalled the ECU after replacing all three of the capacitors. I separated the three sensors tied to the #26 wire before turning the key on. I still don't see any voltage at the red or red/blk wire on the sensors, or at the ECU on #26. I still get no throttle response. I didn't check for active codes. I will do that in the am. Then look for another ecu. Any idea where I can find one? I'm told of a yard down around Aire SC that has a lot of old CL&P trucks. Do you know about anything like that?

 

Well ECUs are programmed for engine size and transmission type(manual or auto)

The model of the truck doesn't matter to the ECU

The sub-catagories, are MAP or MAF sensor, EGR/no EGR, 1 or 2 O2 sensors

The pin out wiring never changed on the ECU

The 429(7.0l) was used with ECUs in these models
Ford medium-duty F-Series (1977-1991)
Ford F600/F700/F800
Ford B-Series (1977-1991)
Ford C-Series (1979-1990)

Obviously the earlier models didn't have ECUs, and cars did not use this engine with ECUs

Just looking at prices for USED ECUs for the 429..................................jeeze, its silly
I would look for a carb, distributor and intake manifold, lol

 

That doesn't sound very encouraging. I'm not looking forward to replacing everything. That opens up a whole new can of worms! Currently trying to see if I can get this ECU checked to see what the problem is. Waiting to hear back from them.
I just replaced the distributor on this one. Now I'll have to do it again.

 

Well look at the prices "they" are asking for used ECUs for the 429, not sure why?
$1,200 for an OLD ECU?????

You can get an intake and rebuilt carb for $300-$400
HEI(one wire) distributor new, $160
Fuel pressure regulator, $100

With gaskets maybe $700

 

You are right, Ron! That is silly, down right hiway robbery! I'm going to contact the company that repaired this one, and maybe they can tell me what is wrong with this one.If not, maybe a different manifold ect. is the way to go.
Thanks for all your assistance on this painful project.

 

Its a manual transmission, right?

1991 Automatic would need the computer, then you are stuck with finding or fixing the ECU

 

No, ours is an automatic. It has torque converter lockup while in PTO mode. I've looked on line and seen several sites with ECU for sale at below $200. Any insite on these?
Thanks

 

No, I have never bought an ECU, just lucky I guess, I just fixed mine, closest I got

Wish there was a way to test them, seller wouldn't even know if they were good or not, unless they pulled it from a wrecked truck, it had to be running to get into an accident right, lol
And it would need to be from a truck with automatic

Or do you know what transmission you have, AOD didn't need a computer, AODE did
AOD was used up to 1993 in F-series
AODE didn't start until 1992 in F-series
So good chance you have an AOD in a 1991, so it wouldn't need computer control, although the torque converter lockup is puzzling it its not an AODE

 

The torque conv. lockup was probably part of the CL+P package, because the switch is in their control. How do I check to see what trans I have? Would it be on a data plate on the side of the trans? I was looking on line this am, and saw some ecms with the price you said. Outrageous!

 

The AOD would have the TV(throttle valve) cable running up to engine, and just the NSS switch for wiring, located above shifter arm on drivers side

AODE would have extra wires toward rear of drivers side, not to be confused with VSS wiring on tail shaft

Picture of AOD here: https://www.cartechbooks.com/media/wysiwyg/3_41.jpg
A is NSS switch
C is TV cable hookup

AODE can look like this: https://img.hmn.com/fit-in/900x506/f.../08/131400.jpg
So can 4R70W

 

NSS is neutral safety switch. Correct? It looks like I will have to pay for an ECU. I will try to get this one checked first. Thanks for your assistance

 

Yes, that what NSS is, also does the Reverse Light activation

 

Hello Ron, Happy New Year! I was able to get the ECU rebuilt by Solo Auto Electronics in Miami Fl. for $290. I put it in a couple of weeks ago when the temp was up slightly above freezing. No CHK ENG light and no power problem! Ecstatic I am! We'll see how long it lasts! Thanks for all your help. I hope you had a great holiday
Chip