So about 3 weeks ago I bought a 1994 ranger 4.0 with a 5 speed and only 109,000 miles. The guy I bought it from said that he was driving it one day and it just shut off on him and then when he would restart it sometimes it would run like **** and sometimes it would run fine. So the night I bought it and got it home I started it and it ran and idled just fine. The next day I started it and it seemed to be running very rich, there was white smoke coming out of the exhaust and flames coming from the exhaust under the cab. The next day i start it again and it runs like poop again but this time it won't stay idling by itself and when I finally let it die I could not get it to restart... and still haven't been able to. I have replaced the crankshaft position sensor, tps, engine coolant temperature sensor, and maf sensor. After replacing all of those I took the throttle body off to find fuel in the intake manifold and I also saw a streak of fuel running down the engine from a leaky injector. So I replaced all 6 injectors and made sure there were no leaks and IT STILL WON'T RUN it just cranks and cranks. But when I play with the accelerator like pushing it to the floor and letting off it sounds like it wants to start but never does. I have spark at all 6 cylinders and fuel to all 6. I also tried starting on starting fluid and it wouldn't fire. I don't know what I could he missing I am just so frustrated at this point. Someone please help me. Thank you

 

Welcome to the forum

Fuel
Spark
Compression
That's all there is to a cylinder firing

So you don't have spark if it won't start with starting fluid, no room for maybes there, its possible its still flooding, read on
Or you don't have compression, which would be odd if it was running before

1994 4.0l spark is not part of engine computer, its a separate system
Check that crank sensor wire is still plugged in
Check that coil pack is plugged in, you can test its RED wire for 12v key on
Firing order on coil pack
3 4
2 6
1 5
front

5 6 4 side gets me most times, check each wire to its cylinder, I reverse these all the time at the coil or at the plug

EDIS-6 is the spark module, these never fail, its on the front side of rad support, drivers side, need to look up under the bumper to see it, but unless you were in a front end collision its fine

Crank sensor============EDIS-6=============Coil Pack

That's all there is to spark system
Crank sensor generates its own AC voltage when crank is turning, there is a tone wheel with 35 teeth and one missing tooth that the crank sensor "reads", as a tooth passes by the sensor it generates voltage, the gap, missing tooth, is a drop in voltage, and that tells EDIS-6 module when #1 is at TDC so its the timing mark


Maybe its still flooding out, so starting fluid makes it worse and you do have spark
FPR(fuel pressure regulator)
There are two fuel lines in the engine bay, one goes to the fuel rail drivers side, this is the IN from fuel filter/fuel pump
The other is the return line, OUT to gas tank, this is connected on passenger side front of engine, to the FPR
FPR has a vacuum line attached as well, pull it off and check it for gasoline, replace FPR it is leaking fuel into vacuum hose, this will flood out the engine


All fuel injection computers have a Clear Flooded engine routine in their software
With key on press gas pedal to the floor and hold it down all the way
With throttle sensor at max voltage, 4.5v, and RPMs at 0, this tells computer to start Clear Flooded engine routine, so it turns OFF fuel injectors
Crank engine
this allows it to dry out(max air flow), spark is still on, so if it starts to fire then yes there was fuel still in the intake, which there should never be on a fuel injected engine

If engine RPMs hit 400, when it fires, Computer will restart injectors, exit clear flooded engine routine
If you release gas pedal computer will restart injectors

This Clear Flooded engine routine is good for other things as well
I use it every morning to start my high mile 4.0l, crank engine over for a few seconds to get oil pumped thru it then release gas pedal and allow it to start

You can crank the engine, gas pedal to the floor, then pull a spark plug to see if its WET, if so that injector is leaking

 

I checked with a light that plugs onto the spark plug(not sure what its called) and all 6 of the spark plugs have power going to them. Is it possible that maybe since the leaky injector was flooding the engine that it fouled all of the plugs?

 

This is one of the plugs i pulled out

 

Yes, they are pretty bad, take wire brush to them, need some bare metal on tip and electrode for spark to jump the gap