Hi I have a 98 Ranger 3.0, 4x4 extra cab, had it for 3 years, it won't start, it sounds like it will but then doesn't, plenty of gas coming out of fuel rail, changed gas filter, was old, no codes coming from my little code reader, I put my old timing light on a spark plug wire and it lights up so I assume that means spark, spark plugs are good, so wondering about timing chain, how to diagnose? It sounds normal when I crank it but just won't catch, am just a driveway mechanic, thanks for any advice.

 

Welcome to the forum

Do the 50/50 test
Spray fuel into the engine, gasoline, ether, carb cleaner, ect...............
Try to start
If it starts and then dies you have a fuel flow/delivery issue
If it doesn't start its a spark issue(maybe compression)
50/50 instant results

Fuel AT the engine doesn't mean fuel IN the engine
Spark at a spark plug doesn't mean spark at the right time or strength

3.0l timing chain was never an issue in any year, would be an extreme long shot

When trying to start the engine look at the CEL(check engine light)
CEL should come on with key on, means computer has booted up
CEL should go OFF as soon as engine starts to turn(cranking), that means computer is getting a good timing pulse from crank sensor so will start spark first and then fuel injectors

 

Hi thanks, I had tried starting fluid earlier, should have mentioned that , just trred it again, also saw a small coating of gas on the plug I took out, engine light goes on then off when cranking engine.

 

So no start with 50/50 test?
You don't say


Check fuse 19, 25amp, in the cab fuse box, it powers the coil pack for spark

There is a Radio Noise Capacitor, usually bolted to one of the coil pack bolts, 1 wire, follow it and unplug it
If this shorts out it can blow the fuse or otherwise inhibit spark, long shot

Unplug the 4 wire connector on coil pack and plug it back in to clean the connection

No Cam sensor codes now or in the past?

 

Hi thanks for the help, I was looking to check the fuses under the dash and I see what appears to be a red fusible link coming out of the code reader and then there is another yellow one, they seem to have been attached and are now broken? The yellow one has a connector on the end but does not connect to anything, I have to go out for a while, I will try to post a picture tomorrow.

 

If you mean the OBD2 port under the dash then its not important, as far as startup and running
It's just a data port to "talk" with Computer
People often use one of its wires as a 12volt full time power connection, it uses the Cigarette power fuse, just FYI

 

hi, thanks again, I have tried the things you mentioned, fuses, etc., still no luck, I have a friend with the same truck and he let me swap out his cam and crank sensors, nothing, I am kind of stumped at this point

 

You are making this way more complicated than it needs to be

When you have a crank but no start
Do 50/50 test
If it starts and dies then you have a fuel issue
If it doesn't start then its a spark issue

If CEL comes on with key on then computer is powering up
If CEL goes off when cranking then computer is getting a good timing signal

If CEL goes off when cranking, but No Spark, then test if Coil has 12volts, the red wire, with key on
If Coil has 12v key on then test any one of the other 3 wires on coil pack with volt meter to battery positive, key still on, should see 12v, that means that wire is a good ground you can crank the engine over and watch meter, voltage should vary, drop and come back up, means computer is pulsing the ground
Replace coil pack if wires test OK

Repeat 50/50 test

 

took me a while but did some tests one set of plugins on the coil pack very low, .3 ohms, others were1.0 so Imgot new pack online, put it in a couple days ag9 but no change

 

So no start with 50/50 test?

And CEL goes OFF when cranking engine over?

Check that you have 12v with key on at the coil pack, red wire

If so, then hook volt meter to that wire and any one of the other 3 wires, should see 12v again
Crank engine over, volts should fluctuate up and down as computer grounds and unground that coils wire

 

took me a while to figure out how to get a reading, it shows 11.8, same as the battery, which seems strange, thought battery should show higher than 12, anyway, the number on the wires did drop and bounce around from 8 to 9, sorry this takes so long, this is a spare vehicle, I do appreciate the help

 

Battery is bad

New battery is 12.8 to 13volts
3 year old battery is 12.5volts
5/6 year old battery is 12.3volts and time to shop for battery sales

12.2v or less is a failed battery, or your alternator is no longer working to charge the battery when driving

 

I had been cranking the engine a lot so I figured it was just discharged somewhat, it crank over fine so I don’t think it is just the battery