With some 30,000 miles offroad and 115,000 miles I think its time to upgrade the LS which is probably due to be rebuilt.

It would seem a torsen T2R and a Detroit Locker are about the same price. I've never driven anything with an auto locker so I am worried about how it will affect handling and if it is going to engage when turning tight as possible on the trail. Because of this I am leaning tward the torsen but like the idea of the locker for all the crawling I do.

While I am at it I think I should put the torsen in the front end too. Why not?

I am wondering what I should expect to pay for installation? I am pretty handy but guessing it is probably beyond my ability.

Couple pics for you

Turning around on a shelf road blocked by snow in the sierra.




Climbing in the Inyo mtns

 

After a ton of reading I have decided a detroit locker is not a good idea. I am going to get detroit trutrac out back. when I get more money the torsen up front.

 

What made you decide that the Detroit locker wasn't such a good idea? I'm looking at getting one myself and just want to know what you came up with in your research. Thanks,

 

Because my truck is a daily driver and I have a manual. If I had an auto I think I would try it. Basically what I found was take your foot off the gas in a turn and it will not lock while turning. Get on the gas hard and it will lock while turning. What swayed me was the description a guy with a ranger and manual trans wrote. He says that in a parking lot when having to turn very sharp to park the only way you can get it to unlock is to put the clutch in, shifter in neutral, and coast. Any torque going to the rear will lock it up. In an auto just let your foot off the gas and it unlocks. I don't really drive in snow but everything I read said in snow or rain the locker can get crazy.

Because its a daily driver and I often find myself turning around on shelf roads with thousand foot drop offs I need to be able to turn as tight as possible.

Wish I could afford an E locker. Just have to wait till I can afford a new tacoma or jeep in a few years.

The detroit trutrack or torsen you will never know is there. My truck has always done great and gone anyplace I want to go with the clutch type LS. With a gear type LS front and back its going to be like a mtn goat I'm sure. I would get the torsen in the back but its really hard to find it to buy plus its a couple hundred more than the detroit trutrac. The torsen T2R sends a little more torque to the tire with traction than the trutrac.

 

That's right, I forgot you're a manual guy. I have an auto and I was planning on the Detroit locker since I'm only 1wd with my open diff and I would prefer to be true 2wd. I thought about an E locker too, but I really don't hardcore offroad enough to warrant a $900+ locker when the Detroit is around $650 from what I see. Best of luck to you with the improvements and I can understand wanting to be able to turn as short as possible being that far up in the mountains. Doing something like that with a diff that locks and unlocks as it pleases would be the definition of sketchy.

 

A Detroit is not a good idea on a Ranger in wet weather... PERIOD, even a good posi can cause problems.

If you want a locker and want one of the strongest on the market look at an OX Locker, pricey yes but a strong one.
With an OX Locker you can switch the locker on or off, not sliding truck be cause of locked wheels.

Sort of like an Air Locker but mechanical.

 

I was looking at the ox locker and that looks like the best but that is wayyyyyy too much money at this time. With posi front and rear I think it will be more capable than my stock suspension.

I think the posi and locker problems are worse on a ranger with an empty bed. With my camper shell,carpet kit, hi-lift and emergency tools I have about 300 extra pounds back there at all times and that keeps the *** planted. When I got the truck the back end was all over the place.

I'm just looking for some cost effective upgrades. My next vehicle will be the ultimate build because I will pick something with lots of aftermarket like a tacoma, fj, or jeep. Building a torsion bar ranger when u are not a mechanic/fabricator is a total PIA. If I had the skills for a SAS I would get the OX and make my ranger the ultimate toy.

 

Just wanted to throw in my $0.02, I've had great luck with my Detroit/Eaton Truetrac. While not a 100% locker, I feel like it's a great balance of locking/performance with street manners just about like stock. I understand it's a little more aggressive than the Ford L/S. I can feel a slight chatter if I get on it from a stop (mine's a 5-spd) while making a sharp turn, but otherwise you wouldn't know it's back there.

Plus, no clutches to rebuild and is definitely doable in rain/snow. Just don't nail it while cornering in slippery conditions.


Ha, just re-read that, my bad :)

 

I think I'm going to take the truetrack route on mine too. I personally can't justify to myself like $800 for a locker when I don't off road enough or to the point to use it.

 

I really like the Torsen in my Ranger rear differntial. I don't have a problem in slippery conditions with it but I do have a heavy shell on bed. It tends to chirp the inside tire on sharp corners with moderate acceleration but the rear does not kick out. I find the Torsen acts almost like a locker when accelerating. After 12 years of using it off-road, I have learned to use its capabilities at its best. Many people like to use the parking brake to get a LSD to hook up. I find if one wheel starts to loose traction, easing into the throttle a little usually gets it to hook up until both tires are getting traction again.

I have been wanting to install a selectable locker in the front differential but have not had any luck in find one for it. I may have to just go with a Torsen there also. I understand they are available for the front of a Ranger.

 

Well, funds have been low so I have yet to get the trutrack. unfortunately, the axle seals are starting to leak so I have to do something soon. Called a shop for a price to install the trutrack, axle seals, and bearings. They quoted me 1100 at long as the gears are still in good shape. They quoted 700 to just rebuild the clutch packs instead of a trutrack.

 

You should take this opportunity to have the Truetrac installed. It may cost you a little more but I think you will be happier with it in the long run.

Last year I spent a lot or money on my differentials. I had 4.56 gears installed because I am running 33" tires now and I had a Torsen installed in the front too. Of course, they wanted to install all new bearings and seals. That included the rear wheel bearings and seals.

I had a hard time justifying all the expense but I am very happy that I did it. I have taken three major long term off-road trips with it since the change and have been through some pretty rough stuff. It is near unstoppable now and feels much more stable. The combination of Torsens, front and rear, work very well.

The only very slight quirk I have noticed is when it is below 40 degrees F in 2WD, I can feel a slight want to go straight when starting a turn when going above 40-50 mph. This goes away after driving a few miles as the gear lube gets warmer. In 4WD when under load (climbing or accelerating) the steering wheel likes to stay centered (straight) but it takes very little effort to overcome that. Other than that it, is very well mannered.