2011 Ranger Shifter - Hurst?
#1
2011 Ranger Shifter - Hurst?
Does anyone know if the Hurst short throw shifter will fit a 2011 Sport V6 4wd 5sp? Or do you have any reasons why it wouldn't?
Hurst says that the shifter is meant for Rangers up until 2003, but I have seen another member with one on his 2005. I wouldn't be surprised if the Hurst fits the 2011s, but I would rather not have to spend the ~$225 to find out.
Hurst says that the shifter is meant for Rangers up until 2003, but I have seen another member with one on his 2005. I wouldn't be surprised if the Hurst fits the 2011s, but I would rather not have to spend the ~$225 to find out.
#6
You have to adjust the front and rear stop bolts so that they make contact when the shifter is firmly in 2nd gear (rear stop bolt) and 3rd gear (front stop bolt). Use Loctite to keep the bolts in place. Your rattle will be reduced greatly. I have no rattle right now. All i hear is the meshing of the gears.
#7
#8
#9
#11
I've heard the same thing... hope it's true. All of the pictures I've seen show a gold-colored shifter base, but mine is silver. I wonder if that's an indication of a new & improved version.
One thing I didn't like about the install is how it doesn't give torque specs. You'd think that would have a major effect on the gasket/seal. I was really careful to apply even torque to each bolt and in a criss-cross pattern, but I feel I may have over-torqued. When I try to re-adjust the stop bolts I'll check the seal.
As far as adjusting the stop bolts to fix rattling... when I did it during the install, they were so far into the shifter that I barely had any room to put the jam nut on each one. Next I'll try getting them even more into the center... let's hope that locktite holds well.
One thing I didn't like about the install is how it doesn't give torque specs. You'd think that would have a major effect on the gasket/seal. I was really careful to apply even torque to each bolt and in a criss-cross pattern, but I feel I may have over-torqued. When I try to re-adjust the stop bolts I'll check the seal.
As far as adjusting the stop bolts to fix rattling... when I did it during the install, they were so far into the shifter that I barely had any room to put the jam nut on each one. Next I'll try getting them even more into the center... let's hope that locktite holds well.
Last edited by Twilight; 08-08-2011 at 01:54 PM.
#12
#13
#14
Bump, anyone know if this was solved? I'd like to look into getting either an affordable fx4 (yea right) or the hurst one.
Edit: found my own answer
http://www.hurst-shifters.com/?wpsc-...ranger-5-speed
Edit: found my own answer
http://www.hurst-shifters.com/?wpsc-...ranger-5-speed
Last edited by morris; 03-15-2013 at 09:45 PM.
#15
#18
Thanks for posting your installation of Hurst shifter in your 2011. Back in Jan 2011 when I bought my Ranger, I trolled the internet to see if anyone successfully installed a Hurst in their 2011, but I found nothing. Like you, I didn't want a couple hundred dollar Hurst shifter sitting on my unused parts shelf. Installed it this weekend. Wonder why Hurst doesn't update their catalog, or at least their online reference.
#19
#21
I noticed a lot of my rattle was from the hurst plate on the boot rattling against the stick solved it with one of those clear ring resizes from walmart for about a dollar can't even really see it. Mines about a 6 months old and it leaked wasn't huge but it would pressurize and cause a small leak out the tails haft seal cut a grove in the bottom plate to vent and all is well.
#22
Well bad news. After around 30K miles mine started leaking (just a small amount). I took it apart and the rubber gasket was in poor shape, so I resealed it with copper RTV silicone. I'm skeptical about it needing extra venting, so we'll see if this helps. Good thing it's incredibly easy to take apart when necessary. Also, the OEM rubber and plastic bezel seals really well around the shifter, so none of the transmission fluid has a chance of getting into the cabin and onto the floor.
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