Hi there, I am a new member, registered today and new to any sort of forum, so here goes......

I have a 2013 3.2 Supercab Ranger that I use to lead tag along tours all over the country ( 90,000 k's in just over 2 years ). I am thinking about upgrading to a 3inch exhaust as there are bit of advice that say this is good for both power and l/100k's.

What I am interested in is if anyone else has converted the exhaust in their Ranger, which system you bought, how the install went and what were the results for consumption and power. I have also seen info that it reduces the exhaust temp which is something else I am interested in?

Thank you

 

Welcome to the North American Ranger forum

Our Rangers are smaller than yours and had different engines, 1983 to 2011 were our model years, pretty much all gasoline engines

You have what WE call an International Ranger, a T6 Ranger, they were never sold in US or Canada

So we can't help you much

We did get a new Ranger this year, 2019, but it has 2.3l duratec gasoline engine

 

4wdtours,
What is in the market for exhaust systems; the info could give you an idea of how things should go !
A manufacturer doesn't build things unless they work, they always need to sell the next kit to stay in business.
Once you think you have the Systems down to two or three, see what the reviews say; this method could help you decide.

I do not have enough experience with V-6 or 4 cylinder applications, so I can't help on the RIGHT size !

You don't want to go too big, you need back pressure to run efficiently !

Ltr

 

I'm an OEM engineer and can offer advice from that perspective. Not so much about specific brands / kits. I also have experience tuning fords.

A larger exhaust pipe will:
- reduce backpressure (helps efficiency / increases TQ)
- Results in cooler EGT (exhaust gas temp)
- Reduce clearances to surrounding parts (often results in rattles as pipe bump other metal parts)
- Add weight / reduce weight (mass depends on the pipes material gauge thickness)
- Allows you to upgrade / downgrade material / coatings.
- Reduce the amount of currency you posses.

I've been a hot rodder for going on 50yrs now. And one of the first things I upgrade is exhaust. What I've learned more than anything is that you want to maximize TQ where you use it the most.
Sounds to me like you'll spend your time at lower to mid rpms. In that case here are the things I'd look to do:
- #1 above all else... Keep the engine cool. Keeping the engine cool will keep the engines ECU commanding timing where you want it. Hot IAT & ECT temp readings will cause the ECU to **remove timing** which reduces power. (so exhaust efficiency wouldn't matter at all if they are in the upper range of of normal)
- Keeping air intake temps lower = more dense air = more power
- Differential gear ratio. The engine already makes excessive TQ. Keeping the engine up in rpms might give you the TQ your looking for.

From a purely exhaust piping & low to mid rpm standpoint... the stock muffler and length (volume) of the header are the two most restrictive parts. If your funds are unlimited.. you might consider a muffler like the magnaflow w/straight through design. And long tube headers w/increased diameter mid pipe.

 

Needing back-pressure is a myth for the most part.

https://m.roadkillcustoms.com/determ...t-tubing-size/

https://hotrod.staging.enthusiastnet...-inch-exhaust/

 

Yes, very very common Myth

Came from people putting large pipes on the heads and losing power, "WTF, I lost power???, engine must need back pressure"

Car makers have been using scavenging exhaust manifolds since the 1960's, even earlier on some models
Scavenging exhaust manifolds lower pressure at the exhaust ports in specific RPM band, low, mid or high

That's how/why "headers" work, most are tuned for low RPM range so lower pressure at the exhaust ports in the lower RPM range, this leaves more power on the crank since it doesn't have to push as hard to get exhaust out of the cylinder
And its FREE power, you just need to calculate the correct smaller pipe size, at the head, to get a good Velocity that dumps into the larger pipe size at the collector, this velocity causes a pressure drop as it enters the larger pipe, and that lowers the pressure at the exhaust ports of the non-firing cylinders, so it sucks out exhaust

Some racing headers(high band) get -7psi at the exhaust ports at higher RPMs

So when people removed the scavenging manifolds they lost power, no surprise, their assumption for why they lost power was incorrect , and the Myth persists

Even straight pipes can be tuned, the size and length of the pipe can cause lower pressure at the exhaust port at specific RPMs, because the one pipe per cylinder is dumping into a "larger pipe" the outside air, lol, so can create a suction from its Velocity in the smaller pipe


2-stroke engines are only engines that work better with back pressure, and its an MPG and power curve thing, not a potato up the exhaust thing, lol.
With 2-strokes the exhaust port and intake port must be open at the same time, the back pressure at the exhaust port is there to prevent, as much as possible, any unburned air:fuel mix from exiting thru the exhaust port as it enters from the intake port, this increases MPG but also keeps more air:fuel mix in the cylinder for best power