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It doesn't control the heat in the cab, its not a Temp control
So you can just connect the two heater hoses with 2 metal splice/joiners and hose clamps
The heat control valve is there to shut off flow thru heater core when MAX AC is selected on the dash, to reduce heat in the cab, not really a big deal because heater core has no air passing thru it when COLD is selected on Temp Control
It doesn't control the heat in the cab, its not a Temp control
So you can just connect the two heater hoses with 2 metal splice/joiners and hose clamps
The heat control valve is there to shut off flow thru heater core when MAX AC is selected on the dash, to reduce heat in the cab, not really a big deal because heater core has no air passing thru it when COLD is selected on Temp Control
It doesn't control the heat in the cab, its not a Temp control
So you can just connect the two heater hoses with 2 metal splice/joiners and hose clamps
The heat control valve is there to shut off flow thru heater core when MAX AC is selected on the dash, to reduce heat in the cab, not really a big deal because heater core has no air passing thru it when COLD is selected on Temp Control
After my OEM one burst, and the OEM replacement burst 6 months after, this is the same thing I did. Copper/Brass double ended nipple on one hose, direct from core to upper rad pipe for the other.
...OEM one burst...OEM replacement burst 6 months after
Yep
Best to swap out any JunkPlastic OEM\AfterMarket CoolingSystem components
(HeaterValve + PlasticTees + TStatHousing + PlasticTankRadiators + DrainCocks +...)
for Metal\Stainless\Aluminum\Brass versions where possible.
JunkPlastic in the CoolingSystem is just a TimeBomb wanting to crack+leak & overheat the Engine.
Yep
Best to swap out any JunkPlastic OEM\AfterMarket CoolingSystem components
(HeaterValve + PlasticTees + TStatHousing + PlasticTankRadiators + DrainCocks +...)
for Metal\Stainless\Aluminum\Brass versions where possible.
JunkPlastic in the CoolingSystem is just a TimeBomb wanting to crack+leak & overheat the Engine.
The 2.3NS in the 2001.5 rangers has this funky 3 way "heater bypass" coolant hose. From the factory, it is bonded together by a 3 way plastic tee, that sits above the starter.
When that broke (common failure point) I made it a mission to find a part that did not have plastic in it. Luckily, the dorman replacement part had an aluminum 3 way tee instead of the unreliable plastic unit.
