Over the past few months, I've noticed that I have to press the clutch COMPLETELY to the floor to get any attempt at starting when I turn the key. In fact, I sometimes have to apply a little pressure to the pedal arm once the pedal bottoms by riding my foot up to start the engine. Once I'm going, I still have to engage the pedal nearly to the floor to shift, and occasionally have to play around to change gears. I think I'm in new clutch territory but that doesn't explain the start problem. Also, before attempting to start, I can push the pedal down all the way and change / disengage gear... And still have to push extra or up the pedal arm to crank. Otherwise, the pedal action seems fine- it isn't floppy and returns home. Also the fluid reservoir has maintained level. Any ideas?

 

Welcome to the forum

In the cab the clutch pedal arm is connected to Master by a Push rod, on that push rod is the Clutch switch

Drawing here: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/97/1b...b60a5f217f.jpg

It has 3 separate switches inside, 2 wires for each switch, one switch is for the START circuit
When pedal is depressed the arm presses switch against Master and compresses it, this closes the contacts on all 3 switches inside
When you turn the key to START ignition switch sends out 12volts thru this switch to the starter relay in the engine bay, and starter activates
If switch is not closed then no 12v can pass thru it and no starter activation

Switch is removable as seen in drawing
Could be its worn down at one end so not compressing enough
Maybe cut a felt pad, like those used on bottom of furniture legs, slide it over the push and see if this spacer closes the switch more

Switch has nothing to do with hydraulic clutch system itself, you may have some air in the system so its needs to be bled
Worn out clutch disc will slip when pedal is all the way up
Not disengaging with pedal all the way down is a sign of air in the system

 

I had some 1/4" ID panel gromets that I used. The first one got eaten up by the irregular interface between the top of the switch and the master cylinder bracket. A second one stacked on did the trick thanks!