Hey guys,

2005 3.0 Edge, rwd, auto. Couple years ago, I changed my rotors, callipers, and bearings. I was (and am) new to this stuff, and clearly didn't do it right, as the bearings are shot (lots of play). My question is: Do I need to replace the rotors along with the bearings, or can I simply put new, re-greased bearings into the rotors and races, paying more attention to the torque specs than I did last time? Any thoughts, suggestions, experiences, or criticisms welcome. Thanks, and happy Christmas!

 

You can reuse the rotor/hub unit 99% of the time

As long as the new races seat tightly and square, hubs are OK
Spin the hub as you tighten it, grease doesn't compress easily

After 50 or so miles jack up each wheel and re-tighten, don't have to remove wheel
That gives enough time for grease to heat up and get into all the places it needs to be, and out of the way to tighten it

 

Thanks Ron! That tip about compressing grease is really helpful, perhaps that's what went wrong last time.

Happy Christmas!

 

When I did the job, I more or less rotated the rotor/wheel while tightening the bearing until I barely could turn the wheel anymore. This is supposed to fully seat the races and get most of the grease "out of the way" so that it does not skew your final install.
Then I loosen until the wheel/rotor is "visibly loose" with play when you try to rock it side to side.
After that, I will then hand tight, checking play until the play is "gone". After that, I put about 1/4-1/2 turn on the nut, then call it good, so long as it does not seem to have too much preload.

If I recall, OEM spec calls for 0 preload, but it's really hard to determine if you actually have 0 or not with the grease and other "forces at play" as mentioned by Ron above. Hence why I give it just a little extra. My personal choice, do not feel compelled to do the same if you are not comfortable with it.

 

Yup, Thats how i've done it. Spin the drum or rotor as i tighten then back off 1/2 turn.

 

1/2 turn is way too much, 1/8 turn maybe, it really is a judgment call

 

Thanks for all these tips, this is great! What is the purpose of backing the nut off, at the end? Are there any signs that would enable a good judgement on what is too much here? If I understand Turismolover's description properly, is simply tightening the nut about 1/4 past 'no play' sufficient, or does backing off at the end add something important?

Thanks!

 

Wheel needs to turn so if its too tight bearings will get too hot from resistance/friction

So you spin the hub while you tighten the nut until you can't spin it, too much resistance
Then you back it off so you can spin it with "some resistance" but NO wobble in the bearings

 

Ah, I see. That makes total sense. I imagine this is a safer method than just going by torque specs alone, since there could be variation depending on wear, etc.?

 

Torque specs for spindle wheel bearing nut, tell me no one ever printed something like that?????
Just joking, there usually is something about it in service manuals, but most just do it the way their Dad did and his Dad and his Dad did it, lol

It usually goes
"while turning the hub tighten spindle nut to 70ft/lb"
"Back off nut 1 full turn"
"Retighten while spinning the hub to 50ft/lb"
"back off 1/2 turn"
"retighten while spinning hub using fingers only until tight"
"back off 1/8 turn"
"Secure nut"

The 1/8 turn is kind of arbitrary across all spindles designs, because its based on "threads per inch" for spindle and nut
1/16 turn might be best for course thread
1/4 turn for fine thread
But 1/8 turn is usually spot on for most vehiclesw and trailers

 

LOL, I'm afraid so. I'll go with the Dad-route. Thanks so much!