Hello All,

I've got a 1989 2.3 Ranger that was sitting or 6 or so years due to a cracked cylinder head. I replaced the head and reassembled everything under the hood. Upon first effort to start the truck, nothing would happen. Change a few parts and messed with the ignition switch and success, truck was turning over. No ignition however...so I replaced the totally trashed fuel pump, washed out the fuel tank, and replaced the fuel filter. After three turns of the key the truck started right up and let me drive her around the block a few times to test everything. All was going well, had truck in reverse backing into the garage and I stalled her right there. From that moment on it has turned over but not had ignition...back to trouble shooting what might be the issue. I hear the fuel pump turning on, I replaced the throttle position sensor, replaced the fuel injector control valve, replaced the starter, replaced the ignition switch and relay, replaced the water temp sensor... What is next. Would the fuel lines have anything to do with the issue? Or ignition coils... the ignition control module... should I do a 50/50 test... Should I spray starter fluid down the throttle body? Should I do a pressure test? Bleh, I was so close. Thanks for the help!

 

Yes, if you have a crank but No Start then you always do 50/50 test first, on any engine

That tells you if you should look at spark or fuel, the 50/50 part

Now the 2.3l also has a 3rd issue that can come up, especially if its been sitting, the timing belt, you probably changed it with new head, but just check

So if you get a no start on 50/50 test then FIRST look to see if Cam Gear is turning when you are cranking the engine, if its turning then most likely the ICM is the issue for no spark
1989 2.3l ICM does have an inhibitor for the intake side coil when cranking, so only the exhaust side spark plugs fire until RPMs are above 400

 

Roger that, timing belt is on and turning. Just gave it the 50/50 test and after a few tries with starter fluid and then cranking and giving gas it started up. A little rough for a bit there but then leveled out and did good. Turned the engine off and havn't given it another shot at start up yet. Any conclusions based on this? Could it be something with vacuum lines, or with spark plugs and cylinders or maybe the fuel injectors? The fuel injectors are original and tbh not the best looking. Could these have gotten clogged with all the junk in the fuel tank before I cleaned it out? Thanks again for the help RonD, you're awesome.

 

I doubt all 4 injectors would clog up at the same time, possible just very unlikely

Could have been clog fuel line, but hard to say, or stuck open fuel pressure regulator, which means 0 psi fuel pressure at the engine

When you are cranking engine over make sure the CEL(check engine light) goes OFF when starter is on, that means the computer is seeing the Crank sensor timing pulse so will start the injectors, if CEL stays on when cranking, injectors are OFF
In the 1989 to 1994 2.3l the Crank sensor is connected to the ICM, and it then sends the timing pulse to the computer, the wires on the ICM can get brittle with age, so can get intermittant

Also the Ground on the ICM module was a known issue, it uses bolts/screws that hold it to the intake as grounds, and they rust out

 

Just went back out to take a look. Tried starting the truck right away and it started up perfectly. I let it run for about 10 seconds and then shut it off. Tried starting it again about 10 minutes later and it did a rough cough and then died, now just cranking again without startup. I took a look at the CEL when turning key and starting truck, the light goes off as it should. I also took a look at the ICM to check for rusted screws, they look fine but there were only 3...the fourth hole looks like nothing is intended to go there for some reason if I'm right? Also is white gunk suppose to be on the surface between the ICM and the intake manifold? I'm puzzled.

 

Yes, 3 screws is all that was used at factory
Yes, the "white gunk" is heat sink grease as the ICM run quite hot, so its needed

Try cycling the key on and off 3 times if it doesn't start right up, that builds up fuel pressure in case it was lost
Fuel pump only runs for 2 seconds with key on, thats about 10psi, and it does it EACH TIME key is turned from off to on

Engine runs at 35-40psi, and should hold pressure for months at above 15psi with key off
So cycling key 3 times can build up lost pressure to see if that might be the problem
Once engine RPMs are above 400 fuel pump should come on full time until key off, or RPMs drop below 400

 

Tried cycling the key on and off 3 times, may have a new serious issue on my hands?...Turned the key all the way and gave it some gas, hood was closed and an awfully loud pop or "explosion" came from under the hood and I saw orange for about a split second. Face to palm...opened up the hood and don't see any signs of obvious damage. Possibly a pop from head gasket or exhaust to cylinder head or perhaps fuel injectors if they aren't inserted fully? Hoping I don't have to disassemble the entire engine again just to take a look at potential damage but if that's the only way to tell then ok, I could use a good cry.

 

I would do the key on and off 5 or 6 times and then smell for a fuel leak in engine bay
Also smell inside the intake, open throttle and smell, if you smell gasoline in the intake then an injector is leaking, or fuel pressure regulators vacuum hose has gasoline in it

On a cold engine its very hard to ignite gasoline on the outside of the engine

Was the intake to air filter tube on?
All vacuum lines still attached
These tend to "blow off" if there is a back fire inside the intake manifold

 

RonD,
So I turned the key on and off 6 times and then smelt for a potential fuel leak inside the engine bay. Nothing. Then did the same thing, 6 key turns, and smelt inside the intake with the throttle open. Still nothing. However, I removed the intake manifold completely and it does smell like gasoline inside what it sits on...
On another note, I discovered where that backfire under the hood most likely came from...the AIR FILTER housing. It was screwed down but looks to be already missing the second screw as well as at the back where it slides in to position there is only one plastic holder piece of the two that should be there. I discovered upon closer look that the air filter housing was basically blown open and out of place...would this make sense as to what caused the loud explosion I heard and the orange flash? All the vacuum lines were still connected and the air filter tube was on when I had tried to start it. I'm going to attach a photo of the vacuum diagram that I found under the hood because I'm wondering if the vacuum lines have something to do with my overall issue. When I was reassembling the truck after replacing the cylinder head I noticed that it seemed as if a vacuum hose was missing or something so I tried to do my best to complete the setup. Maybe I added a hose I wasn't supposed to...? Should there be four attached hoses and one caped off like I did in one of the photos below or based on the diagram, should the set up be different...and maybe the red vacuum hose in in the wrong spot?
Also, there were two yellow wires that have been poorly spliced together that connect to the ICM but look to have come undone potentially just before I had issues getting the truck to start up again...I will attach a photo of that as well.
Thanks for the help!

 

Looks like quite the mess on the wiring

The black/orange stripe wires are usually positive wires in Fords, popular for alternator wiring
And the larger gauge would indicate that, i.e. high AMP wires

Yellow/brown stripe wire? not sure on that one, alternator did use yellow/white stripe

MAP sensor vacuum line is important for starting and running, it needs to see intake manifold vacuum directly

Vreser = vacuum reservoir, its a "can" or plastic container that holds vacuum for use in the cab for Vent control, defrost, panel, floor, defrost is default, so no vacuum = defrost
The cab vent vacuum hose runs from the reservoir thru the firewall on passenger side next to the fan/heater box, comes out under glove box close to the edge of kick panel

On the under side of throttle body there should be a vacuum port, this is "ported vacuum".i.e. reverse vacuum, ported vacuum goes UP when throttle is opened, where as regular intake vacuum does DOWN when throttle is opened
The Ported vacuum is used for the EVAP system, the "carbon can"

 

RonD
Just wanted to ask you a quick question or two.
Since my last backfire through the engine bay and lack of start, I replaced the air filter box so that it can bolt down appropriately in all areas now. I also replaced the fuel pressure regulator and flushed each fuel injector with pressurized carb cleaner. I did a little work on those nasty wires and made sure to check all my grounds etc. So my question is should I just go for it now, try and crank the Truck over? I’m afraid it’ll pop again like before and blow up the air filter box like before or even something worse. I want to be as cautious as possible!
I also switched the red vacuum hose to the spot to the right of it based off what the diagram shows...seem right?
Thanks you!

 

Looks fine

You can just take the hose off the air box if you are worried about a back fire

 

RonD,
I discovered that my truck might have a spark issue after all. Tried the 50/50 test and no start after giving it some quick start. Next, I had read about the coil packs and how passenger side engages first or something like that?...So I thought MAYBE there's an issue with passenger side coil. I switched the drivers side and passenger side coil packs, truck started right up! So my question now...Is this safe to drive with? Maybe one coil pack is bad...the drivers side now, now that I switched them lol.

 

Yes, its safe to drive on 4 spark plugs, the 2.3l Lima engine ran that way from 1974 to 1988
The dual spark plugs gives an engine more power

 

I have been able to consistently start the truck each time after it has sat for 24 hours or so. It turns right over and idles pretty well and stays running. After turning it off and then attempting to start it again shortly after, it starts and idled rough, then dies. THEN I try to start it again and it fights me and ultimately won’t start, just cranks but no ignition. I bought one new coil pack and left one old coil pack on. Could this be what is causing the issue? Could it be something else like gas or air intake or just bad spark due to something?? It has done this same exact thing each day I’ve gone out to start and test it...

 

So Cold Start with Choke applied the engine seems to run and drive OK, idles high, then idle slowly drops as engine warms up
But warm restart is when the rough running shows up?

1989-1994 2.3l spark modules were known failure point, at this point I would change it, I think some auto parts stores can test them, but problem with testing them is that they can test OK when cold, using them for even a few seconds gets them warm enough to start failing

 

I just replaced the ICM because yes, that does seem to be exactly what is happening ha. However, I’m not getting the truck to turn over at all now. Just cranks. New ICM and one new coil pack at this point. Could the second coil pack be causing the lack of spark or whatever is happening/NOT happening?

 

Exhaust side coil pack is the only one used for startup in some years, intake side doesn't spark when starter motor is active, it starts sparking when engine(crank sensor) shows above 400rpm

 

Hmm :/
I had the new coil pack hooked up to the exhaust side and nothing earlier...tried some starter fluid in the intake but wouldn’t turn over with that either. 🤦🏽‍♂️

 

And the crank sensor got plugged back in, it starts the ball rolling for spark and then fuel

 

I checked that the crank sensor was plugged in, it is. I unplugged it and plugged it back in and tried starting the truck. Gave a split second of sign of life, but then literally nothing. Just cranking. If that’s bad, is the only way to change it to remove the timing belt? RIP if so 🤦🏽‍♂️ That was a piece of work just getting right the first time ha. Maybe my timing belt is slipping? I’ll have my wife turn the key while I shine a light in the viewing hole. 🤔
Thanks for your continued help!

 

Well after cranking if a spark plug tip is WET with gasoline then crank sensor is working
The crank sensor times spark but ALSO fuel injectors, so no crank sensor also means DRY spark plug tips

If you take out a spark plug you can put in a compression tester then crank engine again, above 150psi is expected, if so then timing belt is OK
If under 120psi then timing belt has slipped

 

I guess I’ll need to crank the engine and then check each spark plug tip to find out if crank sensor is working or not. Man, that would be a pain to have to change, because of price and having to take timing belt and pulleys all off again 🥴🤦🏽‍♂️ Is there any way I can rig something up if it does end up being bad Crank Sensor, or will I just have to drop the money and do the work?

I think I attached a video of the timing belt turning as I crank the engine. I’m assuming it’s working then? It turns, but should I still give a compression test?

Maybe I’ll try grabbing a Crank Sensor from the junk yard if I can find. Bleh.

 

You just need to check 1 spark plug, the easiest to get out, to see if its tip is WET

 

Roger that, I checked one spark plug before starting the engine. Dry. After turning the key and trying to start, pulled the same spark plug. WET! So any chance I can mark crank sensor off the list? 😅
An idea I had while watching a video today about no start, problem ended up being a battery/ground/wiring issue around the battery area.
I have attached a few photos of a couple wires just lingering since putting the truck back together...I should have checked here first...the big black wire could be culprit...not sure where it goes or if it goes to negative or positive battery terminal...
Also, the passenger side coil pack has that little external piece on one of the screws and unlike the other side, it is missing the end to it and wherever it connects, if it is supposed to...my only reference has been other trucks I looked at while at the junk yard. Lol