Good stuff, ICM is seeing a timing pulse from crank sensor and is passing that along to the computer so its turning on the injectors, so baring any "way off" crank sensor install I would say crank sensor is off the list of possible problems

The Ground for the ICM was a common issue, I think only the 2 bolt holes on the left(looking at it from front of vehicle) were internal grounds for the ICM, and Ford only installed 1 bolt on that side, which is fine as long as it was a good ground
If possible take out the upper bolt on the left and add a ground wire to it and reinstall it

 

Where should I attach the new ground wire? So if I remove the top left bolt, add the ground wire, screw bolt back in, where does the other end go?

 

Also not sure if this is something...
One of my coil packs is missing the wire displayed in the photo I attached. It just has the part that is screwed down with coil pack bolts. Issue?

 

That's a radio noise suppressor so won't effect operation of spark but you might get radio interference mostly on AM stations without it

Ground the other end of wire to "a good ground", could be another engine bolt
Best way to test if something is a "a good ground" is to use an OHM meter from battery negative to the Bolt in question, 0 OHMs is a good ground
You can test the bolt on the ICM in that manner as well, but I would add a ground wire in any case

 

I attached a ground wire to the lower left screw on the ICM because there isn’t one on the top left of ICM. I attached other end to the Intake manifold bolt that screws into the head. Cranked and nothin :/
Tomorrow I’m going to set up a different ground wire from the same ICM screw directly to the negative battery terminal.

 

That should be fine, a good ground
Too bad it didn't solve the problem

 

So, moving on to other possible causes for no start...
EEC Relay by chance?
or
ECM...

 

Shouldn't be ECM(computer) because the ICM is autonomous when starting the engine, ECM just adds spark advance after startup, if you have a timing light you could test #1 spark on exhaust side to see if it was sparking at 12deg BTDC while cranking, if there is spark at all

EEC relay powers up injectors and ICM along with EEC(computer) so you could put a test light on an injector or ICM power wire(red wire) and make sure light stays on when cranking
There are often 2 power paths for EEC relay in ignition switch, one in RUN(on) and one in START, so you could have 12v at injectors and ICM with key on but then lose the 12v with key turned to START

 

After everything has been tinkered with, I sprayed some starter fluid in the intake. Truck showed life...so maybe there was some initial wiring/spark issues, but now seems to be back to a fuel issue. Each spray of starter fluid and the truck tries to turn over. Could this be due to a fuel fuse? I need to check the fuel rail for fuel, but I can hear the fuel pump turn on with key and I am confident injectors are good. Fuel filter is new, fuel pump is new...just noticed a leak down the side of the fuel tank. Nothing insane, but definitely relatively slow and steady. New fuel relay in truck...trying to think what else is new...trying to think what to troubleshoot next.

 

Cycle the key on and off a few times to get fuel pump to run longer than the 2 seconds, this can build up lost fuel pressure

There is only the one fuse in engine bay fuse box for the fuel pump, and if you hear the fuel pump run with key on, 2 seconds, then that fuse is OK

Yes, if engine starts by adding fuel manually then spark is OK, but not just fire, it should start up and continue to run as long as you are adding fuel to the intake

 

Okay RonD, fuses are good, fuel pump is activating. Starter fluid seems to help encourage the engine start up, but still not starting. So my next thoughts are:
- could my injectors be bad? I removed them last month and hooked them up to the battery and sprayed carbon cleaner through them. They were engaging like they should...so I know they are clean...but could they just be malfunctioning and need to be replaced?
- Should I do a fuel pressure test with the shrader valve? Is 45-60 what psi should show on gauge for good pressure?
-IAC valve?
- Maybe trying a compression test to see if belt is skipping/slipping?
- Could there be a bad ground to coil pack? And if so, how to find the ground wire to coil pack and fix? I had read on another post that the bad ground to coil was his problem.

Thanks for the advice!

 

Still a spark(or compression) issue since starting fluid doesn't get it to start, so nothing to do with fuel at this point, unless tank is full of water, lol

Yes, compression test on at least 2 cylinders would tell you if compression was the problem, expected is 150-160psi
But engine should start down to 120psi on ether(starting fluid), just not have much power

Yes, the ICM needs a good ground to get good spark
You could test ICM's screw head to battery positive with a volt meter, should see full battery volts if screw is a good ground

 

RonD,

So I was able to do a compression test, used starter fluid, and pushed pedal all the way to the floor. Truck turned over for about one second, so I believe the truck is not getting fuel. I assume the injectors are good as I cleaned them and the check engine light goes off after a second of having key turned. The fuel pressure regulator is brand new and isn't leaking fuel from it, so I assume it's good. There is fuel in the brand new fuel filter, and the fuel pump is brand new.
I cleaned out the tank but didn't rub down the inside with anything after rinsing it with water. I also put back in the gas that I had in the tank before draining it. Any chance this could be part of the issue?
I am mostly assuming there is bad fuel pressure somewhere...the fuel rail has no fuel coming out of the bleeder valve when I push it...
Fuel pump turns on as I hear it buzzing, so I assume the pump and fuel relay are good.

 

Cycle the key on and off a few times until you see pressure/fuel come out the test port on fuel rail

Fuel pump can run and not pump fuel, although that's an unusual failure mode

In a 1994 and earlier you can use a jumper wire to turn on fuel pump full time with key on
1994 and earlier will have an OBD1 test connector in engine bay

Look here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...ry/OBD_I.shtml

2nd drawing shows the connector and the Fuel Pump slot is labelled
If that slot is GROUNDED then fuel pump relay will close and send 12v to fuel pump when key is on
So put a jumper wire in that slot and Ground it or connect it to battery Negative
Turn on the key
You should hear the pump running
Now check test port for pressure/gasoline

If doesn't hurt the pump to run this way, it runs full time when engine is running, and it can't over pressurize the system because there is a fuel pressure regulator

 

Maybe I'm doing this wrong...

I tried to do it as described! Not sure if I've got the wire in the right spot? Anyway, tried starting the truck, still just cranking. I cycled the key several times before turning all the way as to build up some pressure in the lines. Nothing. So gave it another 6 cycles, then went to the fuel rail to test pressure at valve, NOTHING...not even a drop... so I'm guessing either I didn't do this wire hook up correctly or else something else is the culprit??