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  #26  
Old 01-09-2016
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  #27  
Old 01-09-2016
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  #28  
Old 01-10-2016
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Reads like mechanical stuff is normal.

Since it is newer parts I would pull off the quick disconnect at the slave, should be easy.
This seals off the master, so pedal should be rock hard, no give at all, if it gets hard but then does go down a bit, you are feeling the air compressing, then there is air in the Master, or the hose going down, it is a judgement call so can't be more specific on what it should feel like.

You should bleed the system afterwards but that won't get rid of air in the master because of its angle.
Bench bleeding needs to be done with the master basically upside down because of its mounting angle, air can remain in the line and then slowly work its way up to the master, the high point, as that happens the slave will have less and less travel, so pedal engage/disengage gets closer and closer to the floor.
There is no way to bleed this air out, without removing the master or removing the push rod and the masters C-clip so piston can come up and release any air inside.

I did find this but never tried it:

From what I think I know about this system, this might get some air out of master but not sure it would get all of it.


I know it is a pain when clutch isn't working well, but no need to bend or break stuff, shut off engine, put trans into 1st or reverse, then start engine.

Ranger clutch system works fine when all the parts are good, so if there is air in the system then it wasn't all bleed out, or you have a leak.
The leak point sucks in air when you let out the pedal.

Last edited by RonD; 01-10-2016 at 10:34 AM.
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  #29  
Old 01-10-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonD View Post
Reads like mechanical stuff is normal.

Since it is newer parts I would pull off the quick disconnect at the slave, should be easy.
This seals off the master, so pedal should be rock hard, no give at all, if it gets hard but then does go down a bit, you are feeling the air compressing, then there is air in the Master, or the hose going down, it is a judgement call so can't be more specific on what it should feel like.



You should bleed the system afterwards but that won't get rid of air in the master because of its angle.
Bench bleeding needs to be done with the master basically upside down because of its mounting angle, air can remain in the line and then slowly work its way up to the master, the high point, as that happens the slave will have less and less travel, so pedal engage/disengage gets closer and closer to the floor.
There is no way to bleed this air out, without removing the master or removing the push rod and the masters C-clip so piston can come up and release any air inside.

I did find this but never tried it: ford ranger easy clutch bleed - YouTube

From what I think I know about this system, this might get some air out of master but not sure it would get all of it.


I know it is a pain when clutch isn't working well, but no need to bend or break stuff, shut off engine, put trans into 1st or reverse, then start engine.

Ranger clutch works fine when all the parts are good, so if there is air in the system then it wasn't all bleed out, or you have a leak.
The leak point sucks in air when you let out the pedal.
I had a small town mechanic put the stuff in. If theres air in the lines couldn't i just take it back to him to fix?
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  #30  
Old 01-10-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonD View Post
Reads like mechanical stuff is normal.

Since it is newer parts I would pull off the quick disconnect at the slave, should be easy.
This seals off the master, so pedal should be rock hard, no give at all, if it gets hard but then does go down a bit, you are feeling the air compressing, then there is air in the Master, or the hose going down, it is a judgement call so can't be more specific on what it should feel like.

You should bleed the system afterwards but that won't get rid of air in the master because of its angle.
Bench bleeding needs to be done with the master basically upside down because of its mounting angle, air can remain in the line and then slowly work its way up to the master, the high point, as that happens the slave will have less and less travel, so pedal engage/disengage gets closer and closer to the floor.
There is no way to bleed this air out, without removing the master or removing the push rod and the masters C-clip so piston can come up and release any air inside.

I did find this but never tried it: ford ranger easy clutch bleed - YouTube

From what I think I know about this system, this might get some air out of master but not sure it would get all of it.


I know it is a pain when clutch isn't working well, but no need to bend or break stuff, shut off engine, put trans into 1st or reverse, then start engine.

Ranger clutch system works fine when all the parts are good, so if there is air in the system then it wasn't all bleed out, or you have a leak.
The leak point sucks in air when you let out the pedal.
Theres also a method where pulling out the master cylinder plunger under the dash until it spews out fluid. Is this any good?
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  #31  
Old 01-10-2016
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If mechanic didn't do it right the first time then really up to you if you want to take it back.
But if it will be free, then another set of eyes on the problem wouldn't hurt.

Yes, there is a video on how to bleed master in place, never tried it.
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  #32  
Old 01-10-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonD View Post
If mechanic didn't do it right the first time then really up to you if you want to take it back.
But if it will be free, then another set of eyes on the problem wouldn't hurt.

Yes, there is a video on how to bleed master in place, never tried it.
When i pump the clutxh a dozen times it temporarily is fixed, but shortly after the problem comes back
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  #33  
Old 01-11-2016
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Originally Posted by RonD View Post
If mechanic didn't do it right the first time then really up to you if you want to take it back.
But if it will be free, then another set of eyes on the problem wouldn't hurt.

Yes, there is a video on how to bleed master in place, never tried it.
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  #34  
Old 01-11-2016
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whenever i had this (annoying) problem with the '97 i slipped into 3rd or 4th and then back to 1st.. worked every time...
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  #35  
Old 01-12-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonD View Post
Reads like mechanical stuff is normal.

Since it is newer parts I would pull off the quick disconnect at the slave, should be easy.
This seals off the master, so pedal should be rock hard, no give at all, if it gets hard but then does go down a bit, you are feeling the air compressing, then there is air in the Master, or the hose going down, it is a judgement call so can't be more specific on what it should feel like.

You should bleed the system afterwards but that won't get rid of air in the master because of its angle.
Bench bleeding needs to be done with the master basically upside down because of its mounting angle, air can remain in the line and then slowly work its way up to the master, the high point, as that happens the slave will have less and less travel, so pedal engage/disengage gets closer and closer to the floor.
There is no way to bleed this air out, without removing the master or removing the push rod and the masters C-clip so piston can come up and release any air inside.

I did find this but never tried it: ford ranger easy clutch bleed - YouTube

From what I think I know about this system, this might get some air out of master but not sure it would get all of it.


I know it is a pain when clutch isn't working well, but no need to bend or break stuff, shut off engine, put trans into 1st or reverse, then start engine.

Ranger clutch system works fine when all the parts are good, so if there is air in the system then it wasn't all bleed out, or you have a leak.
The leak point sucks in air when you let out the pedal.
The mechanic said that he would look at it again. Seeing how the master often traps bubbles, couldn't you just inline the front of the truck really high and bleed the traditional way? That way the master cylinder would be angled up, and the bubbles would come out.
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  #36  
Old 01-12-2016
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Originally Posted by 420stackz View Post
The mechanic said that he would look at it again. Seeing how the master often traps bubbles, couldn't you just inline the front of the truck really high and bleed the traditional way? That way the master cylinder would be angled up, and the bubbles would come out.
Also if i had a leak wouldn't it get worse and worse until i could not even get into gear at all?
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  #37  
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  #38  
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You are spending alot of time wondering about what could cause this and the system is too simple to do this much "wondering".


Front bumper of the truck would have to be hanging from the ceiling to get the enough up angle on the master, so no, raising the front of the truck a little won't help.

You can pull out the master and turn it so line is at the top and bleed it that way.

You said it WAS getting worse, so could be a leak, but you should see fluid leaking somewhere.
Have you felt around the lines and master, also checked bell house?
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  #39  
Old 01-12-2016
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Clutch

Quote:
Originally Posted by RonD View Post
You are spending alot of time wondering about what could cause this and the system is too simple to do this much "wondering".


Front bumper of the truck would have to be hanging from the ceiling to get the enough up angle on the master, so no, raising the front of the truck a little won't help.

You can pull out the master and turn it so line is at the top and bleed it that way.

You said it WAS getting worse, so could be a leak, but you should see fluid leaking somewhere.
Have you felt around the lines and master, also checked bell house?
There is air in the line
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  #40  
Old 01-12-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonD View Post
You are spending alot of time wondering about what could cause this and the system is too simple to do this much "wondering".


Front bumper of the truck would have to be hanging from the ceiling to get the enough up angle on the master, so no, raising the front of the truck a little won't help.

You can pull out the master and turn it so line is at the top and bleed it that way.

You said it WAS getting worse, so could be a leak, but you should see fluid leaking somewhere.
Have you felt around the lines and master, also checked bell house?
Theres no leaking fluid. Resevoir is full. It got worse up to a point then stopped getting worse. I can pump the pedal a bunch and temporarily restore proper function
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  #41  
Old 01-12-2016
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DORMAN CC649031 - Master/Slave assembly
LUK 07140 - Self Adjusting clutch kit

These were the components that were replaced, bought on RockAuto.com, as well as the rear main seal, clutch fluid and transmission fluid. I was wondering if anyone had any
reviews they wanted to throw in.
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  #42  
Old 01-13-2016
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Originally Posted by scott1469 View Post
There is air in the line
Couldnt i attach rubber tubing to the vleeder valve, open it, and force fluid up into the slave? And continue pumping it in until the resevooir overflows up top then close it?
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  #43  
Old 01-13-2016
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There is a check valve in the master on the reservoir hose connection, when you press the pedal(master) down the check valve closes so all fluid goes to slave.
If that wasn't there then fluid would flow up to reservoir and you would have no slave movement at all.

When pedal(master) is up all the way check valve allows fluid to flow in if required.

You could do reverse bleeding like they do for brakes, that is what you described, but it wouldn't clear any air from the master because of its angle.

You would get a container of fluid and put it on the fender, so higher than reservoir.
(Hydraulic fluid is very very corrosive to paint, so protect any painted surfaces.)
Have a long enough tube to reach from container to slave bleeder, tube needs a snug fit in bleeder and needs to stay at the bottom of fluid container.
Start siphon on the tube and slip it on the slave bleeder when there is no air in the tube.
Open bleeder.
Watch at reservoir for fluid to start rising

You may have to lift container up higher to start the flow, then bring back down.
Never tried it on a clutch system, works fine for brakes if you have just changed master or brake lines near master.
Otherwise it is better to pedal bleed slaves after changing pads or shoes since all the air is at that end.
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  #44  
Old 01-14-2016
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Originally Posted by RonD View Post
There is a check valve in the master on the reservoir hose connection, when you press the pedal(master) down the check valve closes so all fluid goes to slave.
If that wasn't there then fluid would flow up to reservoir and you would have no slave movement at all.

When pedal(master) is up all the way check valve allows fluid to flow in if required.

You could do reverse bleeding like they do for brakes, that is what you described, but it wouldn't clear any air from the master because of its angle.

You would get a container of fluid and put it on the fender, so higher than reservoir.
(Hydraulic fluid is very very corrosive to paint, so protect any painted surfaces.)
Have a long enough tube to reach from container to slave bleeder, tube needs a snug fit in bleeder and needs to stay at the bottom of fluid container.
Start siphon on the tube and slip it on the slave bleeder when there is no air in the tube.
Open bleeder.
Watch at reservoir for fluid to start rising

You may have to lift container up higher to start the flow, then bring back down.
Never tried it on a clutch system, works fine for brakes if you have just changed master or brake lines near master.
Otherwise it is better to pedal bleed slaves after changing pads or shoes since all the air is at that end.
Im having the mechanic rebleed today. Should i tell him to unbolt the master from the pedal and pull the fluid out the master inside the cabin to purge the air from the master, then traditional bleed? Or will he have to remove the entire system? I need my truck tomorrow and cant leave it overnight, and i wont get to the mechanic til late afternoon......just looking for adcice here.
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  #45  
Old 01-14-2016
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There are only 3 bolts to remove the master, one on the pedal and two that hold master to firewall, then twist and it comes out.
Yes, he should know to to that, but reminding him wouldn't hurt.

And you have to unbolt reservoir, forgot that part
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  #46  
Old 01-14-2016
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Originally Posted by RonD View Post
There are only 3 bolts to remove the master, one on the pedal and two that hold master to firewall, then twist and it comes out.
Yes, he should know to to that, but reminding him wouldn't hurt.

And you have to unbolt reservoir, forgot that part
Would the best efficient way to get the air out of the master be to pull the plunger out from inside the cab so it overflows? Im looking for a job that can be done in an hour or so
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  #47  
Old 01-14-2016
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If you have small hands and good eyes, then go for it, I have neither :)
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  #48  
Old 01-14-2016
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Originally Posted by RonD View Post
If you have small hands and good eyes, then go for it, I have neither :)
Mechanic bled clutch. He said grease came outta the bleeder. He said the grease comes packed in the slave, and that it should help. It did help. Feels normal again.
Anyone ever hear of grease in the slave or bleeder valve?
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  #49  
Old 01-14-2016
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Never heard that one before, no, no slaves, clutch or brake, come with grease inside.
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  #50  
Old 01-15-2016
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well he said that grease came out of the bleeder when he cracked it.
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