I just bought a 2001 Ranger. It's an extended cab 4x4, base model from what I can tell, automatic transmission, 4.0 SOHC motor, not sure which rear end or gearing. I just bought it, don't know much about the history, but it runs and drives great for a truck with 209k miles on it.

My question is this: what kind of maintenance would you do to make sure this truck is good to go for at least another 50-100k miles? Fluids, hubs, axles, transmission, etc. It's not a daily driver, just a weekend truck for pulling my boat and going hunting if that makes any difference...

 

1. hi there! I am new here and may not be able to talk to some of the specifics but I have a 1996 ranger that was bought brand new by my grandpa and passed down to my dad to me so I know it's whole history and at 225,000 miles it runs great with the occasional issue or two. What keeps my car running is always the regular oil and fluid check ups that I make sure to do as the dealer requests (either by miles or months I keep this up to date.). Ford does a pretty cheap oil and tire rotation combo ($60) and I trust them since they use the right products for the car. They also check breaks and other car functions as part of the oil change and for repairs that need attention I take to a mechanic for a better deal. Some advice is to keep an eye out for common ranger issues. Mostly if you just do regular check ups you should be in good shape. I'm sure other members here can advise better than I can. :)

 

one last piece of advice that I learned early on. Sometimes old Rangers need transmission fluids replaced and some places will talk you into a flush. I was specifically told for older models of rangers do not do a flush as the new fluids could do damage to the old parts which you would then be fixing hoses and all kinds of things. A simple transmission fluid change is fine but a flush is rarely ever needed.

 

Welcome to the forum

Make sure you have or add a 2nd transmission cooler, best $60 you will ever spend
Automatics are killed by heat, 2nd trans cooler is required, period, lol.
hauling a trailer or load would also require this but any automatic will last longer with 2nd trans cooler

have front and rear differentials serviced
2001 and up Rangers used Live Axle, so front axle is always locked and spinning when front wheels are, 2WD or 4WD was just in transfercase.
Shift transfercase into 4high, then 4low then back to 2WD once a month, don't have to move the truck, just shift it, that will keep shift motor working.
If electric shift motor is inactive for months and months it may not work when you actually NEED 4WD

1997 to 2004/5 4.0l SOHC engines had bad timing chain tensioners, the two that caused the most problems can be changed with engine in the vehicle.
If your engine has a rattle at startup or above 2,500 RPM then it may be to late and timing chains will need to be replaced, engine needs to be pulled out for that.
If you have no rattle then plan on changing these if they haven't been changed already.
The newer design tensioners last

The 4.0l SOHC also had a thermostat housing leak issue, so keep an eye on coolant level
PCV hoses had a tendency to leak on the under side of elbows, rub and wear thru, you get rough running and a CEL(check engine light) with a Lean code

You can get info off the drivers door tag, read here: Ford 7.5 & 8.8 Inch Axle Tag & Door Codes

This is axle ratio info, Ranger 4x4s usually had "posi-traction"/limited slip rear axles

The VIN is on this tag, you can often get a Service history from a Ford Dealer, using the VIN, but may not after 15 years old, service history may tell you if timing chain work was already done, it was a known issue by 2001 and may have been a warranty repair

You should have 5R55E automatic in 2001 Ranger 4.0l

 

Awesome info, much appreciated! I found my axle code, and turns out I've got the 8.8" with limited slip and 4.10 gears.

 

Might already have 2nd trans cooler then

4.10 was often used in the "Trailer Package" option, which included heavy duty bumper and hitch, trailer light plug in, 2nd trans cooler, and 4.10 rear axle
But 4.10 could be optioned separately

Whenever you change the oil in the differential you need to use an Additive for the limited slip, a friction modifier, or you can buy the oil with it already added.
Front differential will be Open type, so doesn't need the additive but doesn't hurt it to use that type of oil either.
So you only need one type of oil to top either up, the one with the friction modifier

 

I changed the oil with Mobile 1 synthetic 10W-30 with a premium filter, changed plug and wires, new fuel filter, new transmission filter, changed differential fluids, and changed 2 u-joints. It runs really good. It doesn't do great on MPG's, I guess the lower gears is the culprit. I'll take it though since it's a weekend truck and not my daily driver. I'm really loving it so far, I'll be pulling my boat to the river a couple times over the next few days...