However, next to the hood switch (to pop the hood), there's a ...well a series of wires linked into what looks like a scanner interface card for a computer printer. The wires go into the back, and the front is like a small series of tiny holes- cm tall and about 2 inches wide.

However, it doesn't seem like anything can be plugged in to bypass anything...

I'm so frustrated. Last nice day of the year, I'm going to lose my truck if it gets towed.

I'm begging for help here.

 

I do appreciate your time and effort, Rev, but the manual you gave me, on page 226....nothing matches with mine... And I don't have a volt meter.

In fact, I can't find this inner 'kick panel' mentioned at all. As described above, there's a small interface showing right next to the hood switch (to open the hood), but it doesn't look like I can stick in anything to jump. It looks like only the piece that size would fit it.

I'm so ready to give up, but I can't....

argh.

 

The relay panel you're looking for isn't gonna be where you can see it just looking at or under the dash. It is INSIDE the dash. Take a look at your gauge cluster. Now look to the right of your gauge cluster. You see that little space in between your gauge cluster and your radio bezel? It's behind that. To get to this relay panel, you have to disassemble your dash. This includes removing the radio bezel and radio, gauge cluster, lower dash trim, and possibly even lowering the steering column. Maybe then you will be able to see it. The relay box is only about 4" long and 2" wide. It's attached to the dash wiring harness behind the dash, hence why it's inside the dash.

 

The panel in question that needs to be removed to gain access are shown below:



and



Once removed, look to the right towards the center console area and you should see the relay box.


.

 

This is for a '97 F-150 but should be similar: http://www.justanswer.com/ford/77pc3...-f150-xlt.html

 

*Sigh of relief*

Okay. Thank you guys. I haven't finished my task, but now have a better understanding of where to look. I apologize for my embarrassing lack of knowledge, and greatly appreciate your patience.

It went from 60 degrees outside yesterday to -5 today...But now when it warms up a little I have a better understanding of what I'm looking for.

This area sounds difficult/tenuous to get to-I hope I don't need any strange tools to get to it.

So, now the million dollar question: Do I find and short out the dark green/purple wire when I get there?

Or per rev's advice, put a jumper cable between two terminals? I'm afraid I still don't really understand this method, as I'm not sure what I'll be using to jump it, and where exactly to plug in the ends-I don't have a volt meter, and the diagram Rev posted wasn't clear on what terminals "1" and "3" are...

A few people have said to simply cut the wire and ground it out....If I can get this panel off and get to wire, I'm thinking of trying that. I can always butt the ends back together with a wire clamp (bridge, w/e).

Again, I appreciate the kindness of those who have taken time to offer help. This is one of many issues in my life that are overwhelming right now.

I'll better look into how to get this panel off, and where exactly this green/purple wire is.

The terminal jumping thing still confuses me a bit, but I do understand the concept.

 

So in this picture, it isn't visible yet, correct?

I think I thought you meant to use a jumper cable on that rectangle-shaped interface above your brake in the picture.

So there is another set of relays that can be removed, that are located to the right of my gas pedal (in that area)? If so, and I removed the starter interrupt relay there, how can I determine what 1 and 3 are to jump without a volt meter? Also, what exactly should I use to jump them? 16 gauge? 8?

Also, what are your thoughts on the green/purple wire and cutting it to short it? Will this also work?

I'm grateful beyond the amount of words anyone really wants to read for your patience and help. I know how tedious it can be to explain something to someone who isn't 'getting it'.

But, now I do know where to go for the right area...just not 100% on what to do there. =/

Thank you again.

 

Thank you for stepping in. So it's that far in?

Rev's picture shows the one big panel being removed, and said it's there to the right..

Do I really need to take out the radio and what sounds like the rest of the truck?

His post made it look like a simple removal of one panel and finding it down to the right, and your post sounds like I need to disassemble quite a bit to get to this relay panel... Pardon my confusion, perhaps you or someone could clear this up?

Also, this is the panel I remove a relay from to jump terminals 1 and 3?

Or where I can find a green/purple wire to cut and ground against metal?

:

if I seem like I'm nuking this, sorry. At the same time, I think we can all agree this isn't an easy area to access. It's parked on the street so I have cars constantly driving by while I'm digging around-I'm still waiting for a cop to show up. Got all my info out and ready while I'm out there just incase.

:

 

No strange tools needed.

You wont find the green/purple wire behind this panel. Its located behind the panel by the E-Brake. Its connected to the door switch. I cant speak on whether grounding this wire will work or not. If it does work, it probably will no longer work in your case since the anti-tamper switch on the ignition key cylinder was destroyed.

You just need a small jumper like you have in the fuse box. You MUST JUMP TERMINALS 1 & 3. If you can not get hold of a volt meter and positively identify which terminals are which then I'd recommend against going any further. Blindly jump terminals is just asking for trouble.

Do not go cutting wires and blindly grounding them out....You're just asking for trouble!!!

 

Thank you for your advice and the time you gave to give it. I really appreciate it.

You're right; I need to be careful, and I think you're right about the 'shorting' not working, because the ignition cylinder was destroyed, and the two things attached to it (for the life of me I haven't a clue what they are) dangle now, uselessly.

I surmise that their role in the anti-theft isn't arbitrary, as parts never are.

I guess I didn't know what to do with the new cylinder I bought, because neither connector seemed to affix properly to it.

I'm in over my head.

I can't afford a mechanic, but it sounds like that might be the only way to get it moving now. They'll surely tow it before long.

Life lesson: Don't let people 'help' you if it involves tools that are used for breaking.

*sigh*

However, I will try very hard to find my way to either a volt meter, or a way to determine which terminals are 1 and 3. Other than a volt meter, is there a way to know which ones are 1 and 3?

 

I just went out and looked at my spare dash wiring harness which has the in-dash relay panel. The relays themselves are numbered. There are very tiny numbers next to each terminal. The relays will only fit into the relay panel one way. So you have to find the #1 and #3 terminals on the relay, and then see which slot they plug into. Keep track of which is which, and those will be the two terminals you jump.

I have no idea which relay will be the starter interrupt relay since I only have the manuals for an 02 and 03, which are different. My spare dash harness is from a 99, and that might not even be the same as your truck.

 

I hope mine are numbered...Tomorrow I finally get a chance to check. I can't believe what a nightmare losing my key has become. What I really want to know is what the two parts in the pictures are, and if they're relevant to my problem.

That's okay, I still really appreciate you joining the conversation. I finally worked up the courage to call on the Ranger community for help, and while I have gotten a few ideas, I still feel like I'm stuck in the mud.

I...I don't even know how to get the damn kick panel off yet. Yes, I'm embarrassed.

 

Okay, I just googled 'remove kick panel to bypass terminals'

The top two replies were this page and then nothing really similar.

=/

I finally have a nice day out and time, so I'm going to try to get this thing open and look for these 'terminals'.

As for which starter interrupt I'm supposed to remove before jumping 1 and 3, I'm not sure if it's in the same location or a different one.

Could anyone clear this up for me? I can't believe it hasn't been towed by now, so I really have to get it moved...also have to change a tire now, so I really need to make sure I can even start it.

idk...I'm sure this thread is already an eyesore as it is..

 

Didn't he say that the starter interrupt had to be removed, and then 1 and 3 jumped?

Is it even one of those two? By that I mean is the S.Interrupt even in 1 or 3 to begin with/isn't it a separate place entirely?

I don't have an ohmmeter, so if I can really follow the numbers like that easily then it should be no problem.

But I'm not sure where exactly this starter interrupt is (which location, not which slot. I don't even know which one it is.)