Hi Guys, This is my first Ranger Forum post. It is my first truck. 2004 sonic blue flairside. 4x4 XLT
I have started the process for replacing my bed which is rusted out. I bought another bed and it is being painted as we speak.
Any help is appreciated.
a couple of questions:
Any advise on removing the old bed. It looks like six bolts and a wiring harness disconnect. Anything else?
should I buy new bed mounting bolts?
Do I need body mounts?
Any other parts I should replace while I have the bed off.
any other things I should do while it is off.

thanks for your help.

Larry

 

6 bed bolts, wiring harness for brake lights, and 3 bolts for the gas filler tube.

5 of the bolts are pretty easy access. The bolt/nut closest to the gas tank can be a pain because the nut is nestled between the frame and the tank. You may have to drop the tank or cut the bolt to remove it if it's stripped.

If the bed is rusted out, there's a good chance the nuts and bolts are rusted too (or they will break during removal). Here's a link for a new set:

Take a good look at the gas filler tube, hose, and breather hose. The tube is prone to rust and the hoses can dry-rot and crack. Edit: I got mine from Filler Neck Supply Co. https://www.fillernecksupply.com/ Just make sure you get the correct one for your bed style because there is a difference.

Have a buddy help you lift the bed off.

As far as other things to check: leaf spring shackles and hangers, brake lines and fittings, frame condition (would be a great time to clean and rust-proof), fuel filter. Basically anything that you couldn't see with the bed on should be inspected and replaced as needed.

 

Don't forget your fuel tank filler neck and vent lines. Good idea to inspect those lines while the bed is off. As for replacing the bed bolts, there's no technical reason to replace them unless they are rusted to crap. No need for mounts either the bed doesn't have mounts like the cab, it's bolted right to the frame.

 

Yes, the 6 bolts that hold the bed on are T-55 torx, and they can be hard to get out.

If you stop by a shop they can often loosen them with a impact driver if you don't have one, pay cash and it will only be a few dollars.

If you get stuck, buy a few Reverse Drill bits in different sizes
Use a Reverse-able drill and start with smallest bit to drill out the bolt
Because you are using reverse direction the bolt will often loosen up and start to turn from the vibration and as the drill bit bites into the bolt.
Worse case is you drill off the head and pull the bed, then remove whats left of the rusted out bolt.

And since the bed is no good anymore...............you could cut it out around a stubborn bolt and pull off the bed and then deal with that bolt when you can see it better

LMC Truck also has bed bolts, same bolts were used on all Ranger from 1983 to 2012
Seen here, lower right: Truck Parts and Truck Accessories

2 front bolts are longer than the 4 rear bolts

 

Thanks for the help, bigdavyp,
I appreciate the quick response.

 

Thanks Ron,

 

I forgot

Also inspect rear leaf spring hangers, front ones as well
Pickup trucks get rusted out rear hangers, not a Ranger thing, any pickup trucks do this
If they look OK then clean them up as much as possible/practical and repaint, to slow any further rusting

If they are rusting out then change them with bed off, hangers are not too expensive but a pain to change with the bed on.

 

Thanks for the help, guys. I was planing on wire brushing the frame and using a couple cans of rust incapsulator. Then give it a coat of Krylon. Getting under it everything seems pretty solid.
I believe that water got under the bed liner. That is what caused it to rot out.

 

No problem.