Well I get it’s not a race car but when I press my gas pedal the throttle hesitates for a moment. As if catching its breath then goes as no issue. I’ve replaced my spark plugs fuel injectors, tpms, maf, iac, fuel filter, installed a cold air intake now still has the issue. Is it maybe a vacuum leak? Had a leak down test done but mechanic says there’s no leak. Unfortunately I wasn’t there so I won’t know. New fuel pump installed. Put zip ties on the throttle cable since it had slack issue still there. Replaced temp sensor and radiator. My truck is a 05 with a 3.0 v6. I just don’t understand what’s going on if anyone can check out the video I’ll be linking and help I’d really appreciate it cuz I’m stumped at this point. This issue isn’t prevalent when the truck is first started infact response is perfect hit the gas instant response. When it’s up to operating temperature is when the throttle hesitation occurs.

https://youtube.com/shorts/HotE4jIdu88?feature=share

also*
when truck is idling it’s really abrasive rpm’s fluctuate on occasion when at operating temperature I’ve never seen this before nor have I found any videos that can allude to the issue.
take notice when u watch this video the rpm’s drop for a second then kick up.

https://youtube.com/shorts/1U5C43AI1sA?feature=share

 

Operating temp is when the computer stops using Factory air/fuel mix tables and starts to use the O2 sensors and other sensors for better economy, just FYI

Another FYI, O2 sensors are the ONLY sensors that wear out, they use a chemical reaction to detect oxygen and then just run out after 100k miles or 12 years which ever comes first, not your problem, just saying after the miles or years you are burning extra fuel so costing you $$$$ well before it would set a code

You need to get an under $20 Bluetooth OBD2 reader
You can then see what the Computer "sees" from the sensors when you "step on the gas"

To check for vacuum leak, warm up the engine and let it idle
Unplug the 2 wire connector on the IAC Valve
RPMs should drop, engine may even stall, either is GOOD, means no vacuum leak
If RPMs don't drop then you have a vacuum leak

What you describe is a classic symptom of a bad "accelerator pump", but only carburetors have those, lol
It was replace on fuel injected engine's with the TPS(throttle position sensor)
The TPS gives the Computer a "heads up" to add more fuel instantly so there is no stumbling when more air is added, MAF sensor is way to slow to do that
New TPS doesn't really help unless you can SEE what its telling computer
Should show 16 to 19% throttle closed, 90-93% throttle wide open, its what the OBD2 reader can show you

PCV Valve, change it, and do it every 3 or 4 oil changes
PCV Valve can act like a vacuum leak, especially when you step on the gas
Inside there is a weighted valve that is HELD CLOSED by higher engine vacuum, like at idle, when you step on the gas vacuum drops and so does that valve but just a bit, if its sticking or dropping all the way it can cause issues
Dirty PCV valve can't move at all until engine warms up, oil clogged, oil has to heat up again, lol

EGR system, its not used until engine warms up
Unplug the vacuum hose on EGR valve and plug the hose with a screw/bolt
Try a test drive after warm up and see if things improve