General Ford Ranger Discussion General discussion of the Ford Ranger that does not fit in any other sub-forum.

Ranger starts but need to give it gas

  #1  
Old 12-31-2018
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Location: Mount Vernon, WA
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Icon4 Ranger starts but need to give it gas

Hi there fellow ranger lovers,
Im having a huge problem with my 2000 Ford Ranger, it randomly doesn't want to start. It definitely wants to start and struggles to start for a couple seconds while ignition is turned to start position then when I think its just not going to start and stop trying to start it, that's when I realize that it is "started" but is sputtering and isn't running very well and will in fact die after about two seconds. I will say that I have noticed it will start as long as once I realize it is sputtering and struggling that if I give it gas it will stay running, although I am also aware that I shouldn't need to do that. Also I wants to stall for the first minute or two after starting it if I'm on a hill. Now please keep in mind this is not every time that I start it, sometimes it starts like a champ. I have run out of gas in it recently, so that, paired with the fact that it seems to not be getting enough gas leads me to believe that maybe the fuel pump is on its last leg, or perhaps that maybe because its not every start that it could be the fuel pump relay. Also I should point out that it also seems to have run out of gas at an eighth of a tank and has never done that before either, so I'm also not sure if the gas gauge is off or if the pump really has been dying for a little while. Please help! Thank you,
Sam
 
  #2  
Old 12-31-2018
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Welcome to the forum

2000 Ranger
There were 3 different engines offered in 2000 Rangers, 2.5l, 3.0l, and 4.0l, which do you have?

With fuel injection there is no longer a "gas" pedal, it's an "air" pedal now, or throttle pedal, lol.
But still called a gas pedal for simplicity sake
On the throttle linkage is the TPS(throttle position sensor), it "tells" computer what the driver wants to do, go faster or slow down, it has no connection to fuel system, just the computer, before engine starts computer ignores TPS unless it is at WOT(wide open throttle), then it turns OFF fuel injectors, lol, another story.
So opening throttle or pumping gas pedal on startup just adds more air
(On carb engines it did add more gas)

So you need to add more AIR for better startup not gas, that would point me at IAC Valve or ECT sensor

Fuel injected engines all use an Air Valve for startup, Ford calls theirs the IAC(idle air control) valve
When you turn on the key computer boots up and it will open IAC Valve all the way for startup
The computer sets the air/fuel mix based on engine temp for startup, Cold engine needs more fuel for start up(choke mode), warm engine less fuel, computer gets engine temp from ECT sensor

When you start any fuel injected engine it should REV to 1,500-1,8000rpm because IAC Valve is open all the way, then start to drop to "engine temp" idle, 1,100cold, 750warm, this is done but computer closing IAC valve to set idle RPMs.

Since you need to add air for start up I would check your IAC Valve it may be sticking.closed
IAC valve looks like a can on its side and has a 2 wire connector, if we knew engine size we could tell you were it is
It will be on the upper intake next to throttle
Held on by 2 bolts
Remove it
Hook wires up to it you took them off
Turn on the key
Look inside at the valve and unplug the wires, valve should move closed, then plug wires back in and it should move open, it doesn't move much but does move
They can be cleaned with carb cleaner or similar degreasers
Article here: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums...-w-pics.84220/


ECT sensor, these are not expensive so you can just replace it on spec
But there are TWO temp units on the engine, ECT sensor and ECT SENDER
ECT = engine coolant temp

The SENDER is only used for the dash board temp gauge, can't effect engine operation, Sender uses a RED/white stripe wire

ECT Sensor uses light green/red stripe wire


Failing fuel pump could cause startup issues, but its more likely to cause higher speed issues as engine gets starved for fuel, start up and idle are the lowest fuel demands on a fuel pump
So possible if engine can't run well at even medium speeds
 
  #3  
Old 12-31-2018
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Thanks for explaining so well Ron. I am almost 100% positive that I have a 3.0. Also would this maybe make sense because I was also having issues for a while where the I would come to a stop, or be coming to a stop, and my truck would rev like crazy, like I had my foot on the clutch and was hammering down on the "gas" pedal lol. Recently I told my brother about this and he suggested that I clean the throttle body because he thought that maybe it was gunked up and getting stuck. I did clean that valve out and ever since then, and this was months ago, I haven't had this problem at all, and now within the last month or two this started happening. But now I guess I'm wondering if you think it's possible that it could've been the IAC valve all along? Sorry about the questions, I just like to learn while I'm learning lol if that makes sense.
 
  #4  
Old 01-01-2019
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Hi Sam, I'd look for:
- Intermittent vacuum leak ( in order to cause a non starting condition, it would have to be a BIG leak. Something like the brake booster or its hose or multiple leaks that add up. Intake manifold gasket could to but is unlikely if its intermittent)
- IAC dirty or not operating properly
- Low fuel pressure during the non-start times. (running fuel low on an old car can cause gunk to plug up a fuel filter)

Here are some things you can do yourself to help figure this out:
1. Before starting the engine.... turn the ignition on but don't start the engine for about 3 seconds. (this helps to prime the fuel injectors. If this makes it significantly better.. change the fuel filter)
2. Disconnect the battery negative terminal. Turn on the ignition. Turn on the headlights. Turn off both. Reconnect the battery. ***turn ignition on (don't start engine) and then floor the throttle twice*** (this clears KAM and re-teaches the engine ECU the full range of throttle)
3. Look for vacuum leaks. (google / youtube methods how to do this)
4. Remove and clean the IAC with throttle body cleaner and an old toothbrush
5. Clean the throttle body w/throttle body cleaner and an old toothbrush.

If all those have been done and there is no improvement... your going to need a more in depth diagnose. IMO the next places to look are crank position sensor, MAP sensor, or bad fuel pump. (not sure if your engine has a crank position sensor?)

Regards, Rich
 
  #5  
Old 01-01-2019
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Thanks Rich I will definitely have to try all of these. Iíll let you know the outcome

Originally Posted by wydopnthrtl View Post
Hi Sam, I'd look for:
- Intermittent vacuum leak ( in order to cause a non starting condition, it would have to be a BIG leak. Something like the brake booster or its hose or multiple leaks that add up. Intake manifold gasket could to but is unlikely if its intermittent)
- IAC dirty or not operating properly
- Low fuel pressure during the non-start times. (running fuel low on an old car can cause gunk to plug up a fuel filter)

Here are some things you can do yourself to help figure this out:
1. Before starting the engine.... turn the ignition on but don't start the engine for about 3 seconds. (this helps to prime the fuel injectors. If this makes it significantly better.. change the fuel filter)
2. Disconnect the battery negative terminal. Turn on the ignition. Turn on the headlights. Turn off both. Reconnect the battery. ***turn ignition on (don't start engine) and then floor the throttle twice*** (this clears KAM and re-teaches the engine ECU the full range of throttle)
3. Look for vacuum leaks. (google / youtube methods how to do this)
4. Remove and clean the IAC with throttle body cleaner and an old toothbrush
5. Clean the throttle body w/throttle body cleaner and an old toothbrush.

If all those have been done and there is no improvement... your going to need a more in depth diagnose. IMO the next places to look are crank position sensor, MAP sensor, or bad fuel pump.

Regards, Rich
 
  #6  
Old 01-01-2019
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Happy New Year

The IAC Valve is what the computer uses to set the idle RPMs, so yes if it sticks open then RPMs will be high, or if it sticks closed engine can stall or not start

The throttle body has the throttle plate, the TPS and the IAC Valve attached
Yes, if the throttle plate can't close easily by its spring then RPMs will be high, there is a hole in the throttle plate to allow some air in and the throttle body can get dirty so cleaning it is good to do

2000 3.0l will have a 18 year old IAC Valve, this is a moving part so can wear out unlike sensors which usually don't wear out.
IAC is a solenoid with a spring inside, the computer adjusts the volts(using its ground wire) to pull open the valve against the spring pressure holding it closed, this method is super accurate to set RPMs, +/- 3rpms is normal
I would pull off the IAC valve and test it by plugging in its wires and unplugging, key needs to be on



An idling engine is a BIG polluter so on most vehicles the computer will keep RPMs above 1,000 until Speedometer is below 5MPH, with an automatic most don't notice this, but on a manual it is noticeable
Also on a manual the computer will keep RPMs high when above 5MPH and shifting gears
This is done using IAC Valve, and totally Normal

Just a heads up that this type of higher RPMs is not the sign of a problem



Air is what causes engine RPMs to go up, not fuel
If you add more fuel to an engine you get a flooded engine
If you add more air you get higher RPMs, thats the point of the Throttle Plate controlled by the gas(air) pedal, to let in more air

If you don't add more fuel with the extra air you still get the higher RPMs and then a Lean mix
This is why a Vacuum(air) Leak will cause higher RPMs
 
  #7  
Old 01-11-2019
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: catonsville , md
Posts: 19
hard start

Interesting and useful post by Ron. This forum and his posts are very good I have the same problem I need to put ľ a cup of gas on the air filter to get a quicker start. not fast but quicker. I have read as many posts as I can find, replaced the IAC, idle air, ECT eng colent temp, , checked continuity for both , checked gas pressure, The OBD showed an ECT of 116 to 165 degree F with cold eng 32 deg. I work outside as my garage is full. Replaced computer with a rebuilt, still hard start and ECT still high. It acts as though the computer isnt enriching the start gas. Im going to look at ECT connection, ohm meter showed ok to computer cant rember if I checked ground but I can read 20,000 ohms at computer pin 38. same as on 3 other ECT senders out of eng. As a further note this is a 2005 ext cab, 3.0 eng from hurricane Sandy, Its in really nice physical condition. I got it at a good price because it was titled salvage until washed in Md, been through 5 dealers, 5 states, 6+ owners / carfax. I have found over 14 electrical problems and several major mechanical issues mostly from rust and salt water. The eng seems to have been replaced ,dosent burn oil and almost no blowby. This one has me stumped, however I have little else to do, at 88 im not hire-able.
 
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