Just bought a 2010 with 11k mikes; now what?
#1
Just bought a 2010 with 11k miles; now what?
I was looking for a low mile, reliable truck to get my three kids through high school and to keep up the yard on Saturday’s. I stumbled across a state fleet vehicle that only 11k miles on it. I snagged it quickly and hope it will do the trick. It’s a 2.3L 4x2 and I have the maintenance records for the last 10 years, which are pretty comical. It got an oil change and tire rotation every 6 months almost to the day, which equates to 400-800 miles. What should I be aware of with this vehicle? What special care does an older car with not much use need? Thanks for your advise on my first post...
Last edited by Lrothey; 10-20-2019 at 02:16 PM. Reason: Spelling
#2
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Welcome to the forum
Reads like a good find
Not much to do, it may have some leaks show up if you use it as a daily driver, when vehicles sit as much as this one did seals and gaskets dry out
You have a 2.3l DOHC Duratec engine, its a Mazda L engine, it was originally designed for transverse mounting in cars, there is a coolant line on the back of the head that can only be changed/fixed, if you remove the transmission
Good reliable engine
You have a 5R44E automatic trans, or an M5OD-R1 is manual trans, BOTH use ATF, yes both
2010 and 2011 Rangers had rear disc brakes
Reads like a good find
Not much to do, it may have some leaks show up if you use it as a daily driver, when vehicles sit as much as this one did seals and gaskets dry out
You have a 2.3l DOHC Duratec engine, its a Mazda L engine, it was originally designed for transverse mounting in cars, there is a coolant line on the back of the head that can only be changed/fixed, if you remove the transmission
Good reliable engine
You have a 5R44E automatic trans, or an M5OD-R1 is manual trans, BOTH use ATF, yes both
2010 and 2011 Rangers had rear disc brakes
#3
Wet transmission
Overspray
Some build up up front but not wet
I crawled under to see if I could see any leaks and sure enough I think I have an output seal leak. There is ATF sprayed on the bottom of the truck and the back of the transmission is wet. Can the pictures confirm this is my issue?
#4
I'd also check out all the shocks and bushings since they can deteriorate in a vehicle that sits. Should check them out anyway since it's almost 10 years old. The leaks you found don't seem too bad right now. Think of it as free rust prevention at this point. If you start seeing them get worse (drips) then I'd start to plan on fixing them, but that's how I roll. I check fluids often.
#5
I'd also check out all the shocks and bushings since they can deteriorate in a vehicle that sits. Should check them out anyway since it's almost 10 years old. The leaks you found don't seem too bad right now. Think of it as free rust prevention at this point. If you start seeing them get worse (drips) then I'd start to plan on fixing them, but that's how I roll. I check fluids often.
Speaking of rust...I do have quite a bit on the drive train, control arms, springs, and frame. Is there anything I should do to mitigate the problem?
#6
I actually tested some of that Rustoleum rust converter spray and it worked well so far. Knocked any dirt or loose stuff off with a wire brush and then gave it a good coat. I got the flat black. It's technically a converter/primer but I haven't done a top coat yet. I guess something like Corroseal or equivalent would work too. I hope to replace my OE Ujoints soon so will probably spray the rear drive shaft when it's out. I may just spray the front while its in as I spin it by hand. This is actually my fall project.
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