Hardest tricky diagnosis I've delt with ever ​​​I've had many many posts about this mess of a truck on here and have diagnose fixed things that I thought had alot to do if not the main cause.
Went thru spark testing replace almost everything as far as sensors. Two very pronounced issues that are key to the symptoms is flooding while running and running rich and wont start after turned off .
I have great spark and overly great (Rich)fuel .
So.. I tested the equality between all 4 injectors and get no idle drop from cyl1 . I change cyl 1 injector still no idle drop . The fpr is new the vaccum lines are all new this wouldn't be a vaccum issue when I get a perfect start and then no start every time it runs and shut off . Today I cranked cranked forever let it sit still no start decided to pull fuel relay and it started right there told me it's building fuel up in one or all cylinders during running and then leaving unburnt fuel and worsening the situation at cranking. Clear flood mode isn't working via default method (Gas pedal method ) that is the key evidence and I can not understand why . See I have to manually remove fuel flow/pressure by removing the fuel relay . So what else could be causing the flood during trying to start as well as flooding during running .I can't get any notice in idle drop when I pull Injector#1 plug even after a new Injector.

Maybe ecm trucks a 94 2.3L I put a used 93 ecm in it same old situation

 

Clear Flooded engine requires TPS(throttle position sensor) to send computer 4.5volts to 4.9volts at WOT.
Put something heavy on the gas pedal, or stick to seat, to hold it at WOT
Then go to engine bay and see if you can manually open throttle a little more, if so Google: Ranger Throttle cable Mod
You have a stretched throttle cable


Anyway, test #1 injector wires, key on 1 wire will have 12volts, the red one
The other wire should be "open" not a Ground, HIGH ohms between that wire and engine metal, or 0 volts if you hook volt meter to both wires
If its low ohms then injector will leak fuel out with key on
Unplug large connector on computer, retest that wire, if its now HIGH ohms then problem is IN the computer, computer circuit is grounding that wire when it shouldn't
If its still low ohms then problem is that wire is shorted to ground somewhere between computer and that #1 injector

If #1 injector wire is shorted to ground then Clear Flooded engine wouldn't help

 

Can you tell me the expected save ohm values I should see on the ground at the lowest being a issue and highest with the computer harness off so I know that I can rule out the short wire or computer if it's actually neither .

 

There should be NO CONNECTION to Ground, and that can be different on different ohm meters and different ohm scales
A connection is 0 to 5 ohms usually, again it depends on the meter
A slight shorted connection might show as under 100ohms, i.e. internal short in computer, like a "working" relay or solenoid might show 30 ohms, it's still short to ground

I would test #2 or #3 injector Ground wire and use that as the Benchmark for what you should see on #1 ground wire

 

I got 0.00 volts when I tested both red 12v and tan terminals on#1 and high ohm reading from the ground on harness with key on . So I didn't try the test with the computer harness pulled .
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Here's what's strange and I'm again getting weird psi readings I did a dry compression test tonight finally found a good 14mm adapter prior to the test I wanted to make sure the cylinders were dry (NO FUEL) So I pulled the fuel relay and figured I'd crank let it run off any fuel rail gas and then perform the test believe it or not after I pulled the relay the truck still tried to start never actually starting but firing trying to start no matter how long I waited or cranked over the engine. I found that to be weird so then I unplug all 4 injector plugs and eec relay and I got no firing at all ? So I assume ok the gas must be gone (dry cylinders)
What does that say about fuel still trying to fire the truck when the fuel relay is pulled and it's not just firing the remaining flooded cylinder that doesn't fire its like it tries to fire like it is still Injecting or leaking in with absolutely no fuel pump pressure .

So my compression test is off again like 65 psi in cyl1 145 cyl2 110 cyl3 and 155 cyl4

But cyl 1 is so far off in psi and that's the cyl that will not injector balance test correctly . I don't know what to do to ensure the cyl is dry before testing or if all the cylinders are actually being over fueled during running or engine off

BTW all the plugs looked good (The same) and were dry before I pulled them for the test . So the plugs do not look fouled even cyl1 plug looks good (NO GAS)
But the truck is flooding during operation and upon restart it won't start randomly until I pull the fuel relay it attempts to 🔥 FIRE UP (little enough fuel to actually burn off the flood ) Then I put relay back in and it starts but always runs rich with Motor visually missing/stumble but if you trigger throttle it revs like a normal motor .So many clues that don't back up not one theory yet 😵
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I do not believe there is one issue with any of the Injectors themselves infact the one I changed I bet it was fine. It's so complex 😡
All I know is the truck starts when it sits overnight and even if I shut it off and let it run briefly and it will restart . Where it won't restart I could never get it to until I found the trick of pulling the fuel relay cranking it for 5 seconds ( attempt to start ) (assumeburning off unspent fuel ) then pop back in the relay .

 

Whatever the restart trick I'm doing to get I to fire is also the reason it's running rich and rough .
with the odd compression results I really can't just yet say it's literally worn rings cause there's a fuel dump issue and excess fuel will yield bad compression results . See where my dilemma is .

 

Your compression test tells the tale, 2.3l should be 165+ PSI on cold dry test, 1994 2.3l runs 9.4:1 compression ratio
Compression is needed to vaporize the gasoline
Gasoline can't be ignited by a spark, yea the movie guys take liberties, lol
Only gasoline vapor can be ignited by a spark, and you need about 30% vapor in a cylinder for full ignition to happen, compression is HEAT, so higher compression is needed to vaporize at least 30% of the gasoline mix

Once cylinder fires a few times it can start working again at higher RPMs, cylinder heat vaporizes the gasoline
So your engine is flooding out simply because it can't vaporize the gasoline the computer is adding, cold engine gets very RICH mix, "Choke mode", all gasoline engines need to be "choked" when cold, choke just means RICH fuel mix to get above that 30% mark of vapor needed, but that assumes higher compression to heat up the gasoline

Other cylinder should fire once warmed up but #1 wouldn't until RPMs were higher, at idle it would misfire

I wouldn't waste your time on anything else until you find the reason for the low compression

Do a WET test now and see if #1 comes up above 120psi, if not then Rings are probably OK its the valves that are the issue

 

It's just time for a reman motor been looking don't seem to find any luck with even a good running used 2 3 and I'm not sure 89-92 would work in a 94

It's like 1500 for a long block with 0 miles

 

1989 to 1994 long block will work
1995-1997 will not work, 2.5l lima will not work

You will swap over your intake and exhaust, also accessories

1989 and up have roller rockers in rangers, mustang 2.3l didn't until 1991, mustang 2.3l long block can also be used

The 2.3l Lima engine was first used in 1974 Pinto, so often called "the pinto engine" there were not many changes in it over its 27 year life

Read about it here: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-guide.317117/

And here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Pinto_engine#2.3_(LL23)

Lots of Ford used these engines over the years